And here is the DIY TAS5630 Class D amp boards. I will offer them in GB if there is considerable interest.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do you have a little bit of specs for the amp to share?
Supply voltage and VA, ouput power, THD. etc...
Thanks
Do
You can refer to the datasheet for more info on the THD and other specification. Its a 300x2 watts amp. Supply voltage, for the main PVDD you can use 0-42V DC, you can use a 500watts readymade SMPS kit from connexelectronic for the main PVDD. and for ancilliary supply you can use 15-0-15v 1 amp AC transformer.
Hi
Im interested in the wm8741 dac board. Im located in the UK, whats the cost and what documentation do you get with it?
Thanks
About the aurdino code...
"IMPORTANT:
This code requires LCD12cW.h for i2c LCD from Web4robot LCD and macros.h
for defining the large characters. Download library from:
Arduino playground - LCDAPI and select "LCD12cW"."
LCD12cW doesn't exist anymore... Any other place I can find the needed?
Brgds
"IMPORTANT:
This code requires LCD12cW.h for i2c LCD from Web4robot LCD and macros.h
for defining the large characters. Download library from:
Arduino playground - LCDAPI and select "LCD12cW"."
LCD12cW doesn't exist anymore... Any other place I can find the needed?
Brgds
I have uploaded on to the net. You can download it from here
LCDi2cW.zip - 4shared.com - online file sharing and storage - download
This is more alarming though...
Now, hearthwinter...
Where did this design originally come from? The very large schematic with the microscopic text doesn't reveal which of the reg1 - reg5 feeds what.
In one way or another we want an answer... (Brian Eno - David Byrne... America want's an answer - in one form or another).
Well, I have a bunch of fine components if this one doesn't get more support. The questions are piling up, I just have to get organized first. The configuration text. The proposed jumpering - is it in the mute or not muted position in the document? Is the opposite 1-2 or not jumpered at all?
Brgds
BTW: I will cross post this to the GB are (from where our belowed organizer has been thrown out to the Vendors Bazaar...).
Now, the components are ok so now there is probably more work to be done than anticipated at first if one decides to not give up (whatever that is?) - this will work eventually...
Brgds
Now, hearthwinter...
Where did this design originally come from? The very large schematic with the microscopic text doesn't reveal which of the reg1 - reg5 feeds what.
In one way or another we want an answer... (Brian Eno - David Byrne... America want's an answer - in one form or another).
Well, I have a bunch of fine components if this one doesn't get more support. The questions are piling up, I just have to get organized first. The configuration text. The proposed jumpering - is it in the mute or not muted position in the document? Is the opposite 1-2 or not jumpered at all?
Brgds
BTW: I will cross post this to the GB are (from where our belowed organizer has been thrown out to the Vendors Bazaar...).
Now, the components are ok so now there is probably more work to be done than anticipated at first if one decides to not give up (whatever that is?) - this will work eventually...
Brgds
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Check if there is any short
The schematic in the pdf can be zoomed and it is quite straight forward.
If you cannot do it, send it back to me, I will do it for you.
The schematic in the pdf can be zoomed and it is quite straight forward.
If you cannot do it, send it back to me, I will do it for you.
I have zoomed it in - it doesn't tell which of the regs are 1,2,3,4 or 5...
If it did I could easily find out which part that is drawing the current and yes I have searched for shorts.
As long as I dont have the info on the regs I have to check every possible track on the board - now I have a second one (used to it now) so I can track the behemot down. But again hearthwinter - your shematics arn't of the best quality (I couldn't use the one word description as it could have upset some religious or feministic friends of ours...).
What components are reg 3 and 4 feeding? Your design so just spit it out!
Brgds
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This is not a very complicated circuit, it is a very simple circuit, i do not understand why there is so much difficulty in identifying the regs. Okay anyway i am giving out the order of the regulators in the schematic. It will be in the order as follows
REG3 - 3.3V
REG1 - 5V REG4 - 3.3V
REG2 - 5V REG5 - 3.3V
If you still have difficulty I will resend the schematic to your email id.
