I have a hard time too with reading the code.
Best I can tell you is to look at the documentation and decipher those ‚departments’ of it. Somewhere the value is noted, somewhere the tolerance etc. ...
Only after several attempts I began to understand which part of the code tells you what.
I occurs to me on reflection that this might be misinterpreted. My F5 also has 33,000uF caps (8 of them), and I'm using the standard CL-60 without it being a fuse junkie. So there's no requirement to go to a soft-start or 20ohm thermistor.
But if I were to want to limit inrush more, I'd use a 20ohm thermistor before I'd employ a soft-start -- just because I like simple.
Note that there's also the in-between step of an SL22 16004 (at 16ohms).
Thanks myleft ear. Big thanks to you 6L6. Your tutorials are great I appreciate you for them. I've got lots of info on your chassis and PSU guides. As well as the B1 Korg and this one.
I'm taking a beach break and supply run. I need star washers, fuses, misc. hardware, I'm passing the big box stores on the way. I best do it after the beach so my daughter doesn't get anxious. After the water she'll be tired and I won't be rushed. Enjoy your Saturday. Thanks again for your support..JJ
I'm taking a beach break and supply run. I need star washers, fuses, misc. hardware, I'm passing the big box stores on the way. I best do it after the beach so my daughter doesn't get anxious. After the water she'll be tired and I won't be rushed. Enjoy your Saturday. Thanks again for your support..JJ
Concerning resistor qualities etc., I've just read over this (link here) in the F4 building guide (from mighty 6L6 of course...):
A CMF55 and RN55 are essentially the same thing, the only real difference being that the RN will always have copper leads, the CMF may have copper or steel.
(for us fetishists)
Copper leads, those leads have Pb-containing solder tin, and the resistors themselves are 100% derated for power, I.E., a 1/4w resistor will say 1/8w on the datasheet.
Much, much more important than any of that, they are the easiest resistor to find at Digi-Key or Mouser that has the value printed on the side in numerals instead of colored bands.
That the RN- series is absolutely fantastic sounding, low noise, high precision, and incredibly consistent is just a happy benefit.
Much, much more important than any of that, they are the easiest resistor to find at Digi-Key or Mouser that has the value printed on the side in numerals instead of colored bands.
That the RN- series is absolutely fantastic sounding, low noise, high precision, and incredibly consistent is just a happy benefit.
I've got an F5 with the stores V3 PSU running very well with everything I've learned here, so thanks for that! But now I'm digging deeper...
Would someone please explain why it's preferable to have a CL-60 between the PSU ground and the chassis?
My understanding is that nothing in series between PEM Earth and the chassis is best because anything in series increases the odds the the chassis is live in a fault condition.
How does the CL-60 between PSU ground and chassis not violate that same principle whithin the scope of the PSU?
Thanks in advance.
Ryan
Would someone please explain why it's preferable to have a CL-60 between the PSU ground and the chassis?
My understanding is that nothing in series between PEM Earth and the chassis is best because anything in series increases the odds the the chassis is live in a fault condition.
How does the CL-60 between PSU ground and chassis not violate that same principle whithin the scope of the PSU?
Thanks in advance.
Ryan
I have the same issue. Would also be nice to find an alternative for which the Quasimodo R/C values are known.