I would like to replace the larger positive wires as in 2 spots on one of the larger wires the copper is exposed, and I am getting blue 8g OFC wire and want to know if I can use that to replace the larger red wires.
I also have green 14 gauge and I want to know if I can replace the smaller wires with that (the green 14 gauge is CCA, if the factory is OFC I will leave them)
I also have green 14 gauge and I want to know if I can replace the smaller wires with that (the green 14 gauge is CCA, if the factory is OFC I will leave them)
OFC is oxygen free copper. It's generally a very finely stranded wire that's prone to corrosion. The OFC wire that you generally see has a gold coloring through the clear insulation. All for appearance.
Also stay away from CCA.
Tinned copper wire has a tin coating that prevents corrosion. It's what's used in marine and other tough environments. It's not fancy but very good wire.
Also stay away from CCA.
Tinned copper wire has a tin coating that prevents corrosion. It's what's used in marine and other tough environments. It's not fancy but very good wire.
Tinned OFC? If it exists, I've never heard of it. OFC has generally been one of those marketing things that everyone believes is absolutely required and if you don't have OFC, you're a dullard. Just one of many articles on OFC:
https://www.wiringdepot.com/jt-t-tech-articles/What-you-should-know-about-CCA-and-OFC-Wire
OFC isn't bad but choosing OFC wire over other wire because it's OFC makes no sense. Untinned wire that's ultra-finely stranded is the worst. It may look fancy but looks aren't what's important when you need something that will last... very nearly forever.
https://www.wiringdepot.com/jt-t-tech-articles/What-you-should-know-about-CCA-and-OFC-Wire
OFC isn't bad but choosing OFC wire over other wire because it's OFC makes no sense. Untinned wire that's ultra-finely stranded is the worst. It may look fancy but looks aren't what's important when you need something that will last... very nearly forever.
I don't believe I am, I still have my 10 amp fuse and it hasn't blown.
Its more of like a chirping/cricket noise or when a CD player is trying to read a CD with a weak laser best I can describe it.
Idles at about 2.5a when the sound isn't present, bumps up to about 5a+ when the sound occurs.
Relay doesn't engage until 30-40 seconds after startup.
Its more of like a chirping/cricket noise or when a CD player is trying to read a CD with a weak laser best I can describe it.
Idles at about 2.5a when the sound isn't present, bumps up to about 5a+ when the sound occurs.
Relay doesn't engage until 30-40 seconds after startup.
Gold and silver are tolerance bands. I don't think I've ever seen either as the first band.
Ignoring those when on the end, look at the bands from the other end. These are 2k ohms. They are reading 1k because the two driver groups are in parallel.
What's the operating frequency of the supply? Check it on the base of the driver transistors or on the terminal of the 2k resistors connected to the base terminal of the driver transistor.
Ignoring those when on the end, look at the bands from the other end. These are 2k ohms. They are reading 1k because the two driver groups are in parallel.
What's the operating frequency of the supply? Check it on the base of the driver transistors or on the terminal of the 2k resistors connected to the base terminal of the driver transistor.
Some multimeters read frequency.
If your scope is relatively well calibrated and the var controls are set to the 'cal' position, you can use that to get close. Generally, with the scope set to 10us, you will see approximately 3 complete cycles on the display (see attached).
If your scope is relatively well calibrated and the var controls are set to the 'cal' position, you can use that to get close. Generally, with the scope set to 10us, you will see approximately 3 complete cycles on the display (see attached).
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