I have acquired a pair of Dayton PS220 (8" Full range with a wheezer cone and a very stylish looking copper colored phase plug).
I am looking for suggestions as to what type of build would be suitable for this Fullrange driver. Any pointers to existing or new design or design ideas are welcome. Anything from sealed, porter, MLTL, F.A.S.T or OB or anytingelse.
I am of course aware of Curt's Singularity and know that it is a very nice and simple build and might probably end up building it. But am looking forward to see if there are any other ideas or designs around this driver.
Thanks and Regards
Ani
I am looking for suggestions as to what type of build would be suitable for this Fullrange driver. Any pointers to existing or new design or design ideas are welcome. Anything from sealed, porter, MLTL, F.A.S.T or OB or anytingelse.
I am of course aware of Curt's Singularity and know that it is a very nice and simple build and might probably end up building it. But am looking forward to see if there are any other ideas or designs around this driver.
Thanks and Regards
Ani
I believe Greg B's "Karlsonator8" would work (there's a larger version of the plan in his stupidhifitricks Google folder)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...0g/hi5Qd7SIw6Q/w878-h690-no/Karlsonator-8.png
here's the first build of that cabinet (the aperture could be extended higher)
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.645456515500837.1073741837.601735219872967&type=3
also, PS220 should work in a classic Karlson K12. It would work in some MLTL - amplifier output impedance should be figured into its parameters.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...0g/hi5Qd7SIw6Q/w878-h690-no/Karlsonator-8.png
here's the first build of that cabinet (the aperture could be extended higher)
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.645456515500837.1073741837.601735219872967&type=3
also, PS220 should work in a classic Karlson K12. It would work in some MLTL - amplifier output impedance should be figured into its parameters.
+1 on the Karlsonator it sims very well and achieves nice bass extension and has great dynamics with a clean impulse response.
HI
Thanks for the links
Is there any specific modelling for the PS-220 - do i need to change anything or just go for the 8" version?
Thanks for the links
Is there any specific modelling for the PS-220 - do i need to change anything or just go for the 8" version?
xrk modeled it a little time back. Look through this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/256024-daytons-ps220-does-have-450hz-dip-not.html
Based on my experience, I would expect some differences in real life measurements vs sims. I suspect this is due to the 3d nature of real boxes vs the 2d model.
Anyway, that first dip (at 200) just isn't showing up, or is much reduced. The HF response will be shelved down slightly compared to what the prediction shows. You will probably be able to get away without a contour filter.
Based on my experience, I would expect some differences in real life measurements vs sims. I suspect this is due to the 3d nature of real boxes vs the 2d model.
Anyway, that first dip (at 200) just isn't showing up, or is much reduced. The HF response will be shelved down slightly compared to what the prediction shows. You will probably be able to get away without a contour filter.
fwiw , here's thejessman's outdoor graph of a Visaton BG20 in the Karlsonator 8 vs the Karlsonator 12 - - I don't know how much smoothing he employed but the response looks pretty good. The lack of top end comes from mic being outside of the narrow high frequency lobe. In my cramped indoor quarters and classic Karlson 12, BG20 is a low frequency (~50Hz to 1KHz) "equivalent" to Beta10cx. A "Karlsonator10" could be real cool for Beta10cx and compression driver.
I think Jesse had the Karlsonator8's stub lined and perhaps nothing in the Karlsonator12's stub. In practice the stub might be lightly stuffed with polyfil. (Hey Greg B and xrk971 - would adding two inches of width to the Karlsonator8 be sufficient to convert it to a good Karlsonator10 for Beta10cx? - if so then could be pretty punchy for home theater)
I think Jesse had the Karlsonator8's stub lined and perhaps nothing in the Karlsonator12's stub. In practice the stub might be lightly stuffed with polyfil. (Hey Greg B and xrk971 - would adding two inches of width to the Karlsonator8 be sufficient to convert it to a good Karlsonator10 for Beta10cx? - if so then could be pretty punchy for home theater)
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That seemed about right when I took a cursory look at this question before. I didn't run any sims though, and of course I don't have xrk's ultra-cool akabak script. 😉
Just don't try to run a nouveau APT50 in them suckers. BTW, has anyone tried a PSD2002 in any of the Eminence coaxials? That would probably be a pretty good with the Beta10CX crossed at 1.5kHz or so.
FWIW, here's the somewhat 'fat' 35 Hz MLTL I simmed for myself using measuring specs awhile back, but haven't been able to build it yet:
L = 60"
CSA = 164.5"^2 [suggest 16.312” W x 10.09” D]
zdriver = 22.63"
zport = 51.43"
dport = 5"
lport = 0.75"
All dims inside [i.d.] and approximate and simmed with minimal damping.
GM
L = 60"
CSA = 164.5"^2 [suggest 16.312” W x 10.09” D]
zdriver = 22.63"
zport = 51.43"
dport = 5"
lport = 0.75"
All dims inside [i.d.] and approximate and simmed with minimal damping.
GM
Attachments
Is this for the PS220 diver? If i am interpreting it correctly
the Length is to be 60"
is the CSA the cabinet width and depth? Can they be interchanged to get a slimmer cabinet or the dimensions important for the MLTL?
The zdriver and the zport are the position of the driver and port o nthe 60" lenght? and the dport and lport are the port dimensions. So for 3/4 mdf, just a 5 inch hole would do for a port?
Thanks and Regards
Ani
Correct.
Correct.
CSA = cross sectional area, i.e. width x depth. Yes, though some [more] baffle step correction [BSC] may be required due to the very narrow baffle width. More padding may be required on the rear panel behind the driver due to the increased distance also.
Correct, both measured from the inside top.
Correct, though I normally use a ¾” long ‘insert’ of PVC or heavy duty cardboard tubing that can be slid out if I want to tune the cab a little higher [no insert] or tune it lower [longer insert, which often happens]; just make sure it has a good seal using Blu-Tack or = to ensure proper ¼ WL pipe and vent tube loading. BTW, no need to slide it in all the way in for testing, so leave enough hanging out to allow easy sealing, removal.
In retrospect though, you may prefer a higher tuning to get a nice bass ‘bloom’. If so, then start with a 6” dia. vent [or metric =] to experiment with and for reference, at ~2.75” long it should have the same tuning as the 5” dia. x ¾” long vent.
You’re welcome! If you build it, please let us know how it turned out; good, bad or indifferent and what tuning, ‘refinement’, if any, was required.
GM
Correct.
CSA = cross sectional area, i.e. width x depth. Yes, though some [more] baffle step correction [BSC] may be required due to the very narrow baffle width. More padding may be required on the rear panel behind the driver due to the increased distance also.
Correct, both measured from the inside top.
Correct, though I normally use a ¾” long ‘insert’ of PVC or heavy duty cardboard tubing that can be slid out if I want to tune the cab a little higher [no insert] or tune it lower [longer insert, which often happens]; just make sure it has a good seal using Blu-Tack or = to ensure proper ¼ WL pipe and vent tube loading. BTW, no need to slide it in all the way in for testing, so leave enough hanging out to allow easy sealing, removal.
In retrospect though, you may prefer a higher tuning to get a nice bass ‘bloom’. If so, then start with a 6” dia. vent [or metric =] to experiment with and for reference, at ~2.75” long it should have the same tuning as the 5” dia. x ¾” long vent.
You’re welcome! If you build it, please let us know how it turned out; good, bad or indifferent and what tuning, ‘refinement
GM
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