I've been waiting for this, welcome the objectivist Barleywater 
, and I mean that in the nicest terms possible.
Barley,
Cd source will always be cleaner, there is no doubt about that, if you are interested in the cleanest "measured" sound possible, stick to cd, digital files, etc. I have not measured, nor has anyone here I'm sure, but I've used a test record on every change, my ears, and my eyes, and yes this arm won't be suitable for ultra high compliance cartridges, that was pointed out early on.
At the same time, I and I'm sure everyone else welcome you to build this arm and measure it.
On a side note could you give detailed information regarding which linear arm this is a measurement from?, air bearing, mechanical or servo controlled, this makes a world of difference.
Colin
, and I mean that in the nicest terms possible.Barley,
Cd source will always be cleaner, there is no doubt about that, if you are interested in the cleanest "measured" sound possible, stick to cd, digital files, etc. I have not measured, nor has anyone here I'm sure, but I've used a test record on every change, my ears, and my eyes, and yes this arm won't be suitable for ultra high compliance cartridges, that was pointed out early on.
At the same time, I and I'm sure everyone else welcome you to build this arm and measure it
.On a side note could you give detailed information regarding which linear arm this is a measurement from?, air bearing, mechanical or servo controlled, this makes a world of difference.
Colin
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Measurements
Would love to see some comparative measurements. I've been following this thread for months with great interest. Not that I prefer vinyl to CD. I simply have a significant amount of vinyl that is not available on CD and would like the best possible method for transfer. The old SME 3009 in my collection is definitely "OK", but if a low-cost linear alternative could be found for the job...so much the better. Would love to see comparisons - especially of air bearing vs Cantus/hobby car bearing. Though, I realize it's difficult to minimize the variables (different carts, tables, etc.) to make the measurements really meaningful.
Would love to see some comparative measurements. I've been following this thread for months with great interest. Not that I prefer vinyl to CD. I simply have a significant amount of vinyl that is not available on CD and would like the best possible method for transfer. The old SME 3009 in my collection is definitely "OK", but if a low-cost linear alternative could be found for the job...so much the better. Would love to see comparisons - especially of air bearing vs Cantus/hobby car bearing. Though, I realize it's difficult to minimize the variables (different carts, tables, etc.) to make the measurements really meaningful.
What type of bearings are you using with your arm? Are you using dry bearings, bearings with light oil, or grease packed bearings (sealed of course)?
I received my bearings (5x9x3) which are supposedly lubricated with light oil. There is a dust shield on both sides of the bearing. Holding the bearing in my fingers it seems to move fairly freely. However when I put the bearings on the cart, they seem to be "stiff" in movement.
For each bearing pair, I am using M5 nylon screw and separating the bearings using 1mm width x .5mm heigh washers. It doesn't look like the washers are hitting the rim of the bearing, although I don't have a magnifying glass to make sure. I will attach a picture tonight of what I have setup for the cart.
Are you guys cleaning out any lubricants from your bearings?
I received my bearings (5x9x3) which are supposedly lubricated with light oil. There is a dust shield on both sides of the bearing. Holding the bearing in my fingers it seems to move fairly freely. However when I put the bearings on the cart, they seem to be "stiff" in movement.
For each bearing pair, I am using M5 nylon screw and separating the bearings using 1mm width x .5mm heigh washers. It doesn't look like the washers are hitting the rim of the bearing, although I don't have a magnifying glass to make sure. I will attach a picture tonight of what I have setup for the cart.
Are you guys cleaning out any lubricants from your bearings?
Welcome Barleywater ,
Thanks for your inputs , which are absolutely worth considering .
Altough I'm pretty certain that we will never come to a situation where we can say "this is the perfect picture" ... it is a way to confirm changes and make up our minds , asking ourself if we indeed are going somewhere better . or worse for that matter .
I'm trying to read myself through different methodes to measure and confirm the behaviour of a tonearm in action . but what is a good way to actually DO this measurings ? i.e. apropriate test rig , equipment , what to look for and more important what NOT to look for ?
Would you be kind enough to explain me ( perhaps also others here ) about how to make proper and worthwhile measurings on tonearm behaviour ?
I assume we are meant to see what's going on superposed on the Fr. respons of the outcoming signal , right ?
THX in advance ,
Paul
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I've tried a couple different bearings by different manufactures.
I've found that if I put a bearing thats sealed and lubricated on a wood pencil
and give it a spin, it doesnt perform as well as one that has the shields removed and the bearings free of all grease or oil. I've tried light hobby oil
as well, still the cleaned bearings spin much better free.
These are just my results, others have had different.
Hello lexx21
There is no need to "pop" the shields from your bearings.
Get a small glass vial and soak the bearings in a solvent that leaves no residue.
The solvent I used was designed to clean printed circuit boards and it evaporates very quickly. The closed vial keeps it liquid. I kept the bearings in the vial for several days and agitated it gently several times. Then I blew the solvent and dissolved grease out of the bearing with clean dry air (not air from a compressor)
My straight-line tracking tone arm would not work with greased bearings but after removing the grease/oil, it tracks wonderfully. The shields, not to be confused with seals, are retained by the outer race and do not touch the inner race.
Oil or grease increases the torque required to rotate the bearing.
