• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Help chosing second hand tube amp for 95db speakers

Hi all,

Recently i started my very own first project based on Phi by Klang und Ton design. Thread link > Help chosing high SPL drivers for 3way classic loudspeaker
Nominal sensitivity 95db @1w/1m
Xmax for speakers is 20w @115db, so we can conclude they are pretty sensitive :)

phi.jpg



Now i want some sweet single ended class A amp, and choice is boiling down to couple second hand projects and one solid state.

1.
Single Ended 2x 6P6S Russian Tetrodes 2x 3.6w paired with preamp 1x ECC 82 (Tungsram or Siemens, choice will be mine). Price is 100e which is sweet deal.

116857423_60abc8168fa771-78869811162186987585956.jpg 116857423_60abc81691e2a1-18661813162187019856946.jpg 116857423_60abc81693c888-95343091162187034522249.jpg 116857423_60abc816957e38-98755165162187055666716.jpg

2.
Single Ended 2x 6080 triodes, 2x 10w. From the looks of it, it doesnt have a preamp integrated ? Price is 199e.


115651019_60912dac5e6803-68043887desktop-116.JPG 115651019_60912dac6087c1-71971328desktop-117.JPG 115651019_60912dac5cd100-28356081desktop-115.JPG 115651019_60912dac5a3876-63467107desktop-114.JPG 115651019_609ffad5b46a73-54598364IMG_20210515_15.jpg 115651019_609ffad5afeaa3-60088724IMG_20210515_15.jpg
 
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And third option, while not being a tube but a solid state, pretty interesting.

3. Musical Fidelity A100-X Class A 2x 20w, some resto mod had been done, like replacing power cable, and solid state amp chips. Price is 250e.

Resto mod list:
1. Replaced amp chips with Motorola MJ15003 i MJ15004.
2. Replaced preamp from Mark Hennessy recept.
3. Replaced power cord with 9 twirls copper cables with silicon isolation.


116485979_60a398dabef2e5-41210381IMG_20200818_18.jpg 116485979_60a398dac58df1-13398848IMG_20200818_18.jpg 116485979_60a398dac8d6f5-75307698IMG_20200818_18.jpg 116485979_60a398daccaa18-15278224IMG_20200818_18.jpg




So, all in all, what do you guys think, what should i buy ? I will test them all before hand ofc.

This will be a temporary solution, as my next project will be to build a amp from scratch that will run my speakers.
 
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Let's start with Joppa's Rule, which states that in "typical" listening spaces an amp/speaker combo should be capable of producing 102 dB. SPL peaks at a 1 M. distance. Upwards of 6 WPC are needed.

As a DIY project is on the horizon, don't rule out PP EL84 or 6V6 amps that have been or will be triode "strapped", as the interim solution.

BTW, crossover complexity could make circuitry containing loop NFB, with its better damping factor, desirable.
 
Hi Eli,

Thanks for reply, honestly im leaning for the 1st option, tho 3.6w might be bit low, i can manage until i build what i want :)

As for XO, its bit complex, and i spared no expenses with parts, entire thing costed be around 500e with small array speakers. Not the best of the best, but not too bad either.

Also Impedance of speakers is 8om

xoplan.JPG
1xo.jpg
 
Hi all,

Recently i started my very own first project based on Phi by Klang und Ton design. Thread link > Help chosing high SPL drivers for 3way classic loudspeaker
Nominal sensitivity 95db @1w/1m
Xmax for speakers is 20w @115db, so we can conclude they are pretty sensitive :)




Now i want some sweet single ended class A amp, and choice is boiling down to couple second hand projects and one solid state.

1.
Single Ended 2x 6P6S Russian Tetrodes 2x 3.6w paired with preamp 1x ECC 82 (Tungsram or Siemens, choice will be mine). Price is 100e which is sweet deal.

View attachment 954628 View attachment 954629 View attachment 954630 View attachment 954631

2.
Single Ended 2x 6080 triodes, 2x 10w. From the looks of it, it doesnt have a preamp integrated ? Price is 199e.


View attachment 954632 View attachment 954633 View attachment 954634 View attachment 954635 View attachment 954636 View attachment 954637
As you already have limited your options severly there is not much advice to give.


Good Luck!
 
As you already have limited your options severly there is not much advice to give.


Good Luck!


Unfortunately, due to customs/import laws of my country its almost impossible to order online or somewhere from EU, because duty's can very well exceed the cost of product. :(

So my only chance is to scavenge ad's for second hand stuff, or to travel to EU and try to smuggle stuff back to my country, which i partly did when i was traveling last month, and i bought XO components.
 
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option 2 (2x6080) is built far better than option 1 (2x6p6s), but needs a external voltage gain stage (preamp). Option 1 is a minimal effort job with exposed high voltage parts; main filter capacitors and transformers have been recovered from vintage record players.
 
First, i went and bought option 1, guy selling was really nice and he lost his job and was in dire need of cash, and was super sad to sell his equipment, if nothing i helped someone in need.

