Hello all!
Im new on the forum and more or less new in HIFI world.
Im also a carpenter and have my own shop so i decide to make some speakers for me
Right now i have pair of AR18EJ and Pioneer SA-608. So,nothing special.
I want to upgrade to Dallas II loaded with Fostex FE206EN and Monocor HT 958 PA/SI.And afkors class A tube amp.
Tweeters i find cheep,unused so i decide to upgrade high spectrum right away.
So,i have few question.
1.For tweeter i order SCR Silver MKP Capacitor, 0.68µF, AgM serie (700VDC),is that good choice?
2.For damping in back of speaker,can i use
Pair of damping foam, dimensions 100 x 50 cm each, 20 mm thick
?
Or its better for this use
Pair of daming wool, 100% polyester, white, 24.8 x 13 x 1.38 inch each
or
100Pcs Magic Sponge Eraser Melamine Foam Stain Dirt Mark Remover Cleaning Block | eBay
?
Some guys say this melamin foam is the best for back of the speaker.
3.For filling empty places in box,is it ok to fill it with polyester damping wool?
I see some guys say that the best,in low budgett is regular cotton wool,better than polyester.
4.For lower filling part of speaker,triangular one,is it ok to fill it with quartz sand to get nice stability?
I dont know if i lose something with sand,but my logic tells me it can only benefit the overall sound.
This are main question what i have.
I study for some long time Dallas II and Dallas III design.
Dallas III looks much nicer but i cant find enough feedback about how this cabinet works.It looks to me it can work only better than Dallas II.
But for now,i decide to make things easy as posible and build Dallas II.
I find some error in drawings.I take all diferent srawings from internet and make a new one.The error was on the places where horn is folded.
So i corect this places and make it nice,parallel and in constant expanding.
The worst was first fold of horn.There was horn going from 52mm to 38mm and then expanding again to 52mm.
Im gona put some pictures so you can see what i change from redrawn plans from 2013.
What do you think?
Yelow are new board position and added boards,green is old from 2013 redraw.
I make complet plans 2D and 3D,and im gona make board cutting list,so this is my contribute to all of you and all new builders to make thing easyer for buiding.
Can i upload somewhere this plans?
Or i can send it to you on email.
And sorry for not so good english!
Cheers!
Im new on the forum and more or less new in HIFI world.
Im also a carpenter and have my own shop so i decide to make some speakers for me
Right now i have pair of AR18EJ and Pioneer SA-608. So,nothing special.
I want to upgrade to Dallas II loaded with Fostex FE206EN and Monocor HT 958 PA/SI.And afkors class A tube amp.
Tweeters i find cheep,unused so i decide to upgrade high spectrum right away.
So,i have few question.
1.For tweeter i order SCR Silver MKP Capacitor, 0.68µF, AgM serie (700VDC),is that good choice?
2.For damping in back of speaker,can i use
Pair of damping foam, dimensions 100 x 50 cm each, 20 mm thick
?
Or its better for this use
Pair of daming wool, 100% polyester, white, 24.8 x 13 x 1.38 inch each
or
100Pcs Magic Sponge Eraser Melamine Foam Stain Dirt Mark Remover Cleaning Block | eBay
?
Some guys say this melamin foam is the best for back of the speaker.
3.For filling empty places in box,is it ok to fill it with polyester damping wool?
I see some guys say that the best,in low budgett is regular cotton wool,better than polyester.
4.For lower filling part of speaker,triangular one,is it ok to fill it with quartz sand to get nice stability?
I dont know if i lose something with sand,but my logic tells me it can only benefit the overall sound.
This are main question what i have.
I study for some long time Dallas II and Dallas III design.
Dallas III looks much nicer but i cant find enough feedback about how this cabinet works.It looks to me it can work only better than Dallas II.
But for now,i decide to make things easy as posible and build Dallas II.
I find some error in drawings.I take all diferent srawings from internet and make a new one.The error was on the places where horn is folded.
So i corect this places and make it nice,parallel and in constant expanding.
The worst was first fold of horn.There was horn going from 52mm to 38mm and then expanding again to 52mm.
Im gona put some pictures so you can see what i change from redrawn plans from 2013.
What do you think?
Yelow are new board position and added boards,green is old from 2013 redraw.
I make complet plans 2D and 3D,and im gona make board cutting list,so this is my contribute to all of you and all new builders to make thing easyer for buiding.
