You're welcome!
Hmm, based on your drawing you'll need to subtract the baffle thickness to get the correct cut length.
Looking forward to your listening impressions as it didn't get shortened as much percentage wise as I assumed based on my own builds, but then mine were all done on [very] large cabs with [very] large vents tuned much lower, so maybe makes a difference; not having any math back then I did it by trial and error.
GM
I don't see why it would. Can you explain?
The highs would be slightly louder buit I don't hugely mind that. I can always switch out the attenuation network in my crossover if I need to further decrease it. Or do you have a suggestion on what to change in it.
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mmm...is it really that different? Bit more top end? You'd be able to hear it... I wouldn't
I think it's about 3-4db more in some places.
I guess I should clarify. A modified XO would be required to get the "best" integration/sound from the switch. Due to Q and impedance differences, but with that said you may be able to switch them and not notice the difference, or it may be a difference you can't stand.
I would not say they are a drop-in replacement, but they would be close with some additional resistance to bring them down 2-3 db.
I would not say they are a drop-in replacement, but they would be close with some additional resistance to bring them down 2-3 db.
So what do you suggest I really do then? Wait for the Aluminium dome tweeters?
If the RS28F is in stock and you want to get them sooner, order them. I like the A better, but you might not agree with my taste.
You can use the same XO (after your question and my reply - I have read threads saying it IS and ISN'T a drop-in) and adjust the tweeter level down 2-3 db to match the RS180. Just put a resistor in series before the tweeter XO section, buy 3-4, 10-watt resistors of different values (1, 2, 3 and .5 ohm) and you can vary the level to your taste by combining these to get up to 5.5 ohms (should be plenty of padding).
You can use the same XO (after your question and my reply - I have read threads saying it IS and ISN'T a drop-in) and adjust the tweeter level down 2-3 db to match the RS180. Just put a resistor in series before the tweeter XO section, buy 3-4, 10-watt resistors of different values (1, 2, 3 and .5 ohm) and you can vary the level to your taste by combining these to get up to 5.5 ohms (should be plenty of padding).
I agree with you on the A model. The silk dome one is nice but the A is such a near perfect metal dome. I've asked for them to split my order into two with the binding posts and tweeter that are on backorder in the latter.
I'm really impressed by how professional and caring LSF has been. They've been exchanging out-of-stock parts for in-stock more expensive ones and they apologized. They paid for the expenses. That's about 10 bucks of cheating in finances. c:
Just looking at specs and long experience with alum. dome [horn] mid/tweeters and a few silk dome, etc. [super] tweeters, both can be made to sound virtually identical, but in this case the silk is boosted in the 'sibilance'/'definition'/'pierce' bandwidth, so tends to sound sibilant, more detailed, brighter top end 'air' than the typical buttery smooth alum.; with the trade-off that if one has tinnitus or other hearing problems like me can sound anywhere from mildly irritating to run screaming from the room [every titanium dome I've auditioned], so alum., phenolic, certain plastics or well damped cloth suffices for us.
IME, young folks in general prefer the greater HF detail, etc., and females in particular with their superior HF hearing only if not too 'sharp', so for you, just swapping out initially and only attenuating it as required if need be should suffice and if you want max top end 'air' with/without extra attenuation, then parallel with a bypass cap [R/C network] to let the extreme HF > ~12 kHz through unattenuated.
GM
That's helpful haha.
If I want to have the best possible flat response though without needing bodges or mods, I should take the aluminium domes right? this one has a really out of range resonance.
maybe the silk dome one sounds better because it's not original but with an EQ I can do that too on the aluminium one if I were to want it at some point, right?
Correct.
You can, but due to the way alum. domes are made/finished, all you're doing is boosting its break-up modes bandwidth [BW], so can negate some of its damping properties, making them sound 'harsh'/'strident', so really need for someone that has them to comment about how they sound EQ'd to match the silk's response. Note too that alum. domes can work harden over time, so long term may not be the best choice if EQ'd and/or fairly often driven hard.
GM
You can, but due to the way alum. domes are made/finished, all you're doing is boosting its break-up modes bandwidth [BW], so can negate some of its damping properties, making them sound 'harsh'/'strident', so really need for someone that has them to comment about how they sound EQ'd to match the silk's response. Note too that alum. domes can work harden over time, so long term may not be the best choice if EQ'd and/or fairly often driven hard.
GM
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The speaker assembly is rated 70w rms, and the tweeter is 100w rms. I suppose it's only gonna get 20 ish watts at max.
How long are we talking till they might sound out of place? I'm worried if I go with another driver I won't be getting the quality I was hoping for.
As long as they dont sound like Skytec horns, I bet I'll be okay with the rather flat sound.
No way to know without all the design details that only the manufacturer will have and even then it requires testing to know for sure. My SWAG though is that if you don't drive them to audible distortion, then it's a moot point, but due to the way we hear and the alum's material properties, too often we like its euphonic distortion, so in the case of a compression horn it's often considered a positive improvement in a prosound app.
Hmm, the only Skytec I found are titanium or piezo, quite the contrary to 'flat' without significant EQ and some diaphragm damping, so pretty sure even the silk dome will sound 'smooth' in comparison and the alum. maybe downright dull.
FWIW, the best of both IME and some others is Beryllium, but too pricey for most folks and the few speaker systems I built specifically for women ultimately swapped them for 'Maggies': Magnepan
GM
Hmm, the only Skytec I found are titanium or piezo, quite the contrary to 'flat' without significant EQ and some diaphragm damping, so pretty sure even the silk dome will sound 'smooth' in comparison and the alum. maybe downright dull.
FWIW, the best of both IME and some others is Beryllium, but too pricey for most folks and the few speaker systems I built specifically for women ultimately swapped them for 'Maggies': Magnepan
GM
Yeah, the crux of the matter is every room is acoustically different and everybody hears the same, yet not so much and some of the worst measuring speakers pretty much owns the world's consumer market, so go figure.
Bottom line to my way of thinking is you either accept JB's choice or use the silk and tweak it if need be to mimic the alum. as a potentially safer choice than maybe needing to tweak the alum. IOW, between boosting, damping an audio signal, the latter is always the better choice.
GM
Bottom line to my way of thinking is you either accept JB's choice or use the silk and tweak it if need be to mimic the alum. as a potentially safer choice than maybe needing to tweak the alum. IOW, between boosting, damping an audio signal, the latter is always the better choice.
GM
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