^ Agreed... but I'm not talking about continuity between panels.
I've simply advised that they check the resistance of that one wire to mains earth. IF the resistance is higher than one would like, AND if it was their intention to have that wire have low resistance to mains earth, THEN the most likely point of failure is the fact that they've simply wedged a wire between the mounting washer of the pot and the anodized / painted front panel...
Now... if they got lucky... all good. A simple resistance check is all that's required to confirm. Me, I'd connect that wire in a different place / different way, but if the desire is to connect that wire in that place... then a little removal of the surface that will be hidden under the pot mount anyway... won't have a negative visual effect over and above the wire itself just smushed in there.
Just my
to take 30s to check the resistance and go from there.
I've simply advised that they check the resistance of that one wire to mains earth. IF the resistance is higher than one would like, AND if it was their intention to have that wire have low resistance to mains earth, THEN the most likely point of failure is the fact that they've simply wedged a wire between the mounting washer of the pot and the anodized / painted front panel...
Now... if they got lucky... all good. A simple resistance check is all that's required to confirm. Me, I'd connect that wire in a different place / different way, but if the desire is to connect that wire in that place... then a little removal of the surface that will be hidden under the pot mount anyway... won't have a negative visual effect over and above the wire itself just smushed in there.
Just my
to take 30s to check the resistance and go from there.
agree
different scenarios of grounding are possible, and (by memory) I believe that Wayne fully covered that issue
now - pot case - it is logical case of it being in connection with case front plate - but as with everything - slight nudge for novices to actually use DMM for intended purposes, is always helpful
speaking of novices - yesterday I killed one Arduino, swapping 5V and 24V wires on pcb
mileage doesn't count, having company in workshop sometimes costs more than coffee and small sip of brandy
different scenarios of grounding are possible, and (by memory) I believe that Wayne fully covered that issue
now - pot case - it is logical case of it being in connection with case front plate - but as with everything - slight nudge for novices to actually use DMM for intended purposes, is always helpful
speaking of novices - yesterday I killed one Arduino, swapping 5V and 24V wires on pcb
mileage doesn't count, having company in workshop sometimes costs more than coffee and small sip of brandy
Yes, the safety ground is connected to the chassis via IEC screw on some bare chassis m I ground down to raw metal (which I just learned is not necessarily necessary?).
The important thing to keep in mind here is that I had trouble figuring out how to do the LED power indicator so... I may not be the best person to reference in this scenario.
In any case, the intent wasn't really to ground it to chassis, but to audio ground. The chassis grounding (if it's even a thing), was by accident.
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It was not. It is mostly to ground to the audio ground. Any grounding to chassis is incidental.
I had a noise issue with this build when using the unit in preamp mode.
I detailed this a bit in post #5110.
The noise issue was troubling at first. I solved it by experimenting.
Now, after looking at the board, there is clearly a flaw with the layout. Maybe it has been discussed, I did not read many of the posts. Noise will not be noticeable with headphones, but it can be significant when using in "preamp" mode attached to an amp with a lot of gain.
If you look at the ground trace that runs from the power supply side to the amp side, next to C11, all of the board current returns thru this trace. The pot and input ground are also on the power side of the board. They are referenced to the wrong ground point. Noise is going to be added.
I'm using a wired pot so it was easy for me to change my input and pot grounds. If you are using the mounted pot and have noise, it can be resolved by cutting the trace shown with a "X" and running a wire between the pot ground over to the ground at the 100 Kohm resistors at the opamp input. You could easily run the wire on the bottom side of the board. It does not need to be heavy gauge. It's essentially what I have done with my wires. I didn't need to cut the trace.
Hope this makes sense.
I detailed this a bit in post #5110.
The noise issue was troubling at first. I solved it by experimenting.
Now, after looking at the board, there is clearly a flaw with the layout. Maybe it has been discussed, I did not read many of the posts. Noise will not be noticeable with headphones, but it can be significant when using in "preamp" mode attached to an amp with a lot of gain.
If you look at the ground trace that runs from the power supply side to the amp side, next to C11, all of the board current returns thru this trace. The pot and input ground are also on the power side of the board. They are referenced to the wrong ground point. Noise is going to be added.
I'm using a wired pot so it was easy for me to change my input and pot grounds. If you are using the mounted pot and have noise, it can be resolved by cutting the trace shown with a "X" and running a wire between the pot ground over to the ground at the 100 Kohm resistors at the opamp input. You could easily run the wire on the bottom side of the board. It does not need to be heavy gauge. It's essentially what I have done with my wires. I didn't need to cut the trace.
Hope this makes sense.
Last week I found some time to do a good comparrison. And try some tweeking.
First comparison was between the Whammy as I build it with the Burson Vivid V6 opamp.
John was so kind to ask me if I would test and try another of their opamps. Since I had the Vivid. I thought it would be nice to try the classic, becouse of it's different sound signature.
