We have yet to go thru the entire Peerless catalog. The 930869 appears to be the 8" version of the 4 we have found useful. Vas is high, it may not be possible to fit these into enclosures anywhere near as small as the SDX7 -- we have the same issue with the 4", but it works well in ML-TL, ML-V.
The fibre part of the SDX7 (i'm not convinced it is CF) is a PITA. Before an SDX7 is useful this needs to be bounded together with puzzlecoat (usually 3 coats). Far too easy to accidentially get some on the voice coil gap.
dave
The fibre part of the SDX7 (i'm not convinced it is CF) is a PITA. Before an SDX7 is useful this needs to be bounded together with puzzlecoat (usually 3 coats). Far too easy to accidentially get some on the voice coil gap.
dave
Like many of the Al cone drivers, it has a hugely ugly peak up high. That really needs dealing with (and a notch is just a band-aid). A coat of puzzlecoat might well be useful here, and maybe a steeper than 1st order XO.
dave
That will allow a steeper XO, but i'd still try attacking the source of the problem with some mechanical fixes.
dave
Cheers againPuzzlecoat... have some Microscale Micro Gloss [& Clear Gloss Acrylic medium] to hand, but also just read ModPodge is very similar product, which I also have
Acrilic is acrilic, modepodge is PVA. I use both. modepodge as a pre-treat onp apercones, gloss acrilic after EnABLing (all cones)
I think the characteristics of PVA better suit for damping AL.
dave
Thanks for the recommendations
Thanks Dave (and Chris) for the suggestions, will read thru those. I'm new to building speakers, so still trying to figure out how to go about choosing designs to build (w/o spending a lot of time and money on experiments).
My original goal was to try and build an OB full range, having listened to an acquaintance's OB setup (although his was waaay more complicated). The added sub/large woofer would be to relieve the FR from the significant power requirements for OB bass. Figured I would train my ears on the coherency and sound stage of decent FR speakers, before attempting something more complicated with multiple drivers.
Think I have the understanding that A10 probably doesn't have enough high frequency range for full range. So I will probably build the A10s into some closed box design, and save the sub for a different project.
Dan
Thanks Dave (and Chris) for the suggestions, will read thru those. I'm new to building speakers, so still trying to figure out how to go about choosing designs to build (w/o spending a lot of time and money on experiments).
My original goal was to try and build an OB full range, having listened to an acquaintance's OB setup (although his was waaay more complicated). The added sub/large woofer would be to relieve the FR from the significant power requirements for OB bass. Figured I would train my ears on the coherency and sound stage of decent FR speakers, before attempting something more complicated with multiple drivers.
Think I have the understanding that A10 probably doesn't have enough high frequency range for full range. So I will probably build the A10s into some closed box design, and save the sub for a different project.
Dan
Were plans with dimensions ever published for this design?
Here is what i mean... this is the one with the 3.5 litre bass enclosure.
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL/downloads/miniTysen-0v7-map-200509.pdf
You could substitute Alpair 5 or 6 or a 3" HiVi or a TB or ...
dave
Correct link: http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/miniTysen-0v7-map-200509.pdf
Looks like it got moved up a folder.
dave
Looks like it got moved up a folder.
dave
This project research was inspired by a pair of DIY Boenicke W5s I saw on FB, carved out of solid oak. this design did have a long curved internal port which flared to the back.
I am pretty far from understanding all the terms and math involved in cabinet design.. but this does seem important....
Also, the small bullet shaped sub enclosure in the W5 is also way smaller than the chamber in the design Planet10 posted earlier. Is there an ideal volume for this chamber?
I am thinking either the Fountek FR89EX or the original FE85.
I am still deciding many aspects of the project, especially the electronics. The minidsp active XO is appealing, but adds a lot to the cost. A 2.1 tripath amp is probably more practical, but I have not found the right one yet.
Any advice?
