Thanks for mentioning, I didn't realise the dimensions were missing. I will update the spec page asap. Until then, the dimensions are 55X62mm.
If I check the specs of your casing it looks like it should just fit fine.
I will be able to test the amp with the Boominator in a little while, as I expect to receive my Boominator speakers next week. I will try to create a little buildlog here of my experience with building the boominator.
If I check the specs of your casing it looks like it should just fit fine.
I will be able to test the amp with the Boominator in a little while, as I expect to receive my Boominator speakers next week. I will try to create a little buildlog here of my experience with building the boominator.
Last edited:
Alright, I read the thread, and I'm working on a "classic" build, with the USA swap to the GW-1058 woofers, and as the parts start to trickle in, I've had a couple of things cross my mind. I've never built speakers before, so these might be simplistic questions.
What happens when you blow a speaker? Looking through pictures on facebook and whatnot, it looks like the speakers are mounted from the back, since I never see any screws or anything on the front faces. Also, it sounds like having a totally sealed box is pretty important acoustically, which i can understand. But then, how do you replace a driver? Or, a driver pair, since ostensibly I've already chemically bonded the driver chassises together.
Also, the GW-1058 has a height (a mounting depth?) of 122.5 mm as measured by my calipers. I'm not interested in changing the dimensions of the box, but assuming the box has an inner dimension of 276mm, the magnet ends of the drivers are going to be about 32mm apart when they're mounted to the box. maybe cut 3-4mm off of that for the grills, but that's still too far to glue directly magnet-to-magnet. Do I just shim the center brace until it's the proper thickness and then glue the drivers to that?
Finally, I think this was touched somewhere in the thread, but I can't find it (no thread search!
). Should all the speakers be in phase, or is one side of the boominator reverse polarity?
This has already been such an adventure and I haven't even built anything yet!
What happens when you blow a speaker? Looking through pictures on facebook and whatnot, it looks like the speakers are mounted from the back, since I never see any screws or anything on the front faces. Also, it sounds like having a totally sealed box is pretty important acoustically, which i can understand. But then, how do you replace a driver? Or, a driver pair, since ostensibly I've already chemically bonded the driver chassises together.
Also, the GW-1058 has a height (a mounting depth?) of 122.5 mm as measured by my calipers. I'm not interested in changing the dimensions of the box, but assuming the box has an inner dimension of 276mm, the magnet ends of the drivers are going to be about 32mm apart when they're mounted to the box. maybe cut 3-4mm off of that for the grills, but that's still too far to glue directly magnet-to-magnet. Do I just shim the center brace until it's the proper thickness and then glue the drivers to that?
Finally, I think this was touched somewhere in the thread, but I can't find it (no thread search!
). Should all the speakers be in phase, or is one side of the boominator reverse polarity?This has already been such an adventure and I haven't even built anything yet!
Last edited:
Alright, I read the thread, and I'm working on a "classic" build, with the USA swap to the GW-1058 woofers, and as the parts start to trickle in, I've had a couple of things cross my mind. I've never built speakers before, so these might be simplistic questions.
What happens when you blow a speaker? Looking through pictures on facebook and whatnot, it looks like the speakers are mounted from the back, since I never see any screws or anything on the front faces. Also, it sounds like having a totally sealed box is pretty important acoustically, which i can understand. But then, how do you replace a driver? Or, a driver pair, since ostensibly I've already chemically bonded the driver chassises together.
Also, the GW-1058 has a height (a mounting depth?) of 122.5 mm as measured by my calipers. I'm not interested in changing the dimensions of the box, but assuming the box has an inner dimension of 276mm, the magnet ends of the drivers are going to be about 32mm apart when they're mounted to the box. maybe cut 3-4mm off of that for the grills, but that's still too far to glue directly magnet-to-magnet. Do I just shim the center brace until it's the proper thickness and then glue the drivers to that?