A few weeks later a parcell arived, at first I thought it was a mistake, What did I know in the meantime a new version, the V7 had come out. So I got one box with 2 Dual V7 Classic opamps, (WOW nice!). these are in a way more luxery pakkage, really nice, Aluminium heatsink cover instead of the plastic one of the V6.
I decided to connect the Whammy to my main Audio set-up with the Hifiman HE-1000 V2 for this comparrison (normally I Listen with it in the office on a different set-up).
Made a playlist, and started listening. with it as I build it, First impression, o wow, this Streamer-DAC combo is indeed a bit better! Any way after a few songs I put the Classic V7 in. At the first secends I noticed allready a difference in sound signature, this one is way more laidback, I think what some people will call more analog. I woukd describe it as more colouration, butt little less sparkling and after the same amount of songs I turned it back to the V6 Vivid again.
immediately I noticed more fresh, crispy-nes I liked about it, Bass is more accuratly.
And To get in in proportions they both sound very good,
To my opinion it's mainly about taste of soundsignature, In the end I Preffered the Vivid 6, So I stick with that for now.
A more fare comparrison between the V6 and newer V7 would be with both Vivid's so the Sound signature is the same, but only versions are compared.
Here ar some pic's of the comparrison.
A few days later I have been tweeking a bit. just for fun and because it was possible.
First another audiograde fuse I ordere months ago. I won't go to far into it it on this forum, but I'm glad I did.
And because I had it in the main setup now, I could try easilly some of the interlinks and power cables as well.
Well I must say that made by far the greatest improvement. Increddible detail, smootheness, attack and super tight basses. It all came together.
The first time ever I thought, well If I didn't have the space for a proper speaker setup. I could maybe live with a Headphone as alternative. allthough it's not he same.
And the tweeking bug is back in my head, I must try other cables between the Whammy and headphone for sure, there must be some upgrade possible.
Plus I'm gonna build a dac-streamer ombo for the office, as new winter project, first some research to be done.
First comparison was between the Whammy as I build it with the Burson Vivid V6 opamp.
John was so kind to ask me if I would test and try another of their opamps. Since I had the Vivid. I thought it would be nice to try the classic, becouse of it's different sound signature.
A few weeks later a parcell arived, at first I thought it was a mistake, What did I know in the meantime a new version, the V7 had come out. So I got one box with 2 Dual V7 Classic opamps, (WOW nice!). these are in a way more luxery pakkage, really nice, Aluminium heatsink cover instead of the plastic one of the V6.
I decided to connect the Whammy to my main Audio set-up with the Hifiman HE-1000 V2 for this comparrison (normally I Listen with it in the office on a different set-up).
Made a playlist, and started listening. with it as I build it, First impression, o wow, this Streamer-DAC combo is indeed a bit better! Any way after a few songs I put the Classic V7 in. At the first secends I noticed allready a difference in sound signature, this one is way more laidback, I think what some people will call more analog. I woukd describe it as more colouration, butt little less sparkling and after the same amount of songs I turned it back to the V6 Vivid again.
immediately I noticed more fresh, crispy-nes I liked about it, Bass is more accuratly.
And To get in in proportions they both sound very good,
To my opinion it's mainly about taste of soundsignature, In the end I Preffered the Vivid 6, So I stick with that for now.
A more fare comparrison between the V6 and newer V7 would be with both Vivid's so the Sound signature is the same, but only versions are compared.
Here ar some pic's of the comparrison.
A few days later I have been tweeking a bit. just for fun and because it was possible.
First another audiograde fuse I ordere months ago. I won't go to far into it it on this forum, but I'm glad I did.
And because I had it in the main setup now, I could try easilly some of the interlinks and power cables as well.
Well I must say that made by far the greatest improvement. Increddible detail, smootheness, attack and super tight basses. It all came together.
The first time ever I thought, well If I didn't have the space for a proper speaker setup. I could maybe live with a Headphone as alternative. allthough it's not he same.
And the tweeking bug is back in my head, I must try other cables between the Whammy and headphone for sure, there must be some upgrade possible.
Plus I'm gonna build a dac-streamer ombo for the office, as new winter project, first some research to be done.
In my experience, the multistrand and solid core cables have different sound signatures. Silver is good, especially silver ribbons, annealed. But copper ribbons will sound pretty good as well. You can experiment and see... maybe not so much as a headphones cable, but definitely as an RCA/XLR and power cable.
The power supply quality is also extremely important... I posted in this forum a suggestion to use a dedicated power supply (LT3045 & LT3094), that would branch off of the main power supply, and be used just for the OPAmp. This would bring exceptional benefits to the overall sound.
You could also look here.... for some other ideas:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/whammy-pass-diy-headphone-amp-guide.317803/post-7567614
.... so there's plenty to play with. WHAMMY is a perfect test-bed to run experiments and learn. Where you stop would depend on the quality of your source.
