actually that ofc audio cable from konig (good company btw bought cat 6 shielded cable from them) is 0.4mm and the one inside speaker is 0.5mm so it will be thinner thats why i asked will it cause a problem, also i wanted to use 0.4mm ofc for mid's and high's and 0.75mm ofc for dual voice coil sub, but first my plan is to cover all plastic walls (where is space) with polyfill to make it like actual speaker box where all walls are covered with polyfill, unlike one sheet they put inside it might same, it might make sound better for sub, since mids are enclosed in separate compartments and tweeters are enclosed by design, what i am thinking is to achieve full potential of amplifier to the speakers with less resistance in the way since i mainly use speaker on battery and i dont use it while its charging, also i dont throw away stock parts like wires or capacitors in case my ''mods'' make sound worse i'll put back ''stock'' parts and forget about ''modding'' itSorry if I sounded offhand. I don't think your questions are stupid. You are knowledgeable about some factors that may be important, but also should be aware of the full picture.
Sometimes making changes produce such minor differences that the task is not worthwhile. However, this is diyaudio and you can achieve satisfaction through experimentation.
I could easily tell you what you seem to want to hear - i.e. replace all the electrolytic capacitors with polypropylenes and replace all internal wiring with the thickest and most conductive you can find. However, I don't think you would benefit much if I did so.
since i was told in some forums and by person (who helped me with making TDA7293 70w rms amplifier, also IRFP9240 and IRFP240 mosfet 160w rms mono amplifier, a TL072 preamplifier with tone control, and dc protection circuit for speakers) that electrolytic capacitors are bad in audio path
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Re your idea to cover the internal walls with polyfill. If your intention is to stop the plastic walls vibrating with the force of the bass notes, then you'd be better off damping the walls with self adhesive sound deadening sheets like the ones you get for car speaker installations.
Damping Mats - Sound Deadening | Car Audio Direct
Since the cabinet is reflex loaded, polyfill should be kept well clear of the internal opening of the L- shaped bass tunnel, so as not to interfere with the air flow. This type of enclosure should not be completely filled with polyfill.
Damping Mats - Sound Deadening | Car Audio Direct
Since the cabinet is reflex loaded, polyfill should be kept well clear of the internal opening of the L- shaped bass tunnel, so as not to interfere with the air flow. This type of enclosure should not be completely filled with polyfill.
P.S. You can cut the sound deadening sheet into strips that will damp the vibrations of the cabinet while avoiding any obstacles that are in the way. It doesn't have to be applied in a continuous sheet.
You can always put polyfill on top, but it doesn't help much in absorbing bass frequencies anyway. And since your midrange speakers are in their own enclosures, their sound will not be helped by polyfill in the main cabinet.
You can always put polyfill on top, but it doesn't help much in absorbing bass frequencies anyway. And since your midrange speakers are in their own enclosures, their sound will not be helped by polyfill in the main cabinet.
this is how it looks with subwoofer speaker taken out Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181018_161736.jpg you can see polyfill sheet below speakers, here is other side of subwoofer speaker and its ''breathing'' hole Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181018_161919.jpg so, the polyfill was above the amplifier, the smps power supply and L shaped port. In between the speaker and L shaped port and covered that subwoofer ''breathing'' hole dunno, why it was like that, that sheet is about 12-15mm thick so, i want to take same thickness sheets and glue them temporary to the walls, not fill whole box with pillow size polyfill
The walls do not vibrate that much when its full blast and bass'y song it was before when plastic posts shattered and grill in the front was rattling to bass here look at Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181018_161730.jpg two right plastic posts where screws go from outer side to the inside of second plastic posts below for holding box together - see how they completely missing plastic ''pipe'' shape so what i did is i used superglue to do a surgery for plastic posts putting like 5 pieces of it together, then i Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181023_121900.jpg epoxy glued the nylon washers to prevent the plastic ''pipe'' posts from spreading out again,used more epoxy glue for holding those nylon washers, then used more for anywhere else i see cracked plastic - little plastic posts for holding subwoofer speaker, other side where screws go in to plastic posts was ok like 2 of 14 cracked i used there epoxy putty around them to hold it together and painted with epoxy glue since epoxy putty is clay and some small pieces can fall down when box vibrates so prevent that from happening, now it sounds good like no vibrating plastic, you can feel it but you can't hear it that loud as before. PS. mid's also have polyfill in their chambers https://www44.zippyshare.com/i/yTm74uaS/51231/IMG_20181022_230446.jpg
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Your woofer appears to have what is called a 'ventlated pole'. This allows air to flow around the woofer's voice coil, which helps keep it cool.
