3/4" PLY FAST TL SKETCH
I'm one of the two guys in Virginia building the FAST TL speakers for XRK. The other guy is my neighbor who is doing most of the woodworking. We are building one prototype to test and then will immediately make 5 more if it all pans out. I'll post some more info and questions I have as the project goes forward. We want to get the height of the woofer's center up to around 40" so we designed a 6" base for it and then a "top-hat" on top to complete the look. We are showing the plywood edges as a design element. Here's my rough sketch of how it will look with base, top-hat & side inlay:
I'm one of the two guys in Virginia building the FAST TL speakers for XRK. The other guy is my neighbor who is doing most of the woodworking. We are building one prototype to test and then will immediately make 5 more if it all pans out. I'll post some more info and questions I have as the project goes forward. We want to get the height of the woofer's center up to around 40" so we designed a 6" base for it and then a "top-hat" on top to complete the look. We are showing the plywood edges as a design element. Here's my rough sketch of how it will look with base, top-hat & side inlay:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If you guys like the sound of the 10f (and I do), why aren't you pairing it with the matching "discovery" series woofer. Same design same voicing same timbre. Isn't that key? Same come material - critical to a consistent top to bottom tonality and overall presentation of Sound.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
The 22W/8534 woofer that is part of the same Discovery range is not as wide band as the RS225-8. The 22W/8534 starts breaking up at 900Hz and would not be as smooth of a transition as RS225.
I think the above response is not going to permit a first order crossover at 900Hz. I still think that the RS225-8 is the key driver that makes this speaker possible.
I think the above response is not going to permit a first order crossover at 900Hz. I still think that the RS225-8 is the key driver that makes this speaker possible.
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Hi - could I ask you fellows how loud you think the 10F/8424 & RS225-8 could play if both used in OB? (with the 600hz 1st order XO outlined in this thread, and a 15" active woofer meeting the RS225 at 200hx or wherever it rolls of in a 24" wide baffle)
Would the 10F or the RS225 be the limiting driver SPL wise? And would it be necessary to high-pass the RS225 to get say a clean 90db @ 2m?
Thanks
B
Would the 10F or the RS225 be the limiting driver SPL wise? And would it be necessary to high-pass the RS225 to get say a clean 90db @ 2m?
Thanks
B
It should work fine, if you recall I ran an OB experiment using a narrow 10 in baffle with a SB23 and PS95 and usual XO then augmented with bass EQ. Instead of bass EQ, a subwoofer would do nicely. Same could be done with 10F and RS225.
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
EQ looked like this:
-6dB peak at 700Hz and Q=0.60
+6dB low shelf at 250Hz
I even had a new thread but seems no interest.
OB FAST with 3.5in Fullrange and SB23NRXS45-8
It sounded very good.
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
EQ looked like this:
-6dB peak at 700Hz and Q=0.60
+6dB low shelf at 250Hz
I even had a new thread but seems no interest.
OB FAST with 3.5in Fullrange and SB23NRXS45-8
It sounded very good.
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45 OR 60 Routered Edges
The plan is to have all of the edges on the front at 45 or 60 degrees. We will do this with a router after it is assembled. I couldn't find a pic of this done with 11 ply Ballistic Baltic Birch, but these will give you an idea.
We considered doubling up the front panel to make for a deeper baffle, but it's a pain because the woofer is so close to the edge.
The plan is to have all of the edges on the front at 45 or 60 degrees. We will do this with a router after it is assembled. I couldn't find a pic of this done with 11 ply Ballistic Baltic Birch, but these will give you an idea.
We considered doubling up the front panel to make for a deeper baffle, but it's a pain because the woofer is so close to the edge.
45 degree looks good to me and is probably the best acoustically as it presents the closest thing to a roundover. But whatever you like form a visual standpoint is fine. One option is to slowly taper the bevel off near where the woofer bezel is to leave enough wood there. That will take either a steady hand or a curved guide/jig.
Isolation Speaker Feet
We have just enough room for the 45 degree but not on a double thick. Some things will have to wait for version 2.0 of these.
I just received a package from our "friends" at Amazon with these $35 Feet:Douk Audio Nobsound Aluminium Black & Silver Shockproof Spike+Pad Isolation Feet
We will drill some holes in the part without the spike and mount it on the base. I like this design because you can find your speaker position without scratching floors, then put the spike base under it. I'm probably using them upside down from the way they are designed.
Any thoughts on isolation feet are welcome and beveling baffle edges are welcome right now.
