for the fets its ok, I was wondering about the diodes (mur 820) which I havent soldered yet ....
thanks, the resistors are kiwame
*kiwame resistor page
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That's what I mean ''self'' sinking. The TO-220 8A diodes can work at the 10R first step hot-rod self sufficiently. At 0.65Vf with 0.2A no sweat. In general have a rule of thumb, don't get more than 45C on Mosfet sinks or diodes, for a long trouble free life. Nice build execution by the way.
I can see it in the BOM. I hope DimZ did not put 1K there. It is to check currents when setting for reg use only following the guide steps thread. You may jumper if for fixed DCB1 use.
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Thanks Salas and Tea-Bag,
Salas that 1R on my BOM is 10R:
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Salas that 1R on my BOM is 10R:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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You think that's bad - I got Mez boards not realising that there were blue Hypno boards. And that's after reading the various threads for a couple of weeks to try and figure it all out. It's no problem for me and I'm hotrodding them at the moment (pics will follow), but there's a bunch of parts not populated of course (on the board).
I now wish there was a "Which B1 to build" thread to just sort this out. It could have a description of the various designs and boards, the BOMs and where to get things and so on. Just to help people in the future who come to this and try to figure out what they need.
Why you did not post a question what is hypno what is mez mentioning your application in mind? Cut the excess board parts off, they can still be made to relay switched inputs pre amps in the future if needed when fed from a +/- 10V PSU.
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As I said, it's not a problem, yes it's all useful.
But at the time, new to the board or thread, coming in as a new user and late to the party, there seemed to be several old and new designs, and at least at the time there was no centralised explanation of the several designs. So as a new user, I read many different threads, and it seemed that the Mez boards were the latest design, and importantly they seemed to be the only boards available.
I never saw anywhere an explanation saying - if you don't want input switching, get a Hypno board, (which colour I don't know), if you need input switching, get a Mez board (from TeaBag - many thanks). Etc. Maybe it's there and I missed it, there is a lot of info in the various threads, and finding what you want is not a trivial task, especially if you're new.