Replacement power electrolytic: Sherwood S-6040CP amplifier
I need to replace the power electrolytic capacitors (4x 10000uF/63V) on the power supply board of a Sherwood S-6040CP amplifier. The problem is the lead wire separation. The holes on the PCB is 22.5mm or 7/8" apart. Most of the newer power electrolytic with SNAP-IN lead terminal type have riveted terminals that are 3/8" or 10mm apart.
How do I search for the cap that I need? (The search string/phase). Information on specific seller, brand and model is much appreciated.
I have 3 of this Sherwood S-6040CP amplifiers. The recap of one of them is immediately necessary when hum developed. I would like to recap all 3 due to their age. I will like to keep the price per cap to under $10, or under $5 if possible. This amp is a dual mono design, with 2 transformers and 4 electrolytic power capacitors in each chassis.
(This post was moved from the PARTS forum.)
I need to replace the power electrolytic capacitors (4x 10000uF/63V) on the power supply board of a Sherwood S-6040CP amplifier. The problem is the lead wire separation. The holes on the PCB is 22.5mm or 7/8" apart. Most of the newer power electrolytic with SNAP-IN lead terminal type have riveted terminals that are 3/8" or 10mm apart.
How do I search for the cap that I need? (The search string/phase). Information on specific seller, brand and model is much appreciated.
I have 3 of this Sherwood S-6040CP amplifiers. The recap of one of them is immediately necessary when hum developed. I would like to recap all 3 due to their age. I will like to keep the price per cap to under $10, or under $5 if possible. This amp is a dual mono design, with 2 transformers and 4 electrolytic power capacitors in each chassis.
(This post was moved from the PARTS forum.)
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I have in the past drilled new holes to accommodate snap in type capacitors in older equipment (as they're more common than other types in larger sizes) and removed a little solder mask around the new holes to accommodate. It can be done very neatly, but of course the trick only works if the PCB tracks can accommodate it.
Thank for the tip. I am thinking about this trick too. It would look nicer if I can find the old fashion (wider pitch) cap.
I went to digi-key.com, search for “passives”, then “aluminum electrolytic capacitors “ and then filtered for 22.5mm lead spacing, 63V rated and in-stock. Got 6 popped right up.
You will not find them for $10 though, specialty caps are always more. These were more like $15/ea.
It’s a 20 yr investment so, maybe start with the one with a hum and wait on the other 2?
You will not find them for $10 though, specialty caps are always more. These were more like $15/ea.
It’s a 20 yr investment so, maybe start with the one with a hum and wait on the other 2?
Digi-Key
I just tried again at Digi-Key. I cannot find any 10000uF/63V electrolytic that is not snag-in terminal. I need 22.5mm through hole leads. The closest I found was a 22mm, screw-on which is not applicable to the Sherwood.
Can you share a DigiKey link that you found? Thank you in advance. $15 per cap is acceptable. I need 4 for the immediate repair so it has to be stock item at Digi-Key. (I cannot meet the minimum order requirement for special order.)
I just tried again at Digi-Key. I cannot find any 10000uF/63V electrolytic that is not snag-in terminal. I need 22.5mm through hole leads. The closest I found was a 22mm, screw-on which is not applicable to the Sherwood.
Can you share a DigiKey link that you found? Thank you in advance. $15 per cap is acceptable. I need 4 for the immediate repair so it has to be stock item at Digi-Key. (I cannot meet the minimum order requirement for special order.)
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So why can’t you use snap in? If needed you can very slightly enlarge the holes if the leads are larger diameter?
Use the largest leaded part you can find and lead form to fit instead of drill holes to fit.
Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded | Mouser Canada
Nothing at Mouser, so plan "B", as recommended above by others.
Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded | Mouser Canada
Nothing at Mouser, so plan "B", as recommended above by others.
Can't lead form snap ins. I also wouldn't recommend it on these large caps, they need good physical support.
Snap ins are usually 10mm lead pitch. The original footprint has a 22.5mm lead pitch.
It is a nicely designed amp, similar to the DH-220C I put together.
It is a dual supply, so that makes it more difficult.
I could offer you this and you can shoehorn it in, with a right angle bracket so they mount perpendicular to the main pcb.
I used it to test out the DH-220C using dual die Alfets.
can't say I've seen 2sk343/2sj99 in that Hitachi package before = rare. I assume they are 100W max? devices.
Also could mount screw terminal types, by drilling new holes into the existing pcb but it is not the best, if it was mine I'd use my pcb's, because it looks the easiest. btw mine are 100x100mm.
It is a dual supply, so that makes it more difficult.
I could offer you this and you can shoehorn it in, with a right angle bracket so they mount perpendicular to the main pcb.
I used it to test out the DH-220C using dual die Alfets.
can't say I've seen 2sk343/2sj99 in that Hitachi package before = rare. I assume they are 100W max? devices.