The white synthetic wadding is placed close to the rear of the woofer to damp the movement of its cone and help reduce 'boominess'. The type and amount of wadding will have been carefully chosen by the manufacturer - I would hope!
The white synthetic wadding is placed close to the rear of the woofer to damp the movement of its cone and help reduce 'boominess'. The type and amount of wadding will have been carefully chosen by the manufacturer - I would hope!
so you say me adding more padding to the walls will make it worse? i thought that sheet is blocking most of air from woofer to L shaped vent port... also too bad drivers have none of information other than woofer having JW and parts number and mid's having JW 20W 8ohms and Tweeters JW 10w 8 ohms
That sheet does not stop the air flow towards the port. I think it is there to add some acoustic resistance, which keeps the woofer cone under control and minimises overhang on the bass notes.
Making changes could well make the sound worse, so make sure you can return to the original placing, type and amount of wadding. I don't think putting more absorbent on the walls will do any harm though.
It's quite common for speaker drivers in this type of equipment not to carry much information. The majority of owners aren't expected to be taking the unit apart to have a look at the back of the drivers!
Making changes could well make the sound worse, so make sure you can return to the original placing, type and amount of wadding. I don't think putting more absorbent on the walls will do any harm though.
It's quite common for speaker drivers in this type of equipment not to carry much information. The majority of owners aren't expected to be taking the unit apart to have a look at the back of the drivers!
The Nichicon Muse Capacitors arrived and they are tiny compared to yontex in the crossover, for example nichicon 10uf 50v bipolar muse capacitor is 5-7 times smaller than yontex bipolar 10uf 50v on the crossover does it make a differenceThat sheet does not stop the air flow towards the port. I think it is there to add some acoustic resistance, which keeps the woofer cone under control and minimises overhang on the bass notes.
Making changes could well make the sound worse, so make sure you can return to the original placing, type and amount of wadding. I don't think putting more absorbent on the walls will do any harm though.
It's quite common for speaker drivers in this type of equipment not to carry much information. The majority of owners aren't expected to be taking the unit apart to have a look at the back of the drivers!
would test ESR but my ESR meter not arrived yet here is picture of Yontex bipolar caps in crossover Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181030_164603.jpg and here is brand new Nichicon Muse Bipolar electrolytic capacitors Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181105_131606.jpg
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Nichicon MUSE capacitors come in different types e.g. Fine Gold (FG). Which ones have you obtained?
Electrolytic capacitors just keep getting smaller and better all the time due to advances in materials.
If you'd like bigger caps with low ESR, you should go for polypropylenes like these:
10 fd Monacor MKP Capacitor
Electrolytic capacitors just keep getting smaller and better all the time due to advances in materials.
If you'd like bigger caps with low ESR, you should go for polypropylenes like these:
10 fd Monacor MKP Capacitor
I just read online and some DIY audio thread that ''muse'' capacitors are for low power audio signal and can't be used for high power audio signal stage such as crossovers, so got myself Nichicon blipolar electrolytics designed for crossovers used this Nichicon Electrolytic Capacitors | Hifi Collective as a guide page and i got these off ebay Nichicon GB & DB Type | Hifi Collective and no worries i'll use Muse capacitors somewhere else i might need in the future, they not going to bin - no way. Off topic but my Asus Xonar STX soundcard in my computer uses Nichicon Fige Gold capacitors - just fun fact
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I suggest you do just one of the pair of mid/tweeters first to see if the replacement capacitors actually do make a difference.
I can't understand why you are not buying polyprops, which are regarded as better caps to use in loudspeaker crossovers. Some research would substantiate that fact.
I can't understand why you are not buying polyprops, which are regarded as better caps to use in loudspeaker crossovers. Some research would substantiate that fact.
what other good brands are mkp, i remember when building amps and preamp with tone control i used mkt or mkp caps i had at hand, and i see on forums people suggest that even motor starter mkp cap will sound great lol, i only know of Visaton and Wima brands unlike eletrolytics where is Jamicon, Nichicon, Samxon, Philips etc.
