Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[RCruz]

Can not identify U210 and not sure about U214.... can you place me in the schematics ?

Regards

Hi

I found the U210 and U214-

Should I remove all the resistors in the output R657 658 659 620 ?

Can I bypass everything and pull a wire (screened) from U210 214 directly to the output ???

 

[Fidelity Audio]

I would have thought R651 652 653 654 are already removed on yours as these supply the HDAM which you dont have.So dont worry about them.

Yes you bypass it all from the Uxxx to the output sockets

Brent

 

[Fidelity Audio]

Oh R657 658 659 660

I would leave them in to be honest. I have found no gains or losses leaving or removing them

Brent

 

[6h5c]

Jitter measurement

Excellent Ray, will there be measurements of a standard and/or modded CD63/7?

Simon

As promised: here's a jitter measurement on the clock signal of a standard CD57. In this post the histogram was given for The Flea mounted in an ezDAC.

Regards,

Ray

 

[6h5c]

Jitter measurement

For easy comparison: here's the previous one again:

 

[6h5c]

It's easy to see the histogram is much worse for the first one, even with the horizontal scale being twice as big (1ns vs. 500ps). If it would be equal, the first one would be twice as wide .

 

[SimontY]

Excellent work Ray, it's very clear to see the signal is much tighter on the aftermarket clock.

Simon

 

[6h5c]

Excellent work Ray, it's very clear to see the signal is much tighter on the aftermarket clock.

Simon

Thanks Simon. At least this is some hard proof considering the clock signal. A whole different story is to translate how this may affect the sound. I remember reading a piece on TNT where they deliberately injected jitter into a CD67.

Ray

 

[SimontY]

Yes, they said it made it sound nice and warm!

 

[avr300]

The interesting numbers here (beside the graphics) must be std. dev. 19 / 67.

 

[6h5c]

The interesting numbers here (beside the graphics) must be std. dev. 19 / 67.

Yep, that's how I got it, according to this pic ezkcdude posted, 1 standard deviation equals rms jitter.
So all the rms measurements I did can be trashed , there's no sense in calculating rms from rms, it all should have been p-p . Lucky I did both...

Ray

 

[Andre Visser]

Hi everyone

I’ve discovered this thread a few weeks ago while searching for mods on my Marantz 63KI, it took a LOT of reading to get through all the posts but I can say it was worth every minute.

Thanks to everybody that participated in sharing all this information especially Ray, Brent and Simon for all the effort you’ve put into this.

I’ve built my own 200W ClassA Monoblock amplifiers, almost finished with a set of 2.5way transmission line loudspeakers with Seas Excel drivers and my pre-amp should be “finished” in a month, so I think it is time to get working on the CD player.

At the moment only one question to Ray, I’ve noticed that you use a single-ended design on your discrete cd-output stage, would you prefer this to a classA push-pull output stage for sound quality?

Thanks again

André

 

[Fidelity Audio]

Hi and welcome Andre

Simon will be getting excited over your seas

You definatly need to upgrade the cd player with all that nice audio you have built

Brent

 

[Glenn2]

Hi Brent,

I finally got that cheapo glue gun from Maplin just now. (My local branch has been having a refit in the basement where all the interesting stuff lives.)

If you cast your mind back I asked you about silencing the SE transformer buzz. Where exactly do I apply the glue? Into the middle where the windings are, or peel the tape off and apply to the sides of the laminations?

Cheers....

 

[Glenn2]

Who needs Black Gates.... Look...

 

[6h5c]

...
At the moment only one question to Ray, I’ve noticed that you use a single-ended design on your discrete cd-output stage, would you prefer this to a classA push-pull output stage for sound quality?

Thanks again

André

Hi André,

I never tried the outputstage with a PP outputstage, but the HDAM circuit is PP, maybe it's worth an experiment? I can imagine in this case the same applies as with other SE/PP situations considering distortion etc.

Regards,

Ray

 

[Andre Visser]

Thanks Brent, after all the positive results I’ve read about, I can’t wait to hear it.

Ray, I’ve never tried a SE output stage before, as you say it’s worth an experiment. (Although after reading about that “Amber Pavane”, I think it is a much easier solution than going through all these mods. )

Thanks

André

 

[xaudiox]

Re: Re: Need Help! please!

Hi guys,

Just received a CD63 SE from a friend.. however it has problems.. sometimes it failed to spin the CD, sometimes the CD will spin a bit then it will spin in reverse and then it will stop. But a few times it will work flawlessly..

Have download the service manual from Ray's site (thanks Ray!).

Press play and stop to enter in Service Mode. i found out that i have a Focus Problem/error ( Err 02).

does anyone know what i can do?

regards!

My best guess is: replace the laserunit
But before that, you can try turning the small trimmer on the flexible foil a bit clockwise. If that cures your problems, it's the laser.

Regards,

Ray

just an update.. after weeks of trying to fix the problem with no luck.. i decided to replaced the laserunit.. I went to local electronics shop in my surprised they have VAM1202 instock.. i bought 2pcs and put one on my CD63.. now its working flawlessly..

i can now start doin some mods to this baby.. hehe

thanks guys!

 

[Fidelity Audio]

Hi Brent,

If you cast your mind back I asked you about silencing the SE transformer buzz. Where exactly do I apply the glue? Into the middle where the windings are, or peel the tape off and apply to the sides of the laminations?

Cheers....

Once the tx is out, warm the glue gun up for a good 10 mins so its really hot. Turn the tx upside down and fill inside the tx with the hot glue. The hotter the glue the more it runs into every corner.
Hopefully this will cure the noise

Brent

 

[Fidelity Audio]

Who needs Black Gates.... Look...

LMAO

Brent