Finally, I think this was touched somewhere in the thread, but I can't find it (no thread search!
This has already been such an adventure and I haven't even built anything yet!
Here is how i replaced a woofer in my Boominator Some of the last pic's:
http://sdrv.ms/1aeGRvt
Sinterklaas was early this year...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
EEK, your gonna have trouble building around that...... The speakers should first be bonded to the baffle and then the box and centre brace is built around baffles and speakers, the speakers should be bonded together at the same time you construct the box..........
You are right, if a speaker blows, the only way in is by routing the top, a good example of how to do that successfully is shown above...... unless you are extremely unlucky and end up with a defective driver, you should never blow a driver as they are massively underpowered in a boominator (unless you intend to go off piste and add a massive power hungry ampifier)... I guess that you could wreak your drivers if you constantly drive your 25watt amp to clipping and square waving your drivers but you aint gonna do that ... are you?
So basically, its not something that you should worry about too much... if ever one of my drivers blows I'll destroy the boominator, salvage the good stuff and rebuild, better than last time .......
JP
Actually most professional drivers are meant to be mounted from the back. That's why the paper ring on the front of the chassis is called a mounting gasket. Some professional drivers also has one on the back but that's another story. Professional drivers are generally designed to be mounted from the backside, and it will generally give the best of audio quality.
There is very little risk of burning off a driver if you stick to the recommended amplifiers as there's quite a bit of power headroom. Off course, it does happen if you should be so unlucky as to have a faulty driver, or as I saw in one case, forgot to mount grills and had the membrane kicked in.
As brummiejon says, it is possible to fix but in most cases it's probably just as easy to rebuild the whole thing again. Just even better. And let's be real here. It's not like you can change a driver on a commercial store bought boombox either, so I honestly don't see a problem here as it's very unlikely to become an issue.
Last edited:
I finished my Boominator Mini before this years festival (with limited success because I've never done anything like this before). Next time I'd like to upgrade and build the full Boominator, using the package solution provided by the guys from Canopysound.
I do have a few questions I couldn't find an answer to, however. I was planning to buy 2 of the solar panels recommended earlier in this thread (Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics). And first I'd like to hear if they're just supposed to be wired directly to the battery, along with the amp, in parallel? EDIT: Just noticed that this one is only shipped to UK, is there a similar alternative for us danes that still doesn't require a regulator?
Secondly, we had a problem with our setup last year because people never had enough power on their phones to play continuously throughout the day, so I'd like to mount a USB port this time, but I have no idea what I'm looking for, and how it's supposed to be wired, so any pointers would be great.
Lastly I also bought the Fiilo E3 the last time, but I found that since it has no on/off switch, and has to be manually shut off by disconnecting the jackstick (which i conveniently put inside the electronics room). This meant that I often couldn't be bothered to open it up to turn it off, and the amp was almost always out of battery as a result. Is there a similarly priced amp with an offswitch? Or how did you guys deal with placement/use of the amp?
Thank you in advance
I do have a few questions I couldn't find an answer to, however. I was planning to buy 2 of the solar panels recommended earlier in this thread (Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics). And first I'd like to hear if they're just supposed to be wired directly to the battery, along with the amp, in parallel? EDIT: Just noticed that this one is only shipped to UK, is there a similar alternative for us danes that still doesn't require a regulator?
Secondly, we had a problem with our setup last year because people never had enough power on their phones to play continuously throughout the day, so I'd like to mount a USB port this time, but I have no idea what I'm looking for, and how it's supposed to be wired, so any pointers would be great.
Lastly I also bought the Fiilo E3 the last time, but I found that since it has no on/off switch, and has to be manually shut off by disconnecting the jackstick (which i conveniently put inside the electronics room). This meant that I often couldn't be bothered to open it up to turn it off, and the amp was almost always out of battery as a result. Is there a similarly priced amp with an offswitch? Or how did you guys deal with placement/use of the amp?
