@camplo - lol! all good! Wrt your question about angling horns... It depends on what you are after. If after what is heard in the studio control room, then the default ITU, EBU, Dolby, etc., spec is the equilateral triangle with the speakers toed in pointing at you ears on axis. If you don't care about that, then anything goes 
Good luck and looking forward to hearing about your results!
Good luck and looking forward to hearing about your results!
I considered that configuration (Ro808). It looks weird but the principle is sound....the issue for me is that I am trying to decrease the acceptable listening distance, as well as, be able to integrate this with a desk and keep near a 60 degree triangulated sweet spot.
What we have done is expose the weaknesses and benefits of many configurations, just short of trying to reinvent the wheel, you might say, and proven why the TMM is a good idea.
I wasn't sure if using fill was even a good idea at this point. I read that fill is very effective for sealed enclosures, not so much bass reflex. Does anyone ever intentionally not use fill material? Like I said I'm playing with Boxnotes and trying to keep the resonant modes above 200hz like the app suggest but a tall enclosure would allow for floor standing, and a decrease in depth, though it creates a low note resonance from top to bottom.
I just may have a look at the 4722 dimensions...
mitchba - I could argue that since the horn is able to be positioned, maybe I should just go ahead and put the top woofer at ear level. A tall speaker....non the less.
ps - I still have no idea how to center the diaphragm XD
What we have done is expose the weaknesses and benefits of many configurations, just short of trying to reinvent the wheel, you might say, and proven why the TMM is a good idea.
I wasn't sure if using fill was even a good idea at this point. I read that fill is very effective for sealed enclosures, not so much bass reflex. Does anyone ever intentionally not use fill material? Like I said I'm playing with Boxnotes and trying to keep the resonant modes above 200hz like the app suggest but a tall enclosure would allow for floor standing, and a decrease in depth, though it creates a low note resonance from top to bottom.
I just may have a look at the 4722 dimensions...
mitchba - I could argue that since the horn is able to be positioned, maybe I should just go ahead and put the top woofer at ear level. A tall speaker....non the less.
ps - I still have no idea how to center the diaphragm XD
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Another DIY project from Germany. This time an active dsp-ed 2-way.
I like the concept and the woofer is ok, but personally I would build this thing with Faital, B&C, or Beyma parts.
It's a 160L cabinet with 1.4" horn and 15" woofer and Fb: 35Hz.
Woofer is Monacor SP-38A / 500BS and comp. driver: Monacor MRD-300.
The horn is sold under the Monacor label (MRH-300), but it's actually a P.Audio PH-94.
It's not supposed to sound like horn, which isn't surprising given its depth of only 12cm.
A Monacor AKB-400 active DSP-module is mounted on the rear, which includes Hypex UCD-400s.
For those interested, this is the build thread > German, so use google translate. The project seems well thought-out,
with some sims of the cabinet, ports etc. in Inventor.
I like the concept and the woofer is ok, but personally I would build this thing with Faital, B&C, or Beyma parts.
It's a 160L cabinet with 1.4" horn and 15" woofer and Fb: 35Hz.
Woofer is Monacor SP-38A / 500BS and comp. driver: Monacor MRD-300.
The horn is sold under the Monacor label (MRH-300), but it's actually a P.Audio PH-94.
It's not supposed to sound like horn, which isn't surprising given its depth of only 12cm.
A Monacor AKB-400 active DSP-module is mounted on the rear, which includes Hypex UCD-400s.
For those interested, this is the build thread > German, so use google translate. The project seems well thought-out,
with some sims of the cabinet, ports etc. in Inventor.
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Moden bei 255, 267, 273Hz.jpg -
img-stageline-menhir-l-lautsprecherbausaetze-35439.jpg -
img-stageline-menhir-l-lautsprecherbausaetze-35442.jpg -
img-stageline-menhir-l-lautsprecherbausaetze-35443.jpg -
menhir-l_925758.jpg -
PH94_a.jpg
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Clean look. From this thread so far, it's made me rethink the capability of 2-way horn designs. I've always thought horns need minimum 3-ways to be give true hifi quality reproduction. I guess not!
Picked up pair of Altec 511 horns + Altec 808-8b 1" drivers locally last night. Drivers in mint condition. Owner had previously paired them with big ported box with a single Altec 515 15" woofer. Has now moved to the Altec 805 multicell horn with Altec 288 1.4" drivers. All reports on the Altec multicell horns are that they have least 'horny-ness' effect compared to other designs. Does this still hold true?
What modern 15" woofer is closest spec/sq to the vintage Altec 416-8 drivers?
Picked up pair of Altec 511 horns + Altec 808-8b 1" drivers locally last night. Drivers in mint condition. Owner had previously paired them with big ported box with a single Altec 515 15" woofer. Has now moved to the Altec 805 multicell horn with Altec 288 1.4" drivers. All reports on the Altec multicell horns are that they have least 'horny-ness' effect compared to other designs. Does this still hold true?
What modern 15" woofer is closest spec/sq to the vintage Altec 416-8 drivers?
Ad 1. True and I think the TMM is probably the best of all options.
The question is: would an TMM work/fit in your room and if so, what would be the best design for the cab, considering the size of the horn(mouth)?
