If you use it as intended, the GND on the protection board will short the GND and negative of the speaker. That's most likely the death of the amplifier and therefore means no, that's wrong. You have to leave out the GND connectors for the speakers.
Ofcourse you can! You've never worked with a relais, did you? It is, simply put, a toggle switch. You got one input pin and it switches between the two output pins (or the other way around), you use one output pin and connect it via the resistor to the amp speaker negative. The other pin goes to the speaker. You don't have to leave one connector unused.
That would be a good solution but not be a solution to the pop noise problem. A different approach to the pop noise would be using the mute function of the 3116, pin 12 -> TPA3116 datasheet (PDF). That can be done with different approaches.
He didn't even ask a question in the first post, he did in the 2nd though. And the answer to that is yes, if he leaves out the GND and probably add a resistor.
Yes, that works and is the same for the TPA3116, TPA3118 and TPA3130D2. Vary the capacitance for shorter (lower) or longer (higher capacitance). You can also add a switch to mute it whenever needed.
Sorry one more thing. Where does the gvdd connect to and also the two down facing arrows?
Again it's probably a stupid question but I really don't want to blow anything up.. it has cost me a small fortune already haha
Again it's probably a stupid question but I really don't want to blow anything up.. it has cost me a small fortune already haha
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Show your german enginering skills instead of joking around, show how you would accomplish with the speakerprotectionboard as linked. When only connecting the possitive ampboard outputs, probably to speakerprotectboard outputs, have fun claiming it would still work LOL
TPA3116 will work till volumelevel is raised, then internal protection will trip, when external protection shorts negative outputs to ground. You know tpa3116 or you just joking again ?
Show your german enginering skills instead of joking around, show how you would accomplish with the speakerprotectionboard as linked. When only connecting the possitive ampboard outputs, probably to speakerprotectboard outputs, have fun claiming it would still work LOL
TPA3116 will work till volumelevel is raised, then internal protection will trip, when external protection shorts negative outputs to ground. You know tpa3116 or you just joking again ?
Arrows ground symbols. GVDD is from pin7. You will find both at the two capacitorpins just behind signal input
You really don't know how a relay or switch works? I hope it is easy enough for your netherlands engineering skills now.
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Yes that is the outputside of speakerprotectionboard. Now it still doesn't work. Come on, you claim it will work, you do the work.
What work? Everything else is just connect the voltage input to the protection board. None of the amp output is ever connected to + or - of the power supply, no gnd connection, no shorting of the output, no free run of the output (except for the ms switching time of the relais). Ofcourse it works!
It does not and it does not need to because the TPA3116 got a DC protection already on board. And that's not what he needs either, he needs to stop the on/off pop - and that is what it actually does.
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What switches what on?! Or not? 😕 Can you please rephrase that into a complete and understandable sentence?
Relais does not connect ampboard output to speaker, it does not switch, because dc protect is triggered.
Additionally because you have to turn protection board outputside into inputside you have protectionboard electronics on speakerside, when protectionboard fails you have direct, not through switching relais, but direct connection to speaker.
Additionally because you have to turn protection board outputside into inputside you have protectionboard electronics on speakerside, when protectionboard fails you have direct, not through switching relais, but direct connection to speaker.
Where do you think would the DC come from? But even if, there's just one tiny thing you'd have to do, cut pin 2 on the UPC1237.
What a nonsense! Firstly, that would always be the case if any protection board fails. And secondly, if the UPC1237 fails, it's designed that it automatically drops the current for the relais which makes it disconnect the speaker, the only thing that could happen is the resistor could burn down. But then the amp is already gone, the protection board is gone too so it would not really make any difference anymore.
You guys are hilarious,
I've just brought a new tpa3116 (sure electronics amp)
Instead haha may have the same pop, looks like a better version.
Because I tried to solder onto the tiny hair line mute etc pins (which I managed to do) but I should've hot glued the wires down immediately because they twisted and ripped the copper tracings off. Bummer.. still works for now though.
But no fixing the pop via mute pin
Live and learn
I've just brought a new tpa3116 (sure electronics amp)
Instead haha may have the same pop, looks like a better version.
Because I tried to solder onto the tiny hair line mute etc pins (which I managed to do) but I should've hot glued the wires down immediately because they twisted and ripped the copper tracings off. Bummer.. still works for now though.
But no fixing the pop via mute pin
Live and learn
gvdd and gnd are the two capacitor pins just behind signalinput socket, no need to solder to tpa pins. Sure tpa3116 power on/off pop is a meaner scarier cracking sound instead of pop, but you can connect the btl speakerprotection board without worry about burning outputparts ampboard, because output is clamped to vcc rail/protected against oscillations.
And yes (sound)quality is better.
And yes (sound)quality is better.
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