Hello!
Your wiring is really close to being right on. The only bits missing are a signal to pin3 of the xlr. This should be connected to the 'bottom' of the secondary. These will be the Black/White wires from each transformer. Just run each one to it's respective pin3 and you should be good to go.
The only other thing you may want to check when you are at it is that if you have wired a mute position at the bottom of the switch it should be wired to pin3 of the XLR output - not to ground. That way when at mute position you short pin to pin3 - no difference between levels gives a mute. If you wire this spot to ground when you hit the mute position then pin3 waves in the breeze and it won't mute.....
Hope that does the trick!
John
Your wiring is really close to being right on. The only bits missing are a signal to pin3 of the xlr. This should be connected to the 'bottom' of the secondary. These will be the Black/White wires from each transformer. Just run each one to it's respective pin3 and you should be good to go.
The only other thing you may want to check when you are at it is that if you have wired a mute position at the bottom of the switch it should be wired to pin3 of the XLR output - not to ground. That way when at mute position you short pin to pin3 - no difference between levels gives a mute. If you wire this spot to ground when you hit the mute position then pin3 waves in the breeze and it won't mute.....
Hope that does the trick!
John
Thanks John I appreciate the reply. I actually had the output lugs on the switch round the wrong way left>right and vice versa.
I did have the signal to the xlr but messed up my post.
The good thing is that I have now added the mute wire to the xlr rather than ground
thanks again.
I really like the sound of this thing.
I did have the signal to the xlr but messed up my post.
The good thing is that I have now added the mute wire to the xlr rather than ground
thanks again.I really like the sound of this thing.
Three Years On...
Hi Everyone,
I've just recased my 102s in an original Django chassis kindly supplied to me by Brian a couple of years ago.
I've fashioned beechwood trafo supports and the 23 position Seiden switch is wired up. I have all the other parts to finish, but I'm a little foxed by the 4 pole, six way Seiden selector. Seems to me that I have 3 inputs on my chassis and 12 possible stereo channels on the switch. I was wondering whether I'm missing the obvious, or is most of my switch going to be unused?? I suppose I could wire it such that the positions 4, 5, 6 are phase inverted from 1, 2, 3, but to what effect?
What did you guys do with your Seiden selectors, please? I'd like to get this project wrapped up (after 5 years!! ) and get the Django head to head with my Lightspeed! 
Many thanks !!
Jon
Hi Everyone,
I've just recased my 102s in an original Django chassis kindly supplied to me by Brian a couple of years ago.
I've fashioned beechwood trafo supports and the 23 position Seiden switch is wired up. I have all the other parts to finish, but I'm a little foxed by the 4 pole, six way Seiden selector. Seems to me that I have 3 inputs on my chassis and 12 possible stereo channels on the switch. I was wondering whether I'm missing the obvious, or is most of my switch going to be unused?? I suppose I could wire it such that the positions 4, 5, 6 are phase inverted from 1, 2, 3, but to what effect?What did you guys do with your Seiden selectors, please? I'd like to get this project wrapped up (after 5 years!!
) and get the Django head to head with my Lightspeed! Many thanks !!
Jon
With your 4-pole switch you break BOTH hot and neutral wires of each channel. This allows you to conductively isolate all inputs from one another.
Hopefully, the switch is make before break, at least on two of the poles, so that any signal grounds are not broken before the hot side, to prevent popping.
Therefore, you'll have 6 positions for input, of which 3 will be used. You can inverse wire the other positions for inverted phase.
Hopefully, the switch is make before break, at least on two of the poles, so that any signal grounds are not broken before the hot side, to prevent popping.
Therefore, you'll have 6 positions for input, of which 3 will be used. You can inverse wire the other positions for inverted phase.
FINISHED!!!! ... apart from final re-assembly.
So, five years and five months since this thread started! I will put the lid on tomorrow and attach the Django face-plate and ally knobs. I've configured input floating, with phase reversal option, and output with floating, soft and hard grounds. Although I have the XLR fittings installed, they are not wired inhttp://www.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/silly.gif (a 5 minute job) as I have run out of my teflon sleeving and need to pick some more up from DIYHiFiSupply.
To be honest, the wiring on this project has been a huge effort (and used a LOAD of heatshrink), but I'm happy it stands scrutiny with my picky hat on!
Like many thinks that seemed unfathomable in the past, with the help I've got from people here and elsewhere, plus time for all that good advice to percolate through, it is common sense in the end!
So, thanks to Thorsten, Brian, John C and all you lot for all your help in completing this project!
Now, where did I put those Aleph X boards...
Cheers
Jon
So, five years and five months since this thread started!
I will put the lid on tomorrow and attach the Django face-plate and ally knobs. I've configured input floating, with phase reversal option, and output with floating, soft and hard grounds. Although I have the XLR fittings installed, they are not wired inhttp://www.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/silly.gif (a 5 minute job) as I have run out of my teflon sleeving and need to pick some more up from DIYHiFiSupply.To be honest, the wiring on this project has been a huge effort (and used a LOAD of heatshrink), but I'm happy it stands scrutiny with my picky hat on!
Like many thinks that seemed unfathomable in the past, with the help I've got from people here and elsewhere, plus time for all that good advice to percolate through, it is common sense in the end!
So, thanks to Thorsten, Brian, John C and all you lot for all your help in completing this project!
Now, where did I put those Aleph X boards...
Cheers
Jon
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Yup - it's very nice indeed!
And here we are! Using the CD960 as transport to the AYA DAC. A pair of Arcam D290Ps into IPL S3TLM transmission line speakers.
It sounds great. Detailed, and powerful. The D290Ps have a soft presentation, and when I have got my rear panels machined, I'll be boxing up the MyRefCs I have here and running them in the system. Having tried them arleady with the Lightspeed, they are faster and have a more detailed presentation than the uber-smooth Arcams. Personally, I prefer the excitement of the MyRefCs over the velvet D290Ps.
I'm very happy with what I'm hearing so far - it was worth the wait! Now I want to have a go at my Pumpkin kit - only had that in the drawer for, what, 3 years??!!!
Cheers
Jon
Thanks!
I will let you know tomorrow afternoon!!!!
And here we are!
Using the CD960 as transport to the AYA DAC. A pair of Arcam D290Ps into IPL S3TLM transmission line speakers.It sounds great. Detailed, and powerful. The D290Ps have a soft presentation, and when I have got my rear panels machined, I'll be boxing up the MyRefCs I have here and running them in the system. Having tried them arleady with the Lightspeed, they are faster and have a more detailed presentation than the uber-smooth Arcams. Personally, I prefer the excitement of the MyRefCs over the velvet D290Ps.
I'm very happy with what I'm hearing so far - it was worth the wait!
Now I want to have a go at my Pumpkin kit - only had that in the drawer for, what, 3 years??!!! Cheers
Jon