Hmm, i didnt know about this, i will def have a look. Thanks. I also noticed they start from 2k euro, ouch, thats way out of my budget, but i will give the guy a call to see what else he offers. I still want to build my own amp tho.

option 2 (2x6080) is built far better than option 1 (2x6p6s), but needs a external voltage gain stage (preamp). Option 1 is a minimal effort job with exposed high voltage parts; main filter capacitors and transformers have been recovered from vintage record players.


That was my concern, cant be bothered to put something together since it will only be temporarily. And you are absolute correct, thats what he said, he salvaged vintage record player from 50's. We tested amp on alinco speakers from cc 50/60's they are around 92db, sounds really great.



DrZoidberg,

In your post # 1 you said the speaker was rated at 95dB @ 1Watt/1Meter
1 Watt is 0dB Watt
20 Watts is +13dB Watts

95dB + 13 dB = 108 dB

You said 20 Watts gives 115dB.
No, it only gives 108 dB on a 95dB @ 1 W/1Meter speaker.


You are more likely right than i am :) 115db @ 20w was a result from bass xmax value from simulation for cabinet 30hz, maybe (most likely) i misunderstood what was presented.
Nvm, i totaly confused what i was seeing, 110db is correct value, and for 40hz, 30hz goes to 95db, my bad.
BGS40.jpg
But good info to know :)
 
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The transformers seems to be good quality and the layout is correct. I'm sure it sounds good at low volume level, better than most China-sourced low cost kits at twice the price: at least it is my experience on this kind of builds. If you have a tester, check continuity between the IEC connector ground contact, the negative speaker terminals, the RCA connector shields, the transformers laminations, and the filter capacitor cans. Ungrounded parts are safe to touch only when the power plug is disconnected from the outlet.
 
The transformers seems to be good quality and the layout is correct. I'm sure it sounds good at low volume level, better than most China-sourced low cost kits at twice the price: at least it is my experience on this kind of builds. If you have a tester, check continuity between the IEC connector ground contact, the negative speaker terminals, the RCA connector shields, the transformers laminations, and the filter capacitor cans. Ungrounded parts are safe to touch only when the power plug is disconnected from the outlet.


Thx Pcan, will do it when i get home, as its currently sitting in my apartment where i dont have any equipment. Just to clarify, since im a bit of noob, testing should be done when device is powerd off (cable removed from socket) tester setting should be that beeper (shorting) mode, if it beeps when grounds are connected its not ok ? Or if it doesnt beep, it means its not grounded ?
 
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There should be a short (beep sound) between the ground connection on the mains power plug and the parts I mentioned on previous post. It is a vintage style build made with vintage parts, electrical safety is not up to modern standard. Be sure to not leave it turned on unsupervised.
 
There should be a short (beep sound) between the ground connection on the mains power plug and the parts I mentioned on previous post. It is a vintage style build made with vintage parts, electrical safety is not up to modern standard. Be sure to not leave it turned on unsupervised.

Will do, thanks. Also on side note, only thing "wrong" with amp is volume pot, somewhere in middle there is a noise/hissing, guy told me its bit dirty, so im thinking to wash it with alcohol and/or benzin.

I have built a couple of el 84 se, triode wired. Hammond transformers, 125DSE output transformers, who sounds great. Love the simplicity,

Wow, thats a very nice build, i hoping mine will look close as nice to yours :)

6080 amp in post 1 must be push pull - does not mean a bad thing.

Yes, that is correct, forgot to write it, seller said its push-pull. But since it didnt have preamp and was double the price, it fell short on list :)
 
The transformers seems to be good quality and the layout is correct. I'm sure it sounds good at low volume level, better than most China-sourced low cost kits at twice the price: at least it is my experience on this kind of builds. If you have a tester, check continuity between the IEC connector ground contact, the negative speaker terminals, the RCA connector shields, the transformers laminations, and the filter capacitor cans. Ungrounded parts are safe to touch only when the power plug is disconnected from the outlet.


Today i played a bit with amp, and before hand did the testing.

1. Negative speaker terminal, NO beep.
2. RCA connectors, YS beep.
3. Transformers laminations, NO beep.
4. Filter capacitors, YES beep.



Also volume pot seems to be from Bakalit plastic, when i touch it volume goes down by around 3db or so. After 3/5 amplification there is disticnt distortion in mid - bass leveles. Looks like it will have to be replace due to wear and dirtiness..
 
Generally, Output Transformer Secondaries need to be returned to ground
(The 'Common' Tap).

Depending on the presence of negative feedback (Global or Cathode) from the OPT secondary, one of the other taps, 4, 8, 16 may be (should be) grounded.
But that also gives continuity to ground.

It may depend on your exact circuit, but that needs to be checked before proceeding.
Floating secondaries can be deadly.

Safety First!

Prevent the "Surviving Spouse Syndrome".

"Live Long and Prosper" - Spock
 
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