I'd go for a metallised plastic film capacitor with a high voltage rating.
The higher the voltage rating, the larger the size of the capacitor, and the better it performs.
Note: MKT caps have a polyester dielectric, while MKP caps have a polypropylene dielectric. See reference below:
https://en.tdk-electronics.tdk.com/...1513474ba/pdf-generaltechnicalinformation.pdf
Search for different manufacturers - I've already suggested two - here's another:
10 fd SuperSound Capacitor
The higher the voltage rating, the larger the size of the capacitor, and the better it performs.
Note: MKT caps have a polyester dielectric, while MKP caps have a polypropylene dielectric. See reference below:
https://en.tdk-electronics.tdk.com/...1513474ba/pdf-generaltechnicalinformation.pdf
Search for different manufacturers - I've already suggested two - here's another:
10 fd SuperSound Capacitor
also which type of crossover would be here? Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181030_164638.jpg middle portion of crossover is not connected under ziptie, from in goes + via inductor to the ground via two caps of which in the middle is midrange +, tweeter has only one cap for it, no resistors whole crossover is just 3 caps and incductor ( one cap for tweeter and 2 caps + inductor for midrange) also you suggest replacing all 2.2uf, 4.7uf and 10uf caps with MKP ones will it be a problem? i could just buy simple 250v MKP caps and use them
my strungle trying to upgrade low end system with high end components, lol
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Remember, my favourite suggestion is NOT to bother changing the capacitors at all!You suggest replacing all 2.2uf, 4.7uf and 10uf caps with MKP ones will it be a problem? i could just buy simple 250v MKP caps and use them
The ONLY problem in fitting the MKP caps is that they may be too large to fit the space on the board, so check all the measurements before buying.
The midrange speaker will have a band pass filter (a combination of a high pass and a low pass filter). In its simplest form, a bandpass filter consists of a capacitor in series with an inductor, the combination being placed in series with the midrange speaker.
As you say, the tweeter will have a single series capacitor, acting as a high pass filter.
I can't tell how the third capacitor is wired just by looking at the rear of the board.
Looking closer, the two lower caps appear to be in parallel with each other. They would therefore add together and be equivalent to one larger capacitor for the bandpass filter. So I think there's effectively only two capacitors in the crossover, one for the tweeter and one for the midrange bandpass filter.
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but all of them are different rating here is top view Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181030_164603.jpg bottom is smallest 2.2uF 50v, middle one is 10uF 50v and top one is 4.7uF 50v - 4.7uF goes straight to tweeters... so you suggest that they needed capacitance which wasn't available in one capacitor package and thats why they added 10uF with 2.2uF for needed 12.2 or whatever capacitance was needed for midrange filtering? ps. subwoofer has active crossover
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Its something like this Zippyshare.com - IMG_20181106_145859.jpg i s*ck at drawing schematics
so you suggest that i can change all capacitors to polypropylene ones like wima mkp (example 4.7uF 250v) i think tweeter would like propylene cap dunno about midrange driver also 10uF will be harder to find when im not going for audiophile grade here spending like 15 bucks per smallest capacitor lol. All eletrolytic nichicon's DB series costed me only like 3-4 gbp or 5 bucks which is normal i would say if they give a bit better sound quality, i mainly want to replace those ''Yontex'' capacitors because materials used in cheap capacitors is not that good as like materials used in good brand cheapest capacitors, like for example nichicon cheapest series capacitors will have better material than some chinese unknown brand, and this affects audio signal by a lot i think, where is power it does not matter much, but where is audio i think i matters since amp maybe giving clear signal but cap is affecting it, inductor doesn't need to be changed since most of them are pretty much same just copper wire - it won't affect that much. PS fun fact my Konig 0.4mm OFC cable arrived yesterday and i compared it to 0.75mm CCA couple meters i got of ebay like a week ago, and 0.4mm is thicker cable than that ''0.75mm'' cable off ebay, Konig might not be audiophile brand but its good i can trust it.... also 1ft (30cm) cable of Konig OFC has 0.2-0.3ohms resistance while 0.5mm CSA (tin plated copper wire) inside Aiwa Exos 9 has above 1 ohm of resistance, and i read on audiophiles forums that cable resistance shoud be like 5% or 10% of the driver in this case 0.8ohms...
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