Crossover 3-Way 8 Ohm 800/5,000 Hz 100W
Are these way too cheap? I'm building a set of speakers with
I'm planning to pad the tweeter with a pair of resistors, but that's it.
The idea is to make an "okay" set of speakers, hopefully better than the JBL micro-surround system we have now, on the cheap.
Are these way too cheap? I'm building a set of speakers with
I'm planning to pad the tweeter with a pair of resistors, but that's it.
The idea is to make an "okay" set of speakers, hopefully better than the JBL micro-surround system we have now, on the cheap.
I'm planning to make the outside dimensions of the box 2.5" wide, 22.5" tall, at least for the fronts. That way, it will match the TV quite well.
What about 1xPeerless 830855 as a woofer?
Right now, I actually have one of each of the JVC drivers and the ND20fa up front, and they don't sound too bad. The little thing sticking off the top of the enclosure the JVC comes in is a piece of cardboard glued in. I pushed that out and pressed the ND20fa into it, and put a 2.2uF cap on the ND20fa. Way too much trebel right now, but I haven't gotten around to padding it yet. Anyway, once I'm at four rather than one JVC, shouldn't need as much padding.
I intend to make the whole thing out of 1/4" mdf with a bit of bracing. The JVCs and Dayton will share a 2"x22"x1.5" sealed box, and the Peerless will get a 2"x22"x3.75" box ported to 63Hz with two 1" long .7"x.25" ports on either side of the tweeter.
What about 1xPeerless 830855 as a woofer?
Right now, I actually have one of each of the JVC drivers and the ND20fa up front, and they don't sound too bad. The little thing sticking off the top of the enclosure the JVC comes in is a piece of cardboard glued in. I pushed that out and pressed the ND20fa into it, and put a 2.2uF cap on the ND20fa. Way too much trebel right now, but I haven't gotten around to padding it yet. Anyway, once I'm at four rather than one JVC, shouldn't need as much padding.
I intend to make the whole thing out of 1/4" mdf with a bit of bracing. The JVCs and Dayton will share a 2"x22"x1.5" sealed box, and the Peerless will get a 2"x22"x3.75" box ported to 63Hz with two 1" long .7"x.25" ports on either side of the tweeter.
You know, the verry first problem You will face with that crossover is:
it will not do what You would expect from it to do.
Passive Crossover Network Design
The above article will show You why.
I can absolute guarantee if You just purchase an xover, it will do You not good at all.
Probably You Should follow the article, and design Your own, with the mentioned impedance correction networks.
Then it will be close to what You want on paper.
And who knows, You might even find more suitable xover points for Your system.
Anyways, You want it cheap, right?
now let me see Your budget first.
2xPeerless India W3-LK76-PBK will cost like 11$
4xJVC 1" x 4" Full Range should be like no more than 8 $
1xDayton ND20fa is around 7$.
Now, let us sum it up, it yields whooping 26 $.
now do not get me wrong, budget system IS a budget system.
So lets look at what we could get for that money
I would go for a 2way system.
Less problematic to design, and less needs to spent on drivers.
Phenolic Ring Tweeter 4 Ohm
thats not a too bad tweeter for this price IMHO.
1078 Hz Fs *hints* that a 2nd order crossover at around bit over 2 Khz will be fine for this thingy.
7$ we spent, so we got 19 $ for a suitable midbass unit.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-219http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-305
That looks like a good bang for them bucks!
17$, and it will probably do just fine with the 2Khz -ish xover point.
0.361cuFt, and tuned to somewhere bit under 50 hz it will give you a verry decent sound down to somewhere 50-60 hz.
If you ask me its the way to go.
The woofer has sufficent documentation to create a proper impedance correction network for it, and the tweeter might just get away without it.
it will not do what You would expect from it to do.
Passive Crossover Network Design
The above article will show You why.
I can absolute guarantee if You just purchase an xover, it will do You not good at all.
Probably You Should follow the article, and design Your own, with the mentioned impedance correction networks.
Then it will be close to what You want on paper.
And who knows, You might even find more suitable xover points for Your system.
Anyways, You want it cheap, right?
now let me see Your budget first.
