I'd like to build a speakers using affordable drivers like the kind you can get at Parts Express that's relatively efficient similar to the JBL L100T3's I have.
I've the designs at Troels web site and they do look very nice...but the drivers are fairly expensive. I've also seen the ones from many of the other web sites and they all look nice but the drivers in them are either pretty pricey or they are not efficient enough.
I'm asking because I'm putting together a Tubelab SSE amp that's not really a powerhouse amp.
I've the designs at Troels web site and they do look very nice...but the drivers are fairly expensive. I've also seen the ones from many of the other web sites and they all look nice but the drivers in them are either pretty pricey or they are not efficient enough.
I'm asking because I'm putting together a Tubelab SSE amp that's not really a powerhouse amp.
You've picked a number of difficulties. Cheap, three way, and efficient... 
If you could give up one or the other....
For instance, what about a coaxial from Eminence? Fairly high in the efficiency range, inexpensive, but 2 way.
If you must do a 3 way, how about starting with a 10" Beyma professional driver? Around 95 dB but you'll loose some of that in the baffle step. About $200 for the 10G40
Also, if you are designing it yourself, a 3 way speaker is twice as hard compared to a 2-way. You'll have to do a lot more work. If this is a new project I'd highly discourage you from designing your own.
Also look at Madisound and Meniscus kits.
Best,
Erik
If you could give up one or the other....For instance, what about a coaxial from Eminence? Fairly high in the efficiency range, inexpensive, but 2 way.
If you must do a 3 way, how about starting with a 10" Beyma professional driver? Around 95 dB but you'll loose some of that in the baffle step. About $200 for the 10G40
Also, if you are designing it yourself, a 3 way speaker is twice as hard compared to a 2-way. You'll have to do a lot more work. If this is a new project I'd highly discourage you from designing your own.
Also look at Madisound and Meniscus kits.
Best,
Erik
That looks like it's on the right track. Both low in cost and very efficient.
Excuse my ignorance but I imagine common sense should be what should help make the speaker selection make sense. Is the speaker efficiency specified on that webpage the rating it will have no matter what? Whether in a sealed enclosure, open baffle or tuned port enclosure. Does the efficiency of the other speakers I choose affect the efficiency of this woofer? Should the other speakers I select have that same rating? Or at least close to it?
Excuse my ignorance but I imagine common sense should be what should help make the speaker selection make sense. Is the speaker efficiency specified on that webpage the rating it will have no matter what? Whether in a sealed enclosure, open baffle or tuned port enclosure. Does the efficiency of the other speakers I choose affect the efficiency of this woofer? Should the other speakers I select have that same rating? Or at least close to it?
No. The issue with woofers is usually baffle step. You usually end up loosing some efficiency to get deep enough bass. You want tweeters to have equal or greater efficiency, so you can pad them down to match the woofer after the LP filter is applied. If your woofer is more efficient than your tweeter, you end up padding the driver that will have the highest power. In other words, padding the woofer wastes the most amount of power.
Take a look at the LM-1 thread, there's a simulation file there for the LM-1C. You can compare the "raw" driver with the driver after the crossover to get some idea. The LM-1 has barely any baffle step so it's a bad example.
Best,
Erik
The issue with woofers is usually baffle step. You usually end up loosing some efficiency to get deep enough bass. You want tweeters to have equal or greater efficiency, so you can pad them down to match the woofer after the LP filter is applied. If your woofer is more efficient than your tweeter, you end up padding the driver that will have the highest power. In other words, padding the woofer wastes the most amount of power. Take a look at the LM-1 thread, there's a simulation file there for the LM-1C. You can compare the "raw" driver with the driver after the crossover to get some idea. The LM-1 has barely any baffle step so it's a bad example.
Best,
Erik
Dayton Audio Project - Playground
70 litre BR, W=13", H=45", Fb=40 Hz, midrange delayed 20mm, woofer 50 mm.
Dayton measurements came in handy for a quick sim. Mid was simulated in a 7 litre
sealed box. Roundover 0.25", drivers vertically aligned in the centre of a baffle.
70 litre BR, W=13", H=45", Fb=40 Hz, midrange delayed 20mm, woofer 50 mm.
Dayton measurements came in handy for a quick sim. Mid was simulated in a 7 litre
sealed box. Roundover 0.25", drivers vertically aligned in the centre of a baffle.
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what is the price of affordable I built the sse and love the amp. the better the preamp the better the sound I was running it straight threw my iphone and then built the dougself preamp threw the group buy her at diy and gained a lot off punch and headroom MY speakers are bob brines design using 8 inch full range tangbangs and can rattle the house, play soft jazz and give good voices your build is something I have been thinking about and looking at troels stuff save your money and go for the best it will last as your taste changes
I have an Akido ACF-2 Tube Buffer based on John Broskie's Tubecad PCB. I also have a Parasound SS preamp but I was hoping to keep my SSE based system all tube and DIY. Though I also have a McIntosh C39 I could try or a Cary SLP100.
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I'm open to hearing other suggestions.
Though I have another question.
Why can't I try using more efficient drivers in an open baffle design?
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I'm open to hearing other suggestions.
Though I have another question.
Why can't I try using more efficient drivers in an open baffle design?
You can build a 2-way EconoWave speaker with the info in post#9 for about $250-each in parts with ~45Hz in-room bass from a 3cuft ported cabinet. You would have the later option of sealing this midbass cabinet and adding a real 18" woofer for deep bass even an 8-watt amp can generate. Use big box wood shop skills to construct low cost high efficiency speakers.
95db/watt efficiency, plus high frequency controlled directivity.
2-way EconoWave speaker ~$240 for speakers + crossovers each.
-Dayton SEOS12 waveguide ($14)
-Dayton 250P compression driver ($40)
-Eminence Delta Pro 12A ($130)
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