Thanks stereo71,
I have a couple of spare 40VA 12VAC transformers laying around and thought I might as well use one, but I bet I have a lighter weight wall-wart in my junk box that I can use, which would be easier to secure to the inside of one of the chassis panels. These meters probably pull a few milliamps, judging by the included wiring. Although I am not sure if any of my wall-warts are are AC output...
I have a couple of spare 40VA 12VAC transformers laying around and thought I might as well use one, but I bet I have a lighter weight wall-wart in my junk box that I can use, which would be easier to secure to the inside of one of the chassis panels. These meters probably pull a few milliamps, judging by the included wiring. Although I am not sure if any of my wall-warts are are AC output...
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Oh, I am also going to do this, as planned, today - and see how I like it.
No switch. If I like it, I will leave it in. If I don't, I will remove it.
No switch. If I like it, I will leave it in. If I don't, I will remove it.
I haven't gotten around to the VU meters yet. Been dicking around with the high-pass filter. I didn't like it, so I removed it. Then I realized I don't really like the sound of the amp with hard-wired CFB. Not in triode nor UL. This is all with the 6P3S-E tubes, so maybe they just don't like the feedback?
I am honestly thinking of just forgetting about CFB at this point. The switch is already installed, but I might just use that to fake out friends when they come to listen. Flick the switch and say "can you hear the difference?" If they say yes, I'll know they are full of **IT.
I am going to wire it back up without CFB for now, since I know I like it that way. Don't know if I will get to the VU meters tonight...
I am honestly thinking of just forgetting about CFB at this point. The switch is already installed, but I might just use that to fake out friends when they come to listen. Flick the switch and say "can you hear the difference?" If they say yes, I'll know they are full of **IT.
I am going to wire it back up without CFB for now, since I know I like it that way. Don't know if I will get to the VU meters tonight...
So I deleted the CFB last night and can confirm that this particular SSE just sounds loads better without it, even in UL mode.
I am listening in UL mode right now and once again I am struck by how "crisp" it sounds. Reminds me in a way of my TPA3118 "Wiener" amp. Super "precise" sounding - however there is still good warmth in the bass. Triode is fuller, richer, smoother through the midrange and treble.
Conclusion: I love both - but not with CFB.
I am listening in UL mode right now and once again I am struck by how "crisp" it sounds. Reminds me in a way of my TPA3118 "Wiener" amp. Super "precise" sounding - however there is still good warmth in the bass. Triode is fuller, richer, smoother through the midrange and treble.
Conclusion: I love both - but not with CFB.
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cogitech,
Measurements would confirm, but I would guess in UL mode you have less H2 (second harmonic) distortion component and a slightly higher H3 in the overall profile. Hence the perception of a crisper sound with UL and smoother/mellower sound with SE. Output impedance might be lower in UL vs SE mode too, giving it little tighter/grippier bass.
Measurements would confirm, but I would guess in UL mode you have less H2 (second harmonic) distortion component and a slightly higher H3 in the overall profile. Hence the perception of a crisper sound with UL and smoother/mellower sound with SE. Output impedance might be lower in UL vs SE mode too, giving it little tighter/grippier bass.
I got the VU controller installed and wired up to the meters this morning. I happened to find a really light 200mA 9VAC wall wart in my bin (the controller called for 9-15VAC and the 9VAC was pushing 11V with no load). For testing and calibration purposes I am just taking advantage of the very long lead - plugged the wall wart directly into the power bar. It all works and adds that final touch of style. I calibrated the controller so that the meters hit the "red zone" intermittently when playing "fairly loud" and solidly in the "red zone" when it is riding the line of significant distortion. It's pure eye candy anyway, so this is mostly irrelevant.
Truth be told, I will probably leave it wired this way through the Holidays and then revisit wiring it to the power switch in the New Year. It's time to clean up my office of all the tools, parts, wires, etc. and just enjoy listening to the amp over the Holidays. My wife has been very patient so far. I want to stop before she has to say something. The Christmas lights aren't even on the house yet...
I'll take a an evening shot with it all lit up and post later.
Truth be told, I will probably leave it wired this way through the Holidays and then revisit wiring it to the power switch in the New Year. It's time to clean up my office of all the tools, parts, wires, etc. and just enjoy listening to the amp over the Holidays. My wife has been very patient so far. I want to stop before she has to say something. The Christmas lights aren't even on the house yet...
I'll take a an evening shot with it all lit up and post later.
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I bought mine from ebay. One pair straight from Ukraine and the other from Russia. One pair were obviously NIB, and the other were not in boxes and dusty/grimey. They sound the same, though.
I've recently ordered two more NIB from Russia. Ebay seller is "nixiestore" 100% + feedback on over 10,000 transactions. They take a while. I'm not a shill, just reporting my experience so far.
According to some google-fu I have done, these tubes are identical to the Sovtek 5881/6L6WGC. Or rather, the Sovtek 5881/6L6WGC is not a 5881/6L6WGC at all, it is a re-screened 6P3S-E at double the price or more. Vacuum Tube - 5881 / 6L6WGC, Sovtek | CE Distribution
The text in that description is full of contradiction, as you can see. Twice they say the Sovtek 5881/6l6GWC can handle higher voltages that the 5881 tubes, then they say the max plate voltage is 250V (which is the official maximum for the 6P3S-E). However the max plate voltage of the 5881 tubes is typically 400V https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/5/5881.pdf
So they've got it all screwed up, and basically revealing that the tube is a re-badged 6P3S-E.
But that's OK, because many of us know already that the 6P3S-E is good for way more than 250V (going up to 500V in some guitar amps and remaining happy) - so what they are saying is true but they are saying it in a very contradictory manner.
I've recently ordered two more NIB from Russia. Ebay seller is "nixiestore" 100% + feedback on over 10,000 transactions. They take a while. I'm not a shill, just reporting my experience so far.
According to some google-fu I have done, these tubes are identical to the Sovtek 5881/6L6WGC. Or rather, the Sovtek 5881/6L6WGC is not a 5881/6L6WGC at all, it is a re-screened 6P3S-E at double the price or more. Vacuum Tube - 5881 / 6L6WGC, Sovtek | CE Distribution
The text in that description is full of contradiction, as you can see. Twice they say the Sovtek 5881/6l6GWC can handle higher voltages that the 5881 tubes, then they say the max plate voltage is 250V (which is the official maximum for the 6P3S-E). However the max plate voltage of the 5881 tubes is typically 400V https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/5/5881.pdf
So they've got it all screwed up, and basically revealing that the tube is a re-badged 6P3S-E.
But that's OK, because many of us know already that the 6P3S-E is good for way more than 250V (going up to 500V in some guitar amps and remaining happy) - so what they are saying is true but they are saying it in a very contradictory manner.
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