Sincerely,
Ralf
There is no need to "pop" the shields from your bearings.
Get a small glass vial and soak the bearings in a solvent that leaves no residue.
The solvent I used was designed to clean printed circuit boards and it evaporates very quickly. The closed vial keeps it liquid. I kept the bearings in the vial for several days and agitated it gently several times. Then I blew the solvent and dissolved grease out of the bearing with clean dry air (not air from a compressor)
My straight-line tracking tone arm would not work with greased bearings but after removing the grease/oil, it tracks wonderfully. The shields, not to be confused with seals, are retained by the outer race and do not touch the inner race.
Oil or grease increases the torque required to rotate the bearing.
Sincerely,
Ralf
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What chemical did you use to remove the lubricant? A normal degreaser that you would find in the grocery store would certainly work but it is water based, so not a good idea. Gasoline would do it as well, but as was mentioned... residue.
Arch,
It's an original pressing of Abbey Rd, not badly warped but has been well loved over the years by whoever owned it.
For tests on this arm they have been fairly basic, frequency sweep through headphones and speakers, silent grooves for rumble tests and low frequency woofer pumping along with channel separation tests consisting of seperate tones L to R and multiple tones seperate frequency in each channel. Since I had modified the headshell it has diminished woofer pumping to almost nothing visible, and that is my low frequency noise test. Wih a frequency sweep and no volume using a Stethescope on the plinth you can easily find any resonance "nodes", simple, almost crude but it tells you what no sim could ever tell you. This also allows you to pinpoint where to damp and with what suitable material and where it will be most effective .
Colin
It's an original pressing of Abbey Rd, not badly warped but has been well loved over the years by whoever owned it
. For tests on this arm they have been fairly basic, frequency sweep through headphones and speakers, silent grooves for rumble tests and low frequency woofer pumping along with channel separation tests consisting of seperate tones L to R and multiple tones seperate frequency in each channel. Since I had modified the headshell it has diminished woofer pumping to almost nothing visible, and that is my low frequency noise test
. Wih a frequency sweep and no volume using a Stethescope on the plinth you can easily find any resonance "nodes", simple, almost crude but it tells you what no sim could ever tell you. This also allows you to pinpoint where to damp and with what suitable material and where it will be most effective .Colin
Arch,
It's an original pressing of Abbey Rd, not badly warped but has been well loved over the years by whoever owned it
For tests on this arm they have been fairly basic, frequency sweep through headphones and speakers, silent grooves for rumble tests and low frequency woofer pumping along with channel separation tests consisting of seperate tones L to R and multiple tones seperate frequency in each channel. Since I had modified the headshell it has diminished woofer pumping to almost nothing visible, and that is my low frequency noise test
Colin
Hi Colin,
What took you so long? I used resonance nodes way back when I first built the Corian TT. Also used that approach to find the most effective position for TT mounting spikes on it. So when are you going to build a violin. Or maybe are there any violin builders out there that are going to make the next prize winning TT? All kidding aside, I'm glad you too have discovered the technique.
Rgds,
BillG
Hello lexx21
The solvent I used is called "Electronic Solv" from Western Chemical International, Inc.
Western Chemical International, Inc. - Mechanical, Tool and Parts Cleaners
The reason I used this particular product is that, the label on the can emphasizes its no residue properties.
Sincerely,
Ralf
The solvent I used is called "Electronic Solv" from Western Chemical International, Inc.
Western Chemical International, Inc. - Mechanical, Tool and Parts Cleaners
The reason I used this particular product is that, the label on the can emphasizes its no residue properties.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Neugruen,
That's a neat looking arm, length of a pivoted and a clever scheme for tangential tracking. The more Ive played with the linear concept the more I'm thinking just tangential tracking is not the whole story to musical enjoyment. At the end of the day it's all flawed, vinyl is a flawed medium, but the uncanny speed of a short arm on transients and resolution keep me in short arm territory. With vinyl, I love the sound of it, perfect no, but no jitter problems , its kind of a pick your poison game. I do however like the whole wheels and traversing the path that the lathe on every single lp ever produced in the history of the lp has traversed when cutting the acetate for our beloved records
Colin
Colin
That's a neat looking arm, length of a pivoted and a clever scheme for tangential tracking
. The more Ive played with the linear concept the more I'm thinking just tangential tracking is not the whole story to musical enjoyment. At the end of the day it's all flawed, vinyl is a flawed medium, but the uncanny speed of a short arm on transients and resolution keep me in short arm territory. With vinyl, I love the sound of it, perfect no, but no jitter problems , its kind of a pick your poison game. I do however like the whole wheels and traversing the path that the lathe on every single lp ever produced in the history of the lp has traversed when cutting the acetate for our beloved records Colin
Colin
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Thanks for the link. The ever more inventive Frank is at it again! Here's the picture!
Linear Tracker
Xact Audio, Rockport speakers, Kodo the Beat turntable, Schroder tonearm, Stillpoints - YouTube
nut to crack
THX Paul
Xact Audio, Rockport speakers, Kodo the Beat turntable, Schroder tonearm, Stillpoints - YouTubenut to crack
THX Paul
The usa patent + drawing is around on the web too , Thomas is a creative guy , admire his products .
THX
Paul