Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

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Siberia

Siberia

Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Hello, voltages across R10 are 2,16 on one side and 2,30 on another. Huge offset?
Yesterday, I've plugged it to my system. It sounded OK.

I'm still not sure about one thing. Should I have an input return (grounded) connected directly to a circuit board INs middle pin (current setup). Or should I have it wired somehow via the pot?
 
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Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
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You are one of the few that get the CCS currents so close and above 200mA with 10R without a second try given the Mosfets Vgs spreads actually. Its not about offset, creates nothing such. Its to have the regs working in near current regions for both rails. If you have no buzz or hum on the speakers as the grounding is right now, let it be.
 
A

AndrewT

R.I.P.
Joined 2004
The Takman has omitted Fe (iron) from it's construction. That might be a good reason for choosing it.

Low inductance is certainly not the reason. Takman state as much in the datasheet.

A small and easy to implement change in the production procedure could cancel much of the inductance effect. For some reason they chose not to adopt that almost zero cost procedure.
 
Siberia

Siberia

Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Two, three words on the sound, as I have spent a couple of days with DCB1 already.
System: QUAD 707 amp, Spendor S100 speakers, various sources.
DCB1 parts are mostly per BOM: Nichicon KG and PM caps, Vishay RN60D resistors, Alps RK27 20K pot...

I can compare this buffer only to my passive volume control. And first to notice is the dynamic control. All the sections are tight together like one fist now. Sometimes I had a too laidback, lazy reproduction with my passive. It got really faster. Especially, the bottom end. It is ridiculously good compared to earlier. Highs are not rolling off at any level. The stage is open and nice. The only downgrade, if it's legal to use this word, is a little less transparence in the mids. Though, this could be due to a feeling, that on my passive, mids were really outstanding, in a sense, that all other sections weren’t performing that great.

Thanks to everybody involved. I’m looking for enclosure and a pot extention kit now. Later, I will consider updgrading. Where should I start?
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Siberia said:
Two, three words on the sound, as I have spent a couple of days with DCB1 already.
System: QUAD 707 amp, Spendor S100 speakers, various sources.
DCB1 parts are mostly per BOM: Nichicon KG and PM caps, Vishay RN60D resistors, Alps RK27 20K pot...

I can compare this buffer only to my passive volume control. And first to notice is the dynamic control. All the sections are tight together like one fist now. Sometimes I had a too laidback, lazy reproduction with my passive. It got really faster. Especially, the bottom end. It is ridiculously good compared to earlier. Highs are not rolling off at any level. The stage is open and nice. The only downgrade, if it's legal to use this word, is a little less transparence in the mids. Though, this could be due to a feeling, that on my passive, mids were really outstanding, in a sense, that all other sections weren’t performing that great.

Thanks to everybody involved. I’m looking for enclosure and a pot extention kit now. Later, I will consider updgrading. Where should I start?
Click to expand...

For more interesting mids, get a better pot. Switching or light.
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
I remember the S100 a bit thicker in low mids mainly in contrast to its higher regions. That is where voices mainly live and the Alps is a bit heavy there too. Try a cheap switch pot DACT style first, if it will work towards the right direction, then light is the ultimate next step in pots.
 
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