Ad 2. So far, I don't have any damping material in my cabs. My cabs were designed this way (by a pro).
416-8 A or B?
Anyway, probably none of the regular (affordable, non-esoteric) brands.
The best known Altecs: 414, 416, 515 etc., not the later 'high power' drivers, are quite delicate compared to most contemporary PA drivers.
IOW these are built for low power amps and the parameters are 'oldskool'.
A few days ago I showed the K-value (suspension stiffness) of the 416-8, which is ultra low compared to any modern PA driver.
This is just one parameter, which is accounts for the low Fs of these drivers.
It's obvious why the old Altecs are very popular among the SET crowd
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hrmmm.. B?
That's correct ewollowe. Couldn't resist... especially since have not managed to find any Fatial hf drivers for reasonable price domestically yet to pair with my horns. Agreed there doesn't seem to be big horn (especially vintage horn) following in Western Australia.. online anyway...
Note: the Altec sectoral horns look ugly imo. The multicell horns noticeably cooler looking. The mantaray horns in between.
That's correct ewollowe. Couldn't resist... especially since have not managed to find any Fatial hf drivers for reasonable price domestically yet to pair with my horns. Agreed there doesn't seem to be big horn (especially vintage horn) following in Western Australia.. online anyway...
Note: the Altec sectoral horns look ugly imo. The multicell horns noticeably cooler looking. The mantaray horns in between.
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Goto has/had? one and of course GPA, both expensive now. Biggest problem is finding a prosound mid-bass horn driver with a ~750-1K L Vas.
Only conical WGs and to a slightly lesser extent, tractrix are 'horny-ness/honk' free, though W.E., etc., multi-cells are only obvious at high power, which isn't likely to happen except at stadiums.
As I previously posted, sectoral horns such as the 511 needs mass quantities of tweaking to sound close to a WG. The shortened 1.4" 511E with its vane damping wedges is much better though, requiring mostly just some throat cleaning up, heavy mouth perimeter damping.
If the 808 still has a Symbiotik diaphragm, need to replace with GPA 34647 alum. if still available and/or convert to the 26420 for higher power apps. Both need a terminal conversion kit.
GM
Only conical WGs and to a slightly lesser extent, tractrix are 'horny-ness/honk' free, though W.E., etc., multi-cells are only obvious at high power, which isn't likely to happen except at stadiums.
As I previously posted, sectoral horns such as the 511 needs mass quantities of tweaking to sound close to a WG. The shortened 1.4" 511E with its vane damping wedges is much better though, requiring mostly just some throat cleaning up, heavy mouth perimeter damping.
If the 808 still has a Symbiotik diaphragm, need to replace with GPA 34647 alum. if still available and/or convert to the 26420 for higher power apps. Both need a terminal conversion kit.
GM
Big difference between 416-8A Vs 416-8B spec wise plus odds of finding OEM quality A series are pretty long and pricey, so the much more plentiful 8B, which can still be re-coned is a better choice overall if someone local can properly drain/zapp the AlNiCos, though the 8C with its ferrite [mud] motor is the most likely to still be in good shape, cheapest to re-cone, so best overall to my way of thinking if you don't need the 8B's mids higher power handling.
GM
Were original Altec 1" drivers sold with wrinkle coated cap, copper coloured magnet structure and terminals like the GPAs below ?
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thanks Ro808.
Beyma has no presence in Australia so prices are unattractively high if purchased direct from overseas after currency conversion and shipping (especially for large heavy bass drivers). Faital has very little presence, but there is 1 pro audio supplier who stocks 5-6 faital pro drivers and fortunately the 15PR400 is one of those items. They also usually stock HF108R 1" drivers, but currently none and no ETA.
Beyma has no presence in Australia so prices are unattractively high if purchased direct from overseas after currency conversion and shipping (especially for large heavy bass drivers). Faital has very little presence, but there is 1 pro audio supplier who stocks 5-6 faital pro drivers and fortunately the 15PR400 is one of those items. They also usually stock HF108R 1" drivers, but currently none and no ETA.
That's unfortunate. I just realized I could buy Beyma drivers to build a pair of the white German 2-way project for €75 more than the price of onbly 1 of the Monacor woofers they used.
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The ones I recall were a mild Hammertone finish, though heavily sprayed and especially if dipped, can look somewhat 'wrinkled' or maybe 'mottled' is a better description. The Wrinkle finish I've used looks like on valve covers, so maybe GPA decided to personalize it a bit, or more likely, save a little money using spray bombs as every Hammertone spray bomb I've tried didn't flow out nicely like when through a spray system.
No, magnets were the basic ferrite charcoal gray.
Different terminations occurred in '83 according to GPA, presumably a cost cutting change, but frankly didn't notice till buying some 909s many years later on closeout at the distributor along with their last pair of 802 ultralites since they were fed up and B0$3 made an offer they couldn't refuse.
Wanted so bad to clean them out, but circumstances being what they were/still are had to walk away. No clue what happened to it all....was epay or similar around back in '96?
GM
edit: just remembered that the original 802/808 coating [pre 802G] was called a 'crackle' finish, which is mildly rough with a ~uniform color.
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