Can i upload somewhere this plans?
Or i can send it to you on email.
And sorry for not so good english!
Cheers!
Last edited:
Your English is fine, so you have nothing to worry about there.
It's an MKP capacitor, so it will work fine.
Any will work in the sense of providing some damping. Something like Ultratouch recycled denim, SAE-F10 rated felt are arguably a little closer in properties to the original used.
You can, although mass-loading with dried silver-sand would be preferable. Alternatively, expanding foam out of a can will provide an effective fill.
Providing it's thoroughly dried. Antibacterial cat litter (ditto) is a good alternative. Led shot also albeit with the obvious downside.
There is no such thing as a Dallas III as such. Ron designed Dallas and Dallas II. 'Dallas III' was basically somebody else who took the Dallas II and smoothed it out, which did not necessarily translate to superior performance as the acoustic low-pass ended up being a little shallower.
The existing plans are all that was saved from a hard-disc crash Ron had about 15 years ago, so there are some issues; if you wish to forward any suggestions to Dave at Planet10, he'll be able to look them over & possibly add a link etc.; many thanks for your work in revising etc.
It's an MKP capacitor, so it will work fine.
Any will work in the sense of providing some damping. Something like Ultratouch recycled denim, SAE-F10 rated felt are arguably a little closer in properties to the original used.
You can, although mass-loading with dried silver-sand would be preferable. Alternatively, expanding foam out of a can will provide an effective fill.
Providing it's thoroughly dried. Antibacterial cat litter (ditto) is a good alternative. Led shot also albeit with the obvious downside.
There is no such thing as a Dallas III as such. Ron designed Dallas and Dallas II. 'Dallas III' was basically somebody else who took the Dallas II and smoothed it out, which did not necessarily translate to superior performance as the acoustic low-pass ended up being a little shallower.
The existing plans are all that was saved from a hard-disc crash Ron had about 15 years ago, so there are some issues; if you wish to forward any suggestions to Dave at Planet10, he'll be able to look them over & possibly add a link etc.; many thanks for your work in revising etc.
Scottmoose thank you for your help!
How thick felt must be for this use behind speaker?
My logic tells me from begining that PU foam from can is great for damping this places,but one audiophil guy said to me that he never heard that you can use foam instead of wool.
But to me sounds like foam is better than wool because is more compact and connected to the all surface of "pocket".
What do you think,is PU foam from can better then polyester wool?
Do you have mail adress from Dave?
I can not send a mail trough "Outlook" and this is only option which i get by clicking on "Mail us".
How thick felt must be for this use behind speaker?
My logic tells me from begining that PU foam from can is great for damping this places,but one audiophil guy said to me that he never heard that you can use foam instead of wool.
But to me sounds like foam is better than wool because is more compact and connected to the all surface of "pocket".
What do you think,is PU foam from can better then polyester wool?
Do you have mail adress from Dave?
I can not send a mail trough "Outlook" and this is only option which i get by clicking on "Mail us".
Indeed. It looked really pretty but as subsequent research has shown removing the small expansions at the bends allows more (unwanted HF) to exit the mouth.
dave
Attachments
Dave,thank you!
And what about fine quartz sand,is that good for damping pockets?
And what you think about my changes on 2013. dallas II plans?
What is better to make,from 2013. plans or with my "improvement"?
And what about fine quartz sand,is that good for damping pockets?
And what you think about my changes on 2013. dallas II plans?
What is better to make,from 2013. plans or with my "improvement"?
So i find some guy,and he learn me how to calculate what type of capacitor i need.
For this tweeter,the best is 5uF if i want to cut it at 4,4kHz.
But maybe i will put cca 6 uF to cut it around 3,5 kHz.
I try diferent valuves of capacitor today,and sound is realy rich and full with help of tweeter.
FE206 play niceley,but with tweeter is totaly diferent story,chrispy,clean and powerful highs make sound picture full and detailed.
For this tweeter,the best is 5uF if i want to cut it at 4,4kHz.
But maybe i will put cca 6 uF to cut it around 3,5 kHz.
I try diferent valuves of capacitor today,and sound is realy rich and full with help of tweeter.
FE206 play niceley,but with tweeter is totaly diferent story,chrispy,clean and powerful highs make sound picture full and detailed.