Also could mount screw terminal types, by drilling new holes into the existing pcb but it is not the best, if it was mine I'd use my pcb's, because it looks the easiest. btw mine are 100x100mm.
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Goto Digikey and search for the Kemet ALC10C103EC063, it’s 10,000uF at 63V.
$13.10 for 1, or 10+ is $12.45 each.
22.5mm lead spacing at 40mm diameter.
Or Panasonic ECE-T1JP183EA which is 18,000uF at 63V at $13.20 ea or 10+ for $8.20 each.
22.5mm lead spacing and 35mm diameter.
I think you could make one of these work close to your $10 budget, especially if you order for all 3 amps, I.e. 10+ order.
$13.10 for 1, or 10+ is $12.45 each.
22.5mm lead spacing at 40mm diameter.
Or Panasonic ECE-T1JP183EA which is 18,000uF at 63V at $13.20 ea or 10+ for $8.20 each.
22.5mm lead spacing and 35mm diameter.
I think you could make one of these work close to your $10 budget, especially if you order for all 3 amps, I.e. 10+ order.
It is the pitch of the terminals, 10mm vs. 22.5mm. The hole diameter is NOT a problem.
I was hoping that some of the small, specialist vendor may have some new old stock of the cap.
Recaping old amp is quite popular this days. I hope that some fellow DIYers will share the situation they faced and how they resolved it. For even older amp, the power supply caps usually have screw-on terminal which can be replaced at a higher cost. I just replace the caps with a PCB and snap-in caps which is a lot cheaper from Digi-Key. (Yes, get the PCB from ebay.)
I wouldn't go for old stock when it comes to electrolytics. They have a shelf life and will start to degrade after a few years.
Panasonic ECE-T1JP183EA
The Kemet is larger in can diameter, but may still fit. But there is no reason to go with the Kemet for its higher price.
I really appreciate your effort to do the search for me and found the exact item that I need, with the bonus of higher capacitance.
Wow, that is exactly what the doctor orders. The Panasonic has the exact can diameter as the current cap. Yes, I need to order 12 to get the price break.
The Kemet is larger in can diameter, but may still fit. But there is no reason to go with the Kemet for its higher price.
I really appreciate your effort to do the search for me and found the exact item that I need, with the bonus of higher capacitance.
I just submitted an order for 12 Panasonic ECE-T1JP183EA. After Priority Mail shipping and tax, total is just under $114, which makes it less than $10 per cap. I would not be able to pull this off without your help.
I will post some pictures when I finish the recap. I already ordered the smaller caps from Digi-Key previously.
That is great I was going to ask you to post a few pics.
i was look on ebay and some guy is selling one, he said this
"- Made in Korea. What a POS! Designers put heavy aluminum heatsinks on each of 4 transistors which provide + and - biasing for main output FETs - Obviously as an afterthought. The heatsinks are just bolted onto the transistors and NOT mounted mechanically to the PCB! They flap around in the air when subjected to shock and vibration and eventually break off one of the 3 transistor leads - I expect this to happen to one or more of the 4 during shipping - surprised these amplifiers made it to the States still working when new. This is due to poor design on the OEMs part - not me. Will be working (see photo) when it leaves here. I repaired two broken leads; one on each of the two + / - transistors on the left channel. I DO NOT EXPECT THESE REPAIRS TO SURVIVE SHIPPING. "
i was look on ebay and some guy is selling one, he said this
"- Made in Korea. What a POS! Designers put heavy aluminum heatsinks on each of 4 transistors which provide + and - biasing for main output FETs - Obviously as an afterthought. The heatsinks are just bolted onto the transistors and NOT mounted mechanically to the PCB! They flap around in the air when subjected to shock and vibration and eventually break off one of the 3 transistor leads - I expect this to happen to one or more of the 4 during shipping - surprised these amplifiers made it to the States still working when new. This is due to poor design on the OEMs part - not me. Will be working (see photo) when it leaves here. I repaired two broken leads; one on each of the two + / - transistors on the left channel. I DO NOT EXPECT THESE REPAIRS TO SURVIVE SHIPPING. "
I suspect that this seller is trying to get rid of a defective amplifier and made a very poor excurse for the defect. On the Sherwood S-6040CP amplifier, the power drive PCB (2x K40430 Power Board) are bolted solidly to 2 steel plates which are part of a very solid chassis. The heatsinks are bolted to the same heavy gauge steel plate to prevent movement. The amp is very heavy and has very solid and sturdy construction. There is no flapping around of any part unless the owner loosened them.
Do a search to find threads on the Sherwood S-6040CP amplifier in this forum. You will find many pictures and positive comments about its design. You can download a copy of its service manual from HiFi Engine and judge yourself. I have called the Sherwood S-6040CP amplifier one of the best hidden gem in the 100 watts power amp.
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