There are break-in instructions somewhere. I found this quote from Mark in one of the threads:
"1 - First 100 hours, use low volumes like hotel lobby background music levels. You can easily hold a conversation without raising you voice. Don't use any music with a heavy beat. Sweet vocal, gentle Jazz, any music that's easy listening will suffice.
2 - 100 to around 300 hours, gradually introduce some music with beat/bass and carefully increase the volume to "entertainment" levels. You can still hold a conversation by slightly raising your voice. Don't go nuts, give this process time. Remember, most (if not all) full range drivers aren't big "rock un rollers"."
And this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/248199-driver-break-questions.html
jeff
"1 - First 100 hours, use low volumes like hotel lobby background music levels. You can easily hold a conversation without raising you voice. Don't use any music with a heavy beat. Sweet vocal, gentle Jazz, any music that's easy listening will suffice.
2 - 100 to around 300 hours, gradually introduce some music with beat/bass and carefully increase the volume to "entertainment" levels. You can still hold a conversation by slightly raising your voice. Don't go nuts, give this process time. Remember, most (if not all) full range drivers aren't big "rock un rollers"."
And this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/248199-driver-break-questions.html
jeff
The Madisound site says 20 hours of low level listening and then increase from there gradually.
I'm also currently breaking mine in, but haven't finished my FH MK3 boxes yet, so I'm listening to one raw and the other in a cardboard box. They are beginning to open up nicely.
As for enclosures, the cardboard box was a prototype I used for a pair of FE126e's that I built for my daughter. 6"x12"x12" internally, with the back folded up to make an internal baffle like the FH. It isn't scientifically designed, it was just something I did with a box that I had and it sounded pretty good, better than raw anyway.
I'm also currently breaking mine in, but haven't finished my FH MK3 boxes yet, so I'm listening to one raw and the other in a cardboard box. They are beginning to open up nicely.
As for enclosures, the cardboard box was a prototype I used for a pair of FE126e's that I built for my daughter. 6"x12"x12" internally, with the back folded up to make an internal baffle like the FH. It isn't scientifically designed, it was just something I did with a box that I had and it sounded pretty good, better than raw anyway.
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Hello all, I had these Alpair7.3s playing since friday 24 7.. using foam to hold the driver still, rolled up foam stuff and now a corrugated box 8x8x10 set up Br... and in every way they command u to pay and stay attention... cant wait to hear them perform in a properly made enclosure...... wow Dan
To repeat myself - I've heard the 7.3s in at least half a dozen enclosures, and if you have the floor space, the FH3 would be my recommendation for "best" balance of performance in a single enclosure, and WAF, followed by the Pensil.
Now, if you can afford the space for multiple enclosures for "FAST" type etc, the permutations multiply exponentially - along of course with cost
.
Now, if you can afford the space for multiple enclosures for "FAST" type etc, the permutations multiply exponentially - along of course with cost
.Several candidates for bass support of the 7.3s come to mind - but there are probably 2 questions to ask first
- are you limited to floor space, and need to incorporate into same footprint area (i.e. isolated compartment within same cabinet)?
- how would you plan to XO / power them?
We've done probably half a dozen variations on this theme with MA or other brand drivers. Passive is always an option, but at the lower frequencies that we most commonly use ( no higher than 330Hz) the component values and cost gets a bit steep. Indeed, with the silly cheap prices these days on class D amps (sub $150 range fully assembled) PLLXO and active bi-amping might not cost much more, and the ease and flexibility is generally worth every extra penny. Of course, if you already have something like minidsp, or higher end computer sound card with XO capabilities, you're already ahead of the game.
Our most recent experiment is actually with the A7P (a slightly different flavor than the .3) and dual A12PW - more support than absolutely necessary, and I'm using the digital XO/Bi-amp feature of my Onkyo receiver - sure convenient
- total budget?
OK, that's 3
- are you limited to floor space, and need to incorporate into same footprint area (i.e. isolated compartment within same cabinet)?
- how would you plan to XO / power them?
We've done probably half a dozen variations on this theme with MA or other brand drivers. Passive is always an option, but at the lower frequencies that we most commonly use ( no higher than 330Hz) the component values and cost gets a bit steep. Indeed, with the silly cheap prices these days on class D amps (sub $150 range fully assembled) PLLXO and active bi-amping might not cost much more, and the ease and flexibility is generally worth every extra penny. Of course, if you already have something like minidsp, or higher end computer sound card with XO capabilities, you're already ahead of the game.
Our most recent experiment is actually with the A7P (a slightly different flavor than the .3) and dual A12PW - more support than absolutely necessary, and I'm using the digital XO/Bi-amp feature of my Onkyo receiver - sure convenient
- total budget?
OK, that's 3
I tend not to build anything with which I wouldn't want to live ( OK, I'll admit more precisely, that wouldn't pass the Suze test) - so, no nothing in the way of a line array. - and the few that I have heard didn't enthrall me sufficiently to attempt to surmount the aforementioned.
After 43yrs, not much mounting happening there at all ,
If by chw70, you mean the little CHBW70 "mid woofer", I do have a Castle Microtower style MTM with those and a now obsolete ERT26 dome tweeter that Mark built for Bob Reimer - nice little driver.
The new CHN70 is not quite as refined as the equivalent sized Alpair - in either metal or paper, but at $27 USD a piece is an outrageous bargain AFAIC - Mark will likely sell tons of these - and frankly I don't think they need any further fiddling with.
- of course when did that stop us from suggesting changes, or Mark trying to accede to those requests?
If all your amps have - or can easily be fitted with volume controls, while maintaining overall level control, you could well get by with a much simpler passive line level XO
TLS.org | Passive Line-Level Crossover
After 43yrs, not much mounting happening there at all ,
If by chw70, you mean the little CHBW70 "mid woofer", I do have a Castle Microtower style MTM with those and a now obsolete ERT26 dome tweeter that Mark built for Bob Reimer - nice little driver.
The new CHN70 is not quite as refined as the equivalent sized Alpair - in either metal or paper, but at $27 USD a piece is an outrageous bargain AFAIC - Mark will likely sell tons of these - and frankly I don't think they need any further fiddling with.
- of course when did that stop us from suggesting changes, or Mark trying to accede to those requests?
If all your amps have - or can easily be fitted with volume controls, while maintaining overall level control, you could well get by with a much simpler passive line level XO
TLS.org | Passive Line-Level Crossover
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The late Terry Cain was a big fan of alder as I recall.
Drivers under $100pr? As in wideband speaker drivers? Loads to choose from, so depends what you want to be doing (?). Fostex, MA, Tang Band, Dayton, Vifa, Audio Nirvana etc. all have units within that price bracket. In general I'd suggest that when budget is limited you're better off buying the highest quality small driver you can rather than going for size, but since this depends very much on what you intend to use them for, it's far from being a hard & fast rule.
Drivers under $100pr? As in wideband speaker drivers? Loads to choose from, so depends what you want to be doing (?). Fostex, MA, Tang Band, Dayton, Vifa, Audio Nirvana etc. all have units within that price bracket. In general I'd suggest that when budget is limited you're better off buying the highest quality small driver you can rather than going for size, but since this depends very much on what you intend to use them for, it's far from being a hard & fast rule.
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