Colin
I am pretty far from understanding all the terms and math involved in cabinet design.. but this does seem important....
Also, the small bullet shaped sub enclosure in the W5 is also way smaller than the chamber in the design Planet10 posted earlier. Is there an ideal volume for this chamber?
I am thinking either the Fountek FR89EX or the original FE85.
I am still deciding many aspects of the project, especially the electronics. The minidsp active XO is appealing, but adds a lot to the cost. A 2.1 tripath amp is probably more practical, but I have not found the right one yet.
Any advice?
Colin
Attachments
It's probably not out of turn to suggest that as a general topology, with appropriate revisions to suit T/S parameters, any combinations of your favorite - or ready at hand- FR drivers and mid woofers could work well in this configuration. I of course have a couple of my favorites - including even the polka dots, but I'm not about to be dogmatic one evangelical about them.
I'm eager to try a set of these with the option for both passive speaker level XO and active bi-a ping . Sooner or later I may even need to invest in mini-DSP nano or some such.
It's just been a bit hectic for me lately, and I'll be away from the shop for at least another week and half.
I'm eager to try a set of these with the option for both passive speaker level XO and active bi-a ping . Sooner or later I may even need to invest in mini-DSP nano or some such.
It's just been a bit hectic for me lately, and I'll be away from the shop for at least another week and half.
Colin -even with access to a CNC capable of that depth of cut, such a fabrication from sold wood of any species could be tricky.
As for 2.1 tripath, or similar amps, I think the limiting factor would the quality and flexibility of the XO filter circuitry. Personally I'd always be inclined to external amps and XO, or at least something like the mini-DSP and plate amp systems - not inexpensive though, and sizes may also not suit a compact project.
As for 2.1 tripath, or similar amps, I think the limiting factor would the quality and flexibility of the XO filter circuitry. Personally I'd always be inclined to external amps and XO, or at least something like the mini-DSP and plate amp systems - not inexpensive though, and sizes may also not suit a compact project.
The order of release i believe is FR88ex*, then the FR89, then the el cheapo FE85 version. If the last is even close to the big brothers it is huge value.
*(we went thru 24 of those, considering them as a substitute for the discontinued FF85k, but then FF85wk came out and whooped its butt)
You need 4 channels of amplification for these kinds of speakers. 2 stereo tripaths or the newer (IMO, better) TI TPA3110 or TPA6116/6118 amps and a PLLXO (next to no cost)
dave
I have been looking at prebuilt pcb amps on Ebay, one 2.1 amp per speaker - One channel for the FR, one through a passive HP filter to the rear tweeter, and the sub channel to the side woofer.
None of the very inexpensive Chinese options has very good controls for the crossover to the sub, so I doubt any real optimized tuning is possible between the FR and the woofer. I was planning to do this by ear, as I don't have the fancy analytic microphones and software... I guess a PLLXO would be an option and probably not above my soldering skills... I think I have seen a thread on this, but it was all over my head. Or mindsp and several small mono tripath amps.
I would add a small external section to the box to hold these electronic items, all of which are pretty small.
ChrisB, the solid wood design I saw on FB was done with a drill press and a range of different radius Forstener bits going down to a uniform depth many many times until the cabinet void was turned into a huge pile of shavings.
This seems like it could be tedious and require a lot of hand cleanup with a router / dremel... But, it does look doable without CNC.
I am not sold on the solid wood idea - it is cool mainly for aesthetics which is part of the appeal of the Boenicke. (I may get access to a CNS and cut the curvy parts out of layers of plywood, which would also look cool)
I will try to get permission from the guy to post it here.
Colin
Dave - very similar product numbers - are you referring to Fostex FF85WK 3" and not Fountek drivers? I like the Fountek with the aluminum cones as this is a portable boom box project and will go outside somtimes. (I think the original Boenicke and the DIY version I saw both use Fountek FE85, but a higher performing option seems to be the FR89EX.)
Any thoughts?
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