Hey, good info guys!
I sprayed my car with transparent coating (pontiac lemans in red....) and had a few problems in the beginning (wrong substance paint to start with, can said quality this...quality that.....UV protection....outdoor use.....2two days later I polished it off like an orange peel actually....)
I finally used 'aircrafts' spray paint and can even re-do a small part of the car this way and sand-polish all the spray edges and orangepeel effects away afterwards leaving no traces whatsoever, just clear shine...(can spot something between my teeth in the reflection...)
Can post a pic of the paint container if anyone's interested....
I sprayed my car with transparent coating (pontiac lemans in red....) and had a few problems in the beginning (wrong substance paint to start with, can said quality this...quality that.....UV protection....outdoor use.....2two days later I polished it off like an orange peel actually....)
I finally used 'aircrafts' spray paint and can even re-do a small part of the car this way and sand-polish all the spray edges and orangepeel effects away afterwards leaving no traces whatsoever, just clear shine...(can spot something between my teeth in the reflection...)
Can post a pic of the paint container if anyone's interested....
jackinnj said:
I don't know which Wagner is being referred to, but this one is a favorite among hobby types and small woodworking shops..
http://www.gleempaint.com/hvcongunnew.html
If, OTOH, we're talking about the "Whirlybird" or the "Buzz-blower" types, then yes, I wouldn't bother with them.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Many automotive rubbing compounds will get rid of scratches as coarse as 1200 grit (meaning they are around 1500 to 1800 grit). You probably need to go to a finer polish. One of the 1200 grit compounds will mess up a 2000 grit sanding job, as would a coarser paper.
It's a tedious job at any rate - renting a polisher would probably be a good idea. Be sure it's a powerful one - not one of those $30 buffer/waxers sold for cars (they are fine for touch up, but won't get you anywhere when polishing) Get a couple of heads, use one for each grade.
Be careful to buff so that the head spins from the box then off the edges or you will burn through the paint easily.
It's a tedious job at any rate - renting a polisher would probably be a good idea. Be sure it's a powerful one - not one of those $30 buffer/waxers sold for cars (they are fine for touch up, but won't get you anywhere when polishing) Get a couple of heads, use one for each grade.
Be careful to buff so that the head spins from the box then off the edges or you will burn through the paint easily.
I'm sure these methods will work on guitars? For someone who has never painted anything without a roller 
what sort of base coat paints are we talking about? automotive? So the shine really comes from the clear coats, not so much the paint itself?
I knew a guy who cleaned his gun with gasoline after painting his house... the outcome was not too good! flames and melted plastic were the result!
what sort of base coat paints are we talking about? automotive? So the shine really comes from the clear coats, not so much the paint itself? jackinnj said:
I knew a guy who cleaned his gun with gasoline after painting his house... the outcome was not too good! flames and melted plastic were the result!
If you have special lack which has already pain in it, so then just use it. Othervise use paint and then lack.
I have such thing to ask:
-What do yoy guys prefer Random Orbit Sander or Palm Sander. Quality difference or smth.
Second thin is- should I get also Polisher or use hand and cloth?!
I have such thing to ask:
-What do yoy guys prefer Random Orbit Sander or Palm Sander. Quality difference or smth.
Second thin is- should I get also Polisher or use hand and cloth?!
rinx said:
Since I posted this quick guide I've further improved my own technique and now can get even flatter and more mirror like finishes:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Compare these shots to the ones on the first page and even with the camera its easy to see the difference.
To achieve this I use a small 1/4 sheet palm sander, as before, for the bulk of the flatting out. But once I've got a completely matt sanded surface I'll then move onto a stiff rubber sanding block from 3M and proceed wet sand by very carefully drawing it across the work in horizontal sweeps alternating with vertical ones. I do this about 5 times. This really does give that last ounce of flat surface uniformity to the reflection that makes a difference. Just be extra careful to not dig in with block or apply too much pressure, all you need to be doing with the block is drawing it across with the weight of your arms alone on it.
I used to do everything by hand because the buffers were quite scary after I ended up trashing a paint job on my first go. However with care they are absolutely invaluable. I would never hand buff the cutting compound stage again. To give you an idea of how worthwhile these are, that cabinet shown in the photo's above would take around 2-3 hours of hard graft by hand, the buffer does it in about 40 minutes with little effort.
Remember when your buffing by machine to keep a handy spray bottle filled with water nearby and occasionally give the buffing pad a couple of squirts to help breakdown the cutting compound.
Always do the final wax/polish by hand if possible. Finesse at this stage really shows in the final gloss. Its like those guys who do the showcars, they never use a machine buffer on their high gloss custom paint jobs.
That's a marvelous finish, I must say. At first, when studying the first picture, I began examining it closely, and noted the fact that the gutter, window frame, and sun room frame, of the house next door were not straight. My first thought was a poorly performing camera lense, or some other malfunction.
But reading further, I can clearly see that the picture was taken as a reflection from the surface of the furniture.
Anyway, congratulations on a job well done.
But reading further, I can clearly see that the picture was taken as a reflection from the surface of the furniture.
Anyway, congratulations on a job well done.
Im having a problem with my finish and am in need of some ideas..
the problem im having is with the lacquer coat,
i started with bullseye sanding sealer then sprayed sherwin williams oil based primer and paint(hand full of coats each). I primed, let dry for 24 hours then the gloss black. waited 48 hours to start the gloss.
I went with minwax brushing lacquer to give it a try..
the first coat ate through the paint and primer, crinkled up, but only in some spots and mostly on one speaker and stand while the other was fine?
I thought i must have over applied so i stripped back to mdf and repainted. started with minwax lacquer in a spray can to give it a base/protective coat. went on fine. moved on to the brush very lightly applying a coat....same ****????cracking and bubbling. its not global just in select areas? could it be a lack of primer??
the other stand i was able to apply lots of lacquer with no problem.
any ideas?
the problem im having is with the lacquer coat,
i started with bullseye sanding sealer then sprayed sherwin williams oil based primer and paint(hand full of coats each). I primed, let dry for 24 hours then the gloss black. waited 48 hours to start the gloss.
I went with minwax brushing lacquer to give it a try..
the first coat ate through the paint and primer, crinkled up, but only in some spots and mostly on one speaker and stand while the other was fine?
I thought i must have over applied so i stripped back to mdf and repainted. started with minwax lacquer in a spray can to give it a base/protective coat. went on fine. moved on to the brush very lightly applying a coat....same ****????cracking and bubbling. its not global just in select areas? could it be a lack of primer??
the other stand i was able to apply lots of lacquer with no problem.
any ideas?
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