Thank you heartwinter - I know what their outputs are...
So a few trickier ones for you:
What does reg1 feed...
What does reg2 feed...
What does reg3 feed...
What does reg4 feed...
What does reg5 feed...
Then we have a couple reglike on the top side as I recall - IC7/8 - what do they do?
Just spit it out please.
Brgds
So a few trickier ones for you:
What does reg1 feed...
What does reg2 feed...
What does reg3 feed...
What does reg4 feed...
What does reg5 feed...
Then we have a couple reglike on the top side as I recall - IC7/8 - what do they do?
Just spit it out please.
Brgds
You know, you have a full schematic and I have resend the schematic with reg names, and you couldn't find out what regulators feeds what. If you just solder the components as given in the top and bottom layout it will work fine with no problem at all. But anyway
You can have a look at the BOM to know what these ICs are
REG1 feeds IC1, IC3, Q2, IC5
REG2 feeds IC6, IC8, IC9
REG3 feeds IC2, IC7
REG4 feeds SWAPPABLE DIGITAL RECEIVERS, IC4, RST IC
REG5 feeds IC5
IC7 AND GATE as D+ pull-up must not be activated while the device is detached from USB or power supply is not applied on VDD
IC8 NOT GATE to show the lock status of the spdif signal
Now what you can do is get the datasheet for these ICs to have a better understanding and to know what function they do.
You can have a look at the BOM to know what these ICs are
REG1 feeds IC1, IC3, Q2, IC5
REG2 feeds IC6, IC8, IC9
REG3 feeds IC2, IC7
REG4 feeds SWAPPABLE DIGITAL RECEIVERS, IC4, RST IC
REG5 feeds IC5
IC7 AND GATE as D+ pull-up must not be activated while the device is detached from USB or power supply is not applied on VDD
IC8 NOT GATE to show the lock status of the spdif signal
Now what you can do is get the datasheet for these ICs to have a better understanding and to know what function they do.
haha excellent support, you start giving attitude to customers who just want a useful schematic and a board that comes without free shorts before anything is soldered? your boards do not have what i would call a logical layout and yes naming things so that they give some hint as to what they power is a good idea.
even if you feel that you have given enough information for charging a premium price for the 2 sided PCB, a customer deserves some support, they have to put together their own BOM and you want to be annoyed if they ask questions about the board? what is it exactly you are prepared to do?
even if you feel that you have given enough information for charging a premium price for the 2 sided PCB, a customer deserves some support, they have to put together their own BOM and you want to be annoyed if they ask questions about the board? what is it exactly you are prepared to do?
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hi Guys,
I bought a board from the previous buy ,IT HAD A SHORT,well being me with 40 years of kit building with no solder bridges so far says well maybe I did one somewhere it is small on surface mount,so to make a long story short,I found a production short under the mask to power running the clock,I email and was told I was full of shiX and that couldn't happen I destroyed that board before I found it so ,DO check your boards before you start putting parts on,BTW the short I found could have been a spec of dust,but it was as thick as the traces,and the schematics suck,I had the chips and associated parts,but nothing tied all together,My second board did get checked by me and it did perform well,but bought 2 boards to get one to work plus the time,2nd time I built the power supply first and wired it to the board and powered on after each chip was soldered in,that way if theirs a problem it's located,hope this saves some time,GOOD Luck!
I bought a board from the previous buy ,IT HAD A SHORT,well being me with 40 years of kit building with no solder bridges so far says well maybe I did one somewhere it is small on surface mount,so to make a long story short,I found a production short under the mask to power running the clock,I email and was told I was full of shiX and that couldn't happen I destroyed that board before I found it so ,DO check your boards before you start putting parts on,BTW the short I found could have been a spec of dust,but it was as thick as the traces,and the schematics suck,I had the chips and associated parts,but nothing tied all together,My second board did get checked by me and it did perform well,but bought 2 boards to get one to work plus the time,2nd time I built the power supply first and wired it to the board and powered on after each chip was soldered in,that way if theirs a problem it's located,hope this saves some time,GOOD Luck!
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