Hope it’s okay to ask in this thread..
I finally bought a pair of new F-15’s - the regular ones, not the newer “Fast”. I’m going to build some open baffles for them but due to room constraints, they need to stay small. I’ll also be using a pair of subs, BTW.
My baffles are coming from a rubberwood (?) table top that someone tossed and they’ll measure 29” wide by 23 tall.
Question: will it be any problem to have these 6” wider than they are in height? I can’t imagine it will but thought I’d ask you all..
Thanks, Duane
I finally bought a pair of new F-15’s - the regular ones, not the newer “Fast”. I’m going to build some open baffles for them but due to room constraints, they need to stay small. I’ll also be using a pair of subs, BTW.
My baffles are coming from a rubberwood (?) table top that someone tossed and they’ll measure 29” wide by 23 tall.
Question: will it be any problem to have these 6” wider than they are in height? I can’t imagine it will but thought I’d ask you all..
Thanks, Duane
@MisterDK I think it's fine to talk about the brother driver on this thread, seems like the baffle issues you speak of are about the same for both. I suggest you try both orientations in your room (i.e. make the speakers "flippable" initially and listen and maybe measure if you can each way). Just thinking about it, though, the key difference is that the driver would be closer to the ground and this would cause changes in the floor interaction (boosted bass?) and cause the speaker to need to be tilted back to register with the listeners' ears (unless you use floor cushions instead of chairs). I was afraid of how beamy mine are and wanted to keep them high and perpendicular to the floor. I'm using them with swarm subs so not worried so much about thin bass provided I can DSP the bass so that the subs contribute enough without revealing their location.
Cabinet shop that I bought my birch plywood from and who is doing the woodwork for me has been busy with their usual work and my baffles have been back burnered. I have all the parts for my filter, though, and will knock those out soon
Cabinet shop that I bought my birch plywood from and who is doing the woodwork for me has been busy with their usual work and my baffles have been back burnered. I have all the parts for my filter, though, and will knock those out soon
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I have these up and running. I've been playing with them without subs for several days. I think the caps in the network may have changed slightly as they burned in from being brand new. Or maybe I'm just getting used to the sound. I might miss the highest freqs. Still calibrating, but I love the immediacy I'm getting with drums and percussion. With complex, ragged vocals like Mark Lanegan's on Black Pudding they shine. They still have bass, but it's not body penetrating. It should be, for example, with the song Earthquake by Deerhunter. On the other hand it is convincing when you bump it with very bass heavy material, such as Down the Road by C2C or I Like the Way you Move by OutKast. With subtle horns and woodwinds they're amazing. Brother Veal from Blue Interlude by Wynton Marsalis etc al., for example. Have not broken out any test equipment, tried it without the network, or anything-hope to soon. Initially I am exploring them using a bunch of different songs and enjoying them a lot!
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It wont be, not on an OB like that. Looks like you have room to add a couple helper woofers on that baffle, but if you own subs already, probably easier to experiment with Xo frequency and level to fill in the missing bottom.
OB bass works when you're at the listening position; walk away and it's gone. Closed box bass can roll along the countryside for miles. Unsure about mixing the two types in a speakers system. I went with 18" helpers on my Lii F15 OBs to improve.
Sure would look nice if you could replicate that back wall's finish on them.
Lii-Audio F-15’s. Nowhere near finished yet but I had to hear ‘em.. Yes, too close to the wall - I know. They already sound most awesome though, and with only about an hour on ‘em so far. The baffle (rubberwood) was a table someone trashed, so thought I’d repurpose it. I can’t believe the clarity and detail coming from these! Bass seems great too but likely because they’re close to the wall.
Anyway, I should have bought a pair of these long ago..!
Anyway, I should have bought a pair of these long ago..!
Cool, @MisterDK, that might be a great setup to have them against that brick and with that tilt for the bass! When I move mine away from the wall they open up but my wife does not like them sticking out in the room and I see why. I need to figure out something for the bases soon to make the sliding easier.
@jjasniew, I want to finish them in a dark wood to be close to the trim and thing the TV and equipment sits in but with black bases. Aniline dyes with French shellac over top. Something I never dipped into when I was a contractor so I wanted to check it out. I stripped that wall down to the scratch coat and waxed it-original 20's plaster.
Finally got around to some tests today and the network that was supposed to tame the 5k peak does not seem to be doing much. Resistors were both set at the same value as the network by Steve Deckert/Decware described earlier in the thread. The plots shown here are of the right speaker with and without network and the third is of the left speaker with the network. I guess I was wrong to assume the resistance value he defined would be approximately right for my needs, although I think it should be the same value whether you're using a flea watt tube amp or a modest solid state amp like my F5. Right? I didn't drag the speakers outside to test but the mic is very close to the driver and on axis (see pic)
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@drjlo , it seems to be a trait of this wacky driver, also visible in post 152 of this thread where Deckert talks about fiddling with the network. His scaling is more generous, though https://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb22/YaBB.pl?num=1658916276/155
I'm going to play with the Muse DSP in Roon (I mainly stream Qobuz) and see if that helps tame these suckers. I know, cheating. First I plan to get these passive networks dialed in, though. I'm hoping they weren't a waste of effort.
I'm going to play with the Muse DSP in Roon (I mainly stream Qobuz) and see if that helps tame these suckers. I know, cheating. First I plan to get these passive networks dialed in, though. I'm hoping they weren't a waste of effort.
Quick update with some charts to show measurements at different distances from the driver to come. Work and travel is getting in the way. For now I can report that the network I recreated earlier in the thread did not work for me. I had a 0-100 ohm Vishal resistor in the circuit and tested the full range of values (the target value was supposed to be 36 ohms). Using values up to the top end started to tame the peak at 5k but caused an unacceptable suck out around 3k. I abandoned using them and did it all with the Muse DSP built into Roon with the help of my audio engineer friend. With the subs filling in the low end (dual preamp outputs, one into a mini DSP for the subs), the Fast 15s are really sounding great! Also boosted the highs a bit. To me the speakers do not sound good naked, or with the network, but as they are now in my room they are amazing.