You can use Flux-Off. But I don't usually bother. In the past I've cleaned boards I'm repairing with alcohol and a toothbrush or Q-tips when there's too much flux and junk on the pads after desoldering parts. Not sure it's the best thing to use but I haven't had any problems.
Well I did get soldering today. I am so dang glad I purchased that soldering station of this would have stunk.
I was only able to get the resistors in today, tomorrow I will go for the caps.
I have included a few pictures and I apologize for their quality but I can never get good angles from my wheelchair.
I also tried to clean a little of the solder joints with alcohol but it appears to have discolored the board which I do not like.
James
I was only able to get the resistors in today, tomorrow I will go for the caps.
I have included a few pictures and I apologize for their quality but I can never get good angles from my wheelchair.
I also tried to clean a little of the solder joints with alcohol but it appears to have discolored the board which I do not like.
James
OK, silly question number 22, oh heck may as well stop counting at this time since more will be coming.
According to my notes, R15 needs to be a jumper. Is there any issue using one of the legs I cut off from either a resistor or cap?
While I am at it, I am using an Ortofon 2M Blue so I know that R20 should be a 47K ohm resistor. Is there any benefit from get a “top” of the line resistor for that? Also, what value of cap would be good to use for C9? I show in my notes that it can range from 3-11pF. I am not sure if this helps but according to Ortofon the "Recommended load capacitance= 150-300 pF”. Thanks.
James
According to my notes, R15 needs to be a jumper. Is there any issue using one of the legs I cut off from either a resistor or cap?
While I am at it, I am using an Ortofon 2M Blue so I know that R20 should be a 47K ohm resistor. Is there any benefit from get a “top” of the line resistor for that? Also, what value of cap would be good to use for C9? I show in my notes that it can range from 3-11pF. I am not sure if this helps but according to Ortofon the "Recommended load capacitance= 150-300 pF”. Thanks.
James
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Not a silly question at all.
A resistor lead is ideal. That is a perfectly good place for an extremely good resistor. Perhaps a 1% Dale metal film? Those are fantastic resistors. (No sarcasm intended.)
Try it both ways -- with the load cap and without. You should be able to get a good poly in that value. Or a mica if you can't.
6L6,
Thank you for the response.
For the resistor, would something like this be all right? It’s a VISHAY-73810, a little bit down the page in the link below.
Vishay VAR-Series "naked" Z201 Z-FOIL RESISTOR
I do have a few of that type of resistor in my B1 at this time.
As for the last part of your response I do apologize but I am a bit confused. Are you stating to first start off with nothing at all in C9? Than if things do not sound correct to add in a cap?
Thanks again.
James
Thank you for the response.
For the resistor, would something like this be all right? It’s a VISHAY-73810, a little bit down the page in the link below.
Vishay VAR-Series "naked" Z201 Z-FOIL RESISTOR
I do have a few of that type of resistor in my B1 at this time.
As for the last part of your response I do apologize but I am a bit confused. Are you stating to first start off with nothing at all in C9? Than if things do not sound correct to add in a cap?
Thanks again.
James
That's a very nice resistor, it will do fine. Although I doubt it will be 20x better than what you have there already... the Dales are really nice. Save your money. Yes and no. It's not that it's going to 'not sound correct' without it, but that you might prefer it with the cap. Or without. You have to try both ways to find out, there is no 'right' answer.
6L6,
Is this more of what you were referring to? Thanks.
CMF5547K000BER670 Vishay/Dale Metal Film Resistors
James
Is this more of what you were referring to? Thanks.
CMF5547K000BER670 Vishay/Dale Metal Film Resistors
James
I'm sorry, I was trying to be clever and it didn't come across in text...
In an extremely roundabout way I was trying to suggest that you don't bother changing the resistors. The Dale metal film that you have in there now are extremely good resistors, better than most. They are high tolerance and low noise.
$16 for one resistor doesn't seem like a logical place to spend money on a project like this. (My opinion.)
But you are using a 2M blue... 47K is the recommended load an it is there in the 47k resistor right before the first gain stage. You won't need anything in r20 with that cart.
R20 is used if you need to adjust the load to something else than 47K
Well I pretty much got most of everything else soldered on today. I did take out R19 since I had a 47.5K ohm in there and will replace it with a straight 47K. That may not be necessary but I am going there anyway.
I also found that even after my double checking my parts I did not have C7 so I will have to order that. I will also need to find the red leds.
Next stop is to try and find the housing I will want to use. I am hoping to get my B1 in with the Pearl boards, possibly even the power supply.
I also need to get a nut and bolt for the heat sink. I took them to the hardware store yesterday and got some that fit it but found out they are to large for the voltage reg devices.
James
I also found that even after my double checking my parts I did not have C7 so I will have to order that. I will also need to find the red leds.
Next stop is to try and find the housing I will want to use. I am hoping to get my B1 in with the Pearl boards, possibly even the power supply.
I also need to get a nut and bolt for the heat sink. I took them to the hardware store yesterday and got some that fit it but found out they are to large for the voltage reg devices.
James
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Would either of the below transformers work for this application?
The Plitron is the one I show listed in the parts spreadsheet I have but I would like to know if the Antekic would work work since it is about 60 dollars less. Thanks.
Plitron 30 VA - 2 x 115 V @ 50/60 Hz (17017201 - 30 + 30 V at 0.5 A)
Antek - AN-0532
Outputs 2x, Power 50VA, Output Voltage 32, Current .8a
James
The Plitron is the one I show listed in the parts spreadsheet I have but I would like to know if the Antekic would work work since it is about 60 dollars less. Thanks.
Plitron 30 VA - 2 x 115 V @ 50/60 Hz (17017201 - 30 + 30 V at 0.5 A)
Antek - AN-0532
Outputs 2x, Power 50VA, Output Voltage 32, Current .8a
James
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Why do you want 32v secondaries? That will lead to ~44v rectified, which will need to get knocked down to a minimum of 40v (maybe 35v depending on the brand of 7824/7924) at the regulator inputs, and then regulated all the way down to 24v by the regulators. I only used a transformer with 30v secondaries because I had it on hand.
If you are buying the transformer just get this one - http://www.antekinc.com/details.php?p=647
It's shielded and should be quiet. It's also less than 18 bucks.
Then buy the "PS-KIT" from chipamp.com - Order | Chipamp.com
With the addition of a big diode bridge like this - GBPC3502-E4/51 Vishay Semiconductors Bridge Rectifiers you will be able to build the power supply just like the one shown in the original article.
Another member (budwiser) made one with this setup and it's perfect for this project --
If you look here (post #1387) you will see a great implementation. (yes, you need to click on the links to see the photos)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/156397-pearl-two-28.html#post2914064
Lastly, you need heatsinks for your regulators.
If you are buying the transformer just get this one - http://www.antekinc.com/details.php?p=647
It's shielded and should be quiet. It's also less than 18 bucks.
Then buy the "PS-KIT" from chipamp.com - Order | Chipamp.com
With the addition of a big diode bridge like this - GBPC3502-E4/51 Vishay Semiconductors Bridge Rectifiers you will be able to build the power supply just like the one shown in the original article.
Another member (budwiser) made one with this setup and it's perfect for this project --
If you look here (post #1387) you will see a great implementation. (yes, you need to click on the links to see the photos)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/156397-pearl-two-28.html#post2914064
Lastly, you need heatsinks for your regulators.
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