2xPeerless India W3-LK76-PBK will cost like 11$
4xJVC 1" x 4" Full Range should be like no more than 8 $
1xDayton ND20fa is around 7$.
Now, let us sum it up, it yields whooping 26 $.
now do not get me wrong, budget system IS a budget system.
So lets look at what we could get for that money
I would go for a 2way system.
Less problematic to design, and less needs to spent on drivers.
Phenolic Ring Tweeter 4 Ohm
thats not a too bad tweeter for this price IMHO.
1078 Hz Fs *hints* that a 2nd order crossover at around bit over 2 Khz will be fine for this thingy.
7$ we spent, so we got 19 $ for a suitable midbass unit.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-219http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-305
That looks like a good bang for them bucks!
17$, and it will probably do just fine with the 2Khz -ish xover point.
0.361cuFt, and tuned to somewhere bit under 50 hz it will give you a verry decent sound down to somewhere 50-60 hz.
If you ask me its the way to go.
The woofer has sufficent documentation to create a proper impedance correction network for it, and the tweeter might just get away without it.
absolutely, yes
a 3way is basicly 'not really a budget approach'
a 2way will sound better, almost by itself
hi tinitus! http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/121385-loudspeakers-room-system-155.html#post2509339 - pleeeeeease!
at worse one thing is sure.
a single 6.5" midbass will be better than 2x 3" ones.
those will not realy go under 100 hz or so.
Thisone will go down to 50ish.
bass is just 1 thing.
but still, i would strongy advice to stick to 2 way designs.
creating an xover for a 3 way system is a major headache.
purchasing an off the shelf xover for a 3 way system is most likely be disapointing at the end.
a single 6.5" midbass will be better than 2x 3" ones.
those will not realy go under 100 hz or so.
Thisone will go down to 50ish.
bass is just 1 thing.
but still, i would strongy advice to stick to 2 way designs.
creating an xover for a 3 way system is a major headache.
purchasing an off the shelf xover for a 3 way system is most likely be disapointing at the end.
hi tinitus! http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/121385-loudspeakers-room-system-155.html#post2509339 - pleeeeeease!
hey graaf, havent read that thread
I will look into your kind request
sorry guys, just a small offtopic note to graaf
Ok, I'll read that after work tonight.
Part of the reason to go 3-way is to have the woofer limited to frequencies where putting it on the side won't matter.
Looking at 1xPeerless 830855 now, $12.
4*$1.75=$7
That's slightly more expensive than the tweeter I picked out, and a "last faithful reproduction" of what, from my reading, is actually not that good. Specs say it's good down to 2khz. ND20FA is good down to 3.5Khz. Also, since diaphragm is wider, I expect more sound beaming. JVC1x4s have pretty decent on-axis treble, but it falls off when off-axis in the long direction. The tweeter is to help that since the TV is mounted up high.1xDayton ND20fa is around 7$.
Now, let us sum it up, it yields whooping 26 $.
now do not get me wrong, budget system IS a budget system.
So lets look at what we could get for that money
I would go for a 2way system.
Less problematic to design, and less needs to spent on drivers.
Phenolic Ring Tweeter 4 Ohm
thats not a too bad tweeter for this price IMHO.
1078 Hz Fs *hints* that a 2nd order crossover at around bit over 2 Khz will be fine for this thingy.
Since it's a 6.5" woofer being used in midrange, it must be pointed out and can't be side-firing like I was planning with the woofer in my three-way. Anyway, this is to replace satellites in a JBL Micro-speaker system. Also, I can't use that woofer in my 3-way design because the mounting depth is too deep to fit in a 2.5" wide box.
I could measure impedance/phase of the speakers if I want to, but I don't think it'll take much to beat the pants off the JBL microsystem.
You need to match the SPL levels of all the drivers. The JVC thing is way down there, only 80dB. The ND20FA is a good tweeter. I just bought a dozen of the ND20FB
A nice two way is smarter/better. A 6 1/2 inch woofer and 1 inch dome tweeter is the epitome of a two way. Stay away from the phenolic ring tweeter and get a 1 inch dome tweeter instead of a 3/4 inch dome tweeter.