Assuming a flat electrical impedance, yes. Since the tweeters typically do not have a flat electrical impedance, be careful you don't overload. A simple series cap provides very little protection to the tweeter (excursion will continue to increase below the crossover frequency), and distortion will rise quite quickly toward the bottom end, so this is something to keep in mind.
Thanks for advice Scottmoose,maybe i try with 4,7 uF capacitor.It will cut at 3700-3800Hz so maybe i go with that if will work nice.
And now after few days of listening with 6,8 uF,i think that tweeters are litle to loud.
Its hard to say without Dallas II how will sound in the end,but for now on open baffle variant,tweeters are litle to loud for FE206NV.
4,7 uF sound like best choise...
And now after few days of listening with 6,8 uF,i think that tweeters are litle to loud.
Its hard to say without Dallas II how will sound in the end,but for now on open baffle variant,tweeters are litle to loud for FE206NV.
4,7 uF sound like best choise...
So,finally,boxes are glued and finished. Its hard not to put them in my living room and dont care about cosmetic look.But,if i do that now,probably i will never finish them.I try one just for short time,just with fostex,and the sound is delicious!
I fill the empty pockets with dried quartz sand,and seald pockets before puting sand with MS polymer 40 and 15.First i work with MS40,but on second one i realize its much easier with MS15.Raely messy and sticky job,but i want to seal it and to be sure that no moisture will ever go inside sand.
One box have around 17kg of sand,so for now,one box have 53 kg.
I will put teak veener on the outside,paint black horn mouth,botton and back,and put mesh just to protect them from kids when they are not playing.
With drivers and everything,one box will be around 60 kg.
They are glued,screwd and naild HC,so if nuclear war start,i will hide inside one and survive
Here are some pictures of work.Sorry for very bad phone,camera is not so good.
I dont know why i cant upload photos here,but here is link to album uploaded on IBB.
Dallas II — ImgBB
I fill the empty pockets with dried quartz sand,and seald pockets before puting sand with MS polymer 40 and 15.First i work with MS40,but on second one i realize its much easier with MS15.Raely messy and sticky job,but i want to seal it and to be sure that no moisture will ever go inside sand.
One box have around 17kg of sand,so for now,one box have 53 kg.
I will put teak veener on the outside,paint black horn mouth,botton and back,and put mesh just to protect them from kids when they are not playing.
With drivers and everything,one box will be around 60 kg.
They are glued,screwd and naild HC,so if nuclear war start,i will hide inside one and survive
Here are some pictures of work.Sorry for very bad phone,camera is not so good.
I dont know why i cant upload photos here,but here is link to album uploaded on IBB.
Dallas II — ImgBB
And here Dallas II plans — ImgBB are plans with mesurments if somebody needs.
I can also send .dwg 3D model if somebody needs.
I can also send .dwg 3D model if somebody needs.
Dallas II finished!
It look good,sound par excellence.Without tweeter,sound is nice,but with tweeter is heven.Clear,rich,defined.
Bass is not massive,so for dub music and similar Dallas II is not the best choice,but for acoustics,vocal,softer rock,jazz,this speakers are heven in compare price/sound.
I only try them with solid state amp,and cyrus dad3 cd player.
Paint and lacquer are still very smelly so i dont want to put them in my apartment,i have small chilld.But for week or so,when i connect them with SE EIMAC 100 TH monoblocks,then i will hear what realy they can produce.
In the end of story,they wil be in permanent setup with SE KT88 amp.
I think they will sound great with KT88.
EIMAC 100 TH are little to strong and to good for this speakers.
Im gona put some video and pictures with monoblocks in week,or 2...
Big thanks to Ron Clarke for design and guys who redraw this plans.
It look good,sound par excellence.Without tweeter,sound is nice,but with tweeter is heven.Clear,rich,defined.
Bass is not massive,so for dub music and similar Dallas II is not the best choice,but for acoustics,vocal,softer rock,jazz,this speakers are heven in compare price/sound.
I only try them with solid state amp,and cyrus dad3 cd player.
Paint and lacquer are still very smelly so i dont want to put them in my apartment,i have small chilld.But for week or so,when i connect them with SE EIMAC 100 TH monoblocks,then i will hear what realy they can produce.
In the end of story,they wil be in permanent setup with SE KT88 amp.
I think they will sound great with KT88.
EIMAC 100 TH are little to strong and to good for this speakers.
Im gona put some video and pictures with monoblocks in week,or 2...
Big thanks to Ron Clarke for design and guys who redraw this plans.
