this one ?
https://www.texascomponents.com/pdf/tx2352.pdf
according post #9 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-best-quality-parts-and-suppliers.194311/#post-2913891
not to prefer.
What about this resistor version ?
http://solidgreen.co.jp/products/pdf/REX.pdf
http://solidgreen.co.jp/products/pdf/REY.pdf
https://www.texascomponents.com/pdf/tx2352.pdf
according post #9 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-best-quality-parts-and-suppliers.194311/#post-2913891
not to prefer.
What about this resistor version ?
http://solidgreen.co.jp/products/pdf/REX.pdf
http://solidgreen.co.jp/products/pdf/REY.pdf
What actually is the best version for a stepped attenuator with rotary switch ?
In the attachment are to read the pros and cons for ladder-, series- and shunt type.
I read in post #13 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/shunt-attenuator-myth.94506/
an interesting approach for saving space and money
In the attachment are to read the pros and cons for ladder-, series- and shunt type.
I read in post #13 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/shunt-attenuator-myth.94506/
an interesting approach for saving space and money
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combination of ladder and shunt uses two contacts instead one contact on shunt only.
Mean you one of this versions ?
https://tubecad.com/2011/03/blog0201.htm
https://tubecad.com/2007/04/blog0102.htm
https://tubecad.com/2011/07/blog0207.htm
https://tubecad.com/2011/12/blog0222.htm
Mean you one of this versions ?
https://tubecad.com/2011/03/blog0201.htm
https://tubecad.com/2007/04/blog0102.htm
https://tubecad.com/2011/07/blog0207.htm
https://tubecad.com/2011/12/blog0222.htm
Best example is the A3 which is on the website and is single ended, not balanced. It uses Very High Quality switches. Since it was out of stock, I simply bought the one that used lesser quality switches and changed them out to Gold Point (Elma) switches.
These attenuators using a combination of shunt and ladder) will give you 66 different switch positions! The fact that they have two contacts is really a moot point given the quality of the contacts. If in fact this is a deciding factor, then buy the new Gold Point 44 position switch. I really don't have much more to add about this. There are plenty of options out there for volume control, including optical.
These attenuators using a combination of shunt and ladder) will give you 66 different switch positions! The fact that they have two contacts is really a moot point given the quality of the contacts. If in fact this is a deciding factor, then buy the new Gold Point 44 position switch. I really don't have much more to add about this. There are plenty of options out there for volume control, including optical.
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Hello! I recently found that the volume potentiometer of my Mark Levinson ML10A cut some top end of the sound in my left channel , not everywhere, especially in the lower position until 9 o’clock (this where I use it more although). Is there any way to clean it? It’s not scratching but the issue is noticeable
Hi, musicians usually just work out problematic knob, basically turn it back-n-forth until its fine, several seconds. This would give somewhat better contact, but soon it'll start again.
Problem could be from poor quality, or lot of usage, the tracks wear out. On hifi equipment though, it's likely knob is at same position for extended periods of time so it's not likely worn out from use but underuse, perhaps just gunk and dust. If there is DC current through the pot it could have worn out the contact as well, making this kind of issues, which I think could be common with hifi gear "avoiding capacitors on signal path". I do not remember ever read though for what reason would DC destroy pots, perhaps it jsut attracts dust. But, scratchy and problematic knobs are very common what ever the reason.
For cleaning, use some purpose fit product, and if I remember carbon and plastic track pots had different products, while wrong one could make matters worse.
So, permanent fix would be to change it for a new one if you can't get it working by cleaning. Try find exact replacement, if not then at least similar quality, conductive plastic if the current one is. You could also make a stepper, if you want more precision (channel balance).
edit. tons of olf threads on the subject, like this one: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ckling-dual-concentric-volume-control.263699/ Good cleanup and lubrication should work.
Problem could be from poor quality, or lot of usage, the tracks wear out. On hifi equipment though, it's likely knob is at same position for extended periods of time so it's not likely worn out from use but underuse, perhaps just gunk and dust. If there is DC current through the pot it could have worn out the contact as well, making this kind of issues, which I think could be common with hifi gear "avoiding capacitors on signal path". I do not remember ever read though for what reason would DC destroy pots, perhaps it jsut attracts dust. But, scratchy and problematic knobs are very common what ever the reason.
For cleaning, use some purpose fit product, and if I remember carbon and plastic track pots had different products, while wrong one could make matters worse.
So, permanent fix would be to change it for a new one if you can't get it working by cleaning. Try find exact replacement, if not then at least similar quality, conductive plastic if the current one is. You could also make a stepper, if you want more precision (channel balance).
edit. tons of olf threads on the subject, like this one: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ckling-dual-concentric-volume-control.263699/ Good cleanup and lubrication should work.
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If you have a frequency response problem its more likely a loading issue. There is some shunt capacitance on that channel that is killing the HF at low levels. Pot degradation is usually noise when rotating the control. I suppose the contact resistance is very high at that point in rotation but I have never seen that. Usually pots fail completely well before that.
I have heard, that some models of this P&G pots are make for dis-assembly resp. tear-down.
But unfortunately the type number (which is necessary to find out this) isn't to read without tear down the pre-amplifier itself - go to
https://www.restauraudio.fr/mark-levinson-ml10.html?gid=1&pid=1#&gid=1&pid=2
From my view the first step is to de-solder the whole foil connector between potentiometer and main-board.
Then the right channel of potentiometer output to the left input of main-board and the left channel of potentiometer to the right input of main-board.
Is the unwanted effect still on left channel, the potentiometer is not the reason therefore.
Extending the foil connection with very thin and flexible cables is very laborious but unfortunately unavoidable in order to fix the reason for the unwanted effect on one channel.