We have just enough room for the 45 degree but not on a double thick. Some things will have to wait for version 2.0 of these.
I just received a package from our "friends" at Amazon with these $35 Feet:Douk Audio Nobsound Aluminium Black & Silver Shockproof Spike+Pad Isolation Feet
We will drill some holes in the part without the spike and mount it on the base. I like this design because you can find your speaker position without scratching floors, then put the spike base under it. I'm probably using them upside down from the way they are designed.
Any thoughts on isolation feet are welcome and beveling baffle edges are welcome right now.
The spikes are meant to puncture through carpeting and reach the sub floor to give a solid mount. Then the cups are used when people aren’t using carpet. Upside down then might as well use rubber feet.
Maybe like this?
Dayton Audio DRFS1 1-3/8" x 1" Heavy Duty Rubber Feet 4 Pcs.
Or these
BLUECELL Pack of 4 pcs Aluminum Speaker Isolation Feet Pad for AMP Turntable HIFI Player Amazon.com: BLUECELL Pack of 4 pcs Aluminum Speaker Isolation Feet Pad for AMP Turntable HIFI Player: Home Audio & Theater
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I thought I saw the wood called Ballistic Baltic Birch somewhere. Maybe I'm mixing up my hobbies...LOL
I think our woodworking expert might be planning on doing a chamfer of some sort. I'll show him your photo. Thanks for sending it. If anyone else has pics of edge work on 11 Ply Baltic Birch, please post them for us. I can't find any images of a 45 Degree Cross cut or chamfer. This is the closest I could find.
I think our woodworking expert might be planning on doing a chamfer of some sort. I'll show him your photo. Thanks for sending it. If anyone else has pics of edge work on 11 Ply Baltic Birch, please post them for us. I can't find any images of a 45 Degree Cross cut or chamfer. This is the closest I could find.
Hi StudioMic. Have you visited Troels Gravesen's website? He uses a lot of baltic birch. Maybe some ideas over there? DIY-Loudspeakers
B80/RS225 FAST Test
I installed the B80 into the sports cone Dagger rear chamber stuffed with fiberglass and the front 2in lined with half thickness melamine foam. I installed a parallel 10ohm resistor to R1 for a net 3.2ohm padding resistor. This should compensate for the slightly lower sensitivity of 85dB vs 86.7dB of the 10F. The new plain BB ply baffle with the two black drivers looks pretty good actually. It was nice that all the screholes lined up. This time with nickel shoulder washers for the drywall screws.
Listening to it right now, maybe 4 tracks so far. Very nice. Very similar to the 10F actually. Will take some more time before I comment too much. Also need to measure and see if the XO is still consistent.
Sports cone Dagger lined with melamine foam and stuffed with fiberglass:
Left speaker:
Right speaker:
Stereo Pair:
Here is the impedance sweep of the B80 driver in open air (driver #1), it has fs of 131Hz and max Z of 56.5ohms:
This is the impedance sweep of the same driver in the sports cone Dagger, now doing its job since the fs is now 172Hz but the impedance has dropped to 26ohms:
I installed the B80 into the sports cone Dagger rear chamber stuffed with fiberglass and the front 2in lined with half thickness melamine foam. I installed a parallel 10ohm resistor to R1 for a net 3.2ohm padding resistor. This should compensate for the slightly lower sensitivity of 85dB vs 86.7dB of the 10F. The new plain BB ply baffle with the two black drivers looks pretty good actually. It was nice that all the screholes lined up. This time with nickel shoulder washers for the drywall screws.
Listening to it right now, maybe 4 tracks so far. Very nice. Very similar to the 10F actually. Will take some more time before I comment too much. Also need to measure and see if the XO is still consistent.
Sports cone Dagger lined with melamine foam and stuffed with fiberglass:
Left speaker:
Right speaker:
Stereo Pair:
Here is the impedance sweep of the B80 driver in open air (driver #1), it has fs of 131Hz and max Z of 56.5ohms:
This is the impedance sweep of the same driver in the sports cone Dagger, now doing its job since the fs is now 172Hz but the impedance has dropped to 26ohms:
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I'm curious about why ScanSpeak has two such similar offerings at such a different price? It would be great if we can save $30 ea and not loose anything but if the 10F is in any way better, I'll spend the money.
I think you need to get an audio rack: you're running out of bar stools...LOL
I think you need to get an audio rack: you're running out of bar stools...LOL
