Hi everyone,
Firstly, thanks for the help so far.
Secondly, let's put the 'you should have done this' or 'you should have done that' to rest.
Right or wrong, I was advised to recap the amp as a precaution. Right or wrong, I decided to do that. That is something that is within my ability and I have done it before with another amp with no issues.
I noticed that 1 regulator looked like it was running hotter than it should, so decided to replace it. It may have been working perfectly, but for a few $, I thought it wouldn't hurt since I have the amp apart.
Normally I would have sent this to my audio repairer, but due to lockdown and other reasons he is unable to do it (that is another story in itself).
So now the options are put everything back, or replace it with new parts. I'd rather replace it new parts if I can do that safely.
Back to the regulators and caps.
There are no schematics for this amp.
I will get both the metal back versions of the regs and will get the insulators for them. In terms of the heatsinks, they can't be any bigger. They are already squeezed into the space. But since it's been running for 20 years, does it need to have bigger heatsinks?
Should I get putting everything back once I get the components? Or should there be things I should be checking before doing that?
Thanks
Firstly, thanks for the help so far.
Secondly, let's put the 'you should have done this' or 'you should have done that' to rest.
Right or wrong, I was advised to recap the amp as a precaution. Right or wrong, I decided to do that. That is something that is within my ability and I have done it before with another amp with no issues.
I noticed that 1 regulator looked like it was running hotter than it should, so decided to replace it. It may have been working perfectly, but for a few $, I thought it wouldn't hurt since I have the amp apart.
Normally I would have sent this to my audio repairer, but due to lockdown and other reasons he is unable to do it (that is another story in itself).
So now the options are put everything back, or replace it with new parts. I'd rather replace it new parts if I can do that safely.
Back to the regulators and caps.
There are no schematics for this amp.
I will get both the metal back versions of the regs and will get the insulators for them. In terms of the heatsinks, they can't be any bigger. They are already squeezed into the space. But since it's been running for 20 years, does it need to have bigger heatsinks?
Should I get putting everything back once I get the components? Or should there be things I should be checking before doing that?
Thanks
I'll chime in and toss my opinion now....
That "advice" you got, was it from an experienced service technician that knew exactly what this "amp" is?
Because only a fool would do something suggested without checking the person's credentials, background, and reviews.
We don't even know, because as you stated, you have no service info on it, and you never told any of us a make/model.
So that leaves endless speculation, like a blind man on a busy highway.
That worn-out internet-born "advice" about "recapping" and its associated paranoia is more than not simply a misleading statement and often causes more problems than it solves.
Electrolyte type caps can definitely deteriorate (especially with a high temperature), but film caps usually not.
When you want to recap film caps it is better to have a good RLC meter.
It really sounds like you've absolutely no clue regarding servicing electronics.
Good luck with that.
Always. Use just a very tiny bit. I am a bit worried you don't know... Also drill 6 mm holes for better air flow in the PCB when possible. Tip: don't drill where there are PCB tracks
Better airflow is always OK, less heat is also always OK. There is no such thing a too good cooling/heat disposal.It was suggested to check WHY the heat occurs and to check the difference in input and output voltage. Is the heat unavoidable (class A energy waster?) or is it a design imperfection? Reread the thread. Understand. Now, RandomAudioGuy, next time don't do random stuff but mention brand/type as it is a bit wrong to want advice without giving enough information not to say it is irritating.
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Always. Use just a very tiny bit. I am a bit worried you don't know... Also drill 6 mm holes for better air flow in the PCB when possible. Tip: don't drill where there are PCB tracks
It was suggested to check WHY the heat occurs and to check the difference in input and output voltage. Is the heat unavoidable (class A energy waster?) or is it a design imperfection? Reread the thread. Understand. Now, RandomAudioGuy, next time don't do random stuff but mention brand/type as it is a bit wrong to want advice without giving enough information not to say it is irritating.
Jean-Paul, you've been very helpful and thank you very much.
I apologise for the frustrations caused to everyone. My initial questions were to confirm the voltage regulators and capacitors so they could be replaced. These questions have been answered and I'll be putting them in shortly.
While your suggestion of finding out the WHY is a great idea, I don't think I will be doing that. I had only intended to replace some of the components with new ones and people on here think I shouldn't even be doing that. So I think I'll put everything back and if it works, then great. If not, I'll wait till lockdown here is over and then find someone to have a look at it for me.
Again, thanks for yours and everyone else's help. I have no idea asking what types of voltage regulators and caps were would cause so much frustration for everyone.