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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 5th April 2021, 05:57 PM   #1911
levistubby is online now levistubby  United Kingdom
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hampshire coast UK
Neat build, but I don't like the use of an automotive in line fuse holder for 240v mains.
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Old 5th April 2021, 07:06 PM   #1912
mamocel is offline mamocel  France
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Vendée in power
No it's not stupid ... In general The fuses on the smps power supplies are soldered ... Good luck!!!
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Old 5th April 2021, 07:36 PM   #1913
daniboun is offline daniboun  France
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Lyon (France)
Quote:
Originally Posted by CliveJ9 View Post
Amp Board - Shui Yuan Audio TPA3255
PS - Mean Well LRS-100-24
Case - YONGU-W23B-226W1.5U


At last finished my first build and itching for my next any suggestions?
Maybe a MX50 AB and build the board.

Thank you to all that helped me on my 1st build.
Sexy amp ) well done
I suggest you to get the HanZao TPA3255 or the Hypex NC252MP module, you won't be disappointed for a next projet )
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Old 6th April 2021, 01:39 PM   #1914
andrejg is offline andrejg  Slovenia
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Default ICEpower 500A

Nothing particularly special about this one (and not much DIY ), but it sounds nice. Will have to tidy up the wiring, especially the Arduino/relay portion. Enclosure and power supplies are from audiophonics, the ICEpower modules are from a user here on diyAudio.

Front (the white thing on top is this).
Class D Amp Photo Gallery-p1060868-2-jpg

Back:
Class D Amp Photo Gallery-p1060871-2-jpg

The RCA connectors are awesome since they have the nuts on the outside - you can remove them without desoldering any wires (or solder the wiring and then mount them). The speaker binding posts not so much. I'm unable to solder anything on them with my soldering iron.

Insides:
Class D Amp Photo Gallery-p1060879-3-jpg

Class D Amp Photo Gallery-p1060893-2-jpg

Funny thing about the enclosure: it's mediocre at best, but the lettering (silkscreen?) is the most durable that I ever seen. I was able to get it off the front panel with a razor blade and copious amounts of solvent. The back is a different matter. The solvent dissolves the black paint but not the blue lettering . And it stinks. Like literally, even after a month on the shelf, it still absolutely reeks of something.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg P1060871 (2).jpg (107.6 KB, 670 views)
File Type: jpg P1060879 (3).jpg (417.8 KB, 660 views)
File Type: jpg P1060893 (2).jpg (200.8 KB, 664 views)
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Old 14th April 2021, 01:30 AM   #1915
von Ah is offline von Ah  United States
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Location: Maryland, USA
Class D Amp Photo Gallery
Watching the F1 show through my dr Mordor all in one TPA3255 and my venerable Econowaves. Meters now bouncing.
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Old 14th April 2021, 01:39 AM   #1916
Jeepnmon is offline Jeepnmon  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by von Ah View Post
Watching the F1 show through my dr Mordor all in one TPA3255 and my venerable Econowaves. Meters now bouncing.
Very nice!
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Old 14th April 2021, 07:51 AM   #1917
stewin is offline stewin  Kenya
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by von Ah View Post
Watching the F1 show through my dr Mordor all in one TPA3255 and my venerable Econowaves. Meters now bouncing.
great job
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Old 27th April 2021, 04:15 PM   #1918
DTractrix is offline DTractrix  Germany
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Stuttgart
Default Modded Aiyima A04

Added thermal connection of heat sink and aluminium enclosure using an aluminium u-profile and thermal compound (diy store, approx. 5 EUR) facilitating heat dissipation over the whole aluminium enclosure.

Added big internal(?, mostly external - see picture ;-) power buffer elcap Roederstein 68000µF, 40V (from my well-sorted experiments box, purchased from remaining stock, some 5 EUR).

Replace 35V power buffer elcaps by 50V types (from my well-sorted experiments box) in order to try this amp both with different "linear" and switching low noise 36V power supplies.

Replace 5532 opamps by 4562 opamps (reichelt.de, approx. 4 EUR). Unfortunately didn't succeed in purchasing OPA1656 incl. DIL8-adaption, although strongly recommended by Rob43.

Replace ferrite core inductors by air core inductors, so no ferrite saturation distortion. Choosed Italian made made stranded wire inductors, not solid core, in order to avoid skin effect. Aligned output low pass for 4Ohm speakers to 40kHz Butterworth (Q = 0.7, regarding the higher resistance of air core vs. ferrite). Was the most expensive upgrade (autocostruire.com, approx. 37 EUR), but seems to be worth the price.

Bypassing of all power supply buffers and especially all audio signal elcaps by WIMA MKP/FKP Caps (MKP = polypropylene caps, FKP = polypropylene cap for advanced transient demands) (reichelt.de, approx. 3 EUR). The polypropylene caps used where the highest values available being geometrically small enough to be mounted under the printed circuit board - although these values do not meet the 1%-"rule of thumb" for bypass caps. Was advised not to use ceramic caps due to microphonic effects. Enclosure bottom tape-isolated to avoid short-circuiting.

Some minor replacements just for optical reasons: black screws instead of silver coloured screws of stainless steel fixing front panel, red power led changed to a green one, volume knob changed (optically still not satisfying).




A cordial "merci beaucoup" to daniboun to Lyon from Stuttgart. Your posts made me check A04 after first trials with A07! You were absolutely right!
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Old 27th April 2021, 04:25 PM   #1919
DTractrix is offline DTractrix  Germany
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Stuttgart
Btw., question to community: Is there any knob available nice/similar looking such as new replaced knob of Aiyima A07 to be seen on picture (= knob Cliff FC7232/KMR-25), but diameter 23mm as needed for Aiyima A04?
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Old 27th April 2021, 04:27 PM   #1920
DTractrix is offline DTractrix  Germany
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Stuttgart
lessons learned/open questions:

Weak link still seems to be the power plug/socket (max 2A). It would be better to choose a cord from power supply directly to big buffer elcap and from buffer further to board. In my mod I didn't succeed running all cables optimally in regard to the additional big power buffer elcap.

Must be careful in regard the stranded wire air core inductors (intended for approx. 100W), next time I would choose the 500W type also avialable (autocostruire.com, set approx. 49 EUR, so surcharge just some 12 EUR vs. a set of 100W types).

I wonder whether it's more worthwhile to use bypass caps for power supply of opamps not directly from + to -, but both from + to ground and from - to ground.
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