Thank you in advance
Last edited:
Hi
I used the maplin solar panels and they are just simply wired in parrallel with the battery, they have a shottky diode built in already so as long as you dont mix up the polarity they are simple to add. They work ok but I'd like some additional charging headroom so in my next build, I'm going to add a larger ouput solar panel (link to one on the boominator facebook page) and a charge regulator... Why? So that there is plently of power to keep the boominator going and to charge lots of devices. Also with a charge regulator you can use a cheap laptop charger instead of needing to top up the boominator batteries with a more expensive smart charger...
Don't mount a usb port (surface mount USB's are expensive anyway), mount a 12v car lighter socket and use one of those plug in things for the usb out.... the socket then also doubles as a charge input or a 12v out... I sometimes run some 12v LED lights for all night parties from my boominator 12hours straight with no issues....
Also, I wouldnt bother with the fiio.... if you mod the input and feedback resistors of your amp as described in this forum and many others in DIY Audio, you won't need a headphone amplifier. It is by far a better long term solution to mod your amp. Its not difficult, or you could spend the money getting someone to do it for you instead of spending it on a headphone amp and batteries.....
*BJ*
Thanks a bunch mate, I wouldn't trust myself to mod the amp though, since I basically destroyed the amp6b i bought for my first attempt hah, I'd rather just spend money on the preamp and find a way to make it work.
Hi to all. I'm making something similar to boominator, just smaller. ordered all parts, and found this thread full of info.
My setup : SLA 12V battery, Tripath 2101 amplifier, and for now Grundig RB Box speakers (3way system 4 ohm 75w) speakers will be plced in smaller box (plywood).
I faced problem with audio input level, cant read all 430 pages, so maybe this was solved.
Audio input level from phone (galaxy S3, or other) is too low. First thought was - what a crappy amplifier. But I connected input from my home stereo system (headphone out)
And it was amazing good sound with such small amplifier.
how to solve this problem? Preamp? headphone amplifier?
mp3>preamp>amplifier ?
on ebay found few cheap preamps:
Headphone amplifier 1
Preamplifier 2
preamplifier 3
Will these suitable for my application?
My setup : SLA 12V battery, Tripath 2101 amplifier, and for now Grundig RB Box speakers (3way system 4 ohm 75w) speakers will be plced in smaller box (plywood).
I faced problem with audio input level, cant read all 430 pages, so maybe this was solved.
Audio input level from phone (galaxy S3, or other) is too low. First thought was - what a crappy amplifier. But I connected input from my home stereo system (headphone out)
And it was amazing good sound with such small amplifier.
how to solve this problem? Preamp? headphone amplifier?
mp3>preamp>amplifier ?
on ebay found few cheap preamps:
Headphone amplifier 1
Preamplifier 2
preamplifier 3
Will these suitable for my application?
Just found, that it is possible to adjust input level (gain) by changine resistors. found 10-11 and 14-15 pins on tripath microscheme. recomendations was 22k-100k (Rf RIn) on my TA2021 Rf is 20k
Tripath TA2021
So maybe it is worth to change resistors instead of installing preamp?
what would best solution?
1. keep Rf 22k, - change only Rin to 100k
2. change Rf to 20k and Rin to 100k
3. keep Rf 22k, change Rin to 90k (to keep same proportion)
don't have much experience, but soldering wouldn't be a problem.
Tripath TA2021
So maybe it is worth to change resistors instead of installing preamp?
what would best solution?
1. keep Rf 22k, - change only Rin to 100k
2. change Rf to 20k and Rin to 100k
3. keep Rf 22k, change Rin to 90k (to keep same proportion)
don't have much experience, but soldering wouldn't be a problem.
BoominatorDIY by Saturnus - 3D Warehouse
Boominator
and this forum mate........
That is it...... read the forum, make notes and learn.... it all in here...
also, check out the facebook page, the photos will help a lot......
*BJ*