Lots of plans/kits available. Have you been over to the Madisound website? The have a two way kit featuring AURA woofers and VIFA tweeters along with a high quality custom dedicated crossover.
---->https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=9038
A nice two way is smarter/better. A 6 1/2 inch woofer and 1 inch dome tweeter is the epitome of a two way. Stay away from the phenolic ring tweeter and get a 1 inch dome tweeter instead of a 3/4 inch dome tweeter.
Lots of plans/kits available. Have you been over to the Madisound website? The have a two way kit featuring AURA woofers and VIFA tweeters along with a high quality custom dedicated crossover.
---->https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=9038
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Peerless India W3-LK76-PBK
You'll get absolutely no bass from those small PEERLESS drivers. Maybe you should consider something slightly bigger? How about some 5 inch woofers?
You'll get absolutely no bass from those small PEERLESS drivers. Maybe you should consider something slightly bigger? How about some 5 inch woofers?
Peerless 830855 4" SDS Midwoofer
Yes, that one is a better small woofer.
You seem to be more intent on building something for looks as opposed to sound quality. Do whatever you want, but a simple two way with either one or two small woofers and a nice tweeter will exceed your expectations without overly complicating it.
Since you want something skinny and tall, have you considered an array of small full range drivers? Real full range drivers, not those JVC things.
Yes, that one is a better small woofer.
You seem to be more intent on building something for looks as opposed to sound quality. Do whatever you want, but a simple two way with either one or two small woofers and a nice tweeter will exceed your expectations without overly complicating it.
Since you want something skinny and tall, have you considered an array of small full range drivers? Real full range drivers, not those JVC things.
Somewhat looks, but I'm trying to put some engineering effort into it too.
Real full range, such as a HiVi B2S? The B2S has lower efficiency, worse bass, and similar power handling to the JVCs, but is significantly more expensive. I don't want to go much wider than that, either. To get similar efficiency to the JVCs, I would need 8 per side, so that's $91 per side. If I went with four per side, that would still be $45 and far above the $26/speaker of the current plan.
The smallest reasonable full-range speakers seem to be 3", and that's wider than I'd like.
I was fortunate enough to pick up 30 pcs. of the TangBand W3-319S for $7 ea.
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-819
the idea behind the tweeter i suggested is mainly its Fs.
The ND20FA has around 2khz Fs, meaning You should not cross it under 4 Khz with 2nd order filter.
I did look at the mentioned 4" peerles driver.
60hz or so at -3 dBL is not that bad.
The 12 watt maximum powerhandling is what prevented me to recommend them.
and the (in)efficiency of 85 or so dBL.
the 6.5 " midbass i would purchase *if i was you* does not realy go with the 4khz -ish xover point.
Those are my reasons to go for the phenolic ring tweeter, as it can be matched with the 6.5 " midbass.
The other problem with a load of inexpensive drivers stocked in a box type designs is usualy:
phase problems, freqvency cancellations , not to mention it can -but not allways- mess up on and off axis responce.
The ND20FA has around 2khz Fs, meaning You should not cross it under 4 Khz with 2nd order filter.
I did look at the mentioned 4" peerles driver.
60hz or so at -3 dBL is not that bad.
The 12 watt maximum powerhandling is what prevented me to recommend them.
and the (in)efficiency of 85 or so dBL.
the 6.5 " midbass i would purchase *if i was you* does not realy go with the 4khz -ish xover point.
Those are my reasons to go for the phenolic ring tweeter, as it can be matched with the 6.5 " midbass.
The other problem with a load of inexpensive drivers stocked in a box type designs is usualy:
phase problems, freqvency cancellations , not to mention it can -but not allways- mess up on and off axis responce.
the kit is way over the budget.
I think if i was to build with higher budget i would probably get a 6.5" midbass, and probably this:
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=1679
tweeter to be honest.
1" ones may not be crossed low enough -depending on filter order, but anything more complex than 2nd order LR is not my fashion-.
Plenty of ~one inch dome tweeters that can be crossed below 2KHz, you just have to be willing to pay for them.
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