The B1 has output impedance of 1k, the 3116 has 9k input at highest gain. Not an expert but I think you want to get lower than that. The B1 can be modified for lower output IIRC. I am eyeing the Amb Alphs 20 preamp to use with TPA (or any other Class D) down the road.
Actually, 2 boards 3116 2.1 look like available. Which one do you suggest, for an as-is usage?
Frss Shipping TPA3116 2.1 2 X 50W+100W Class D Amplifier Board Deluxe Versio The best price!!!-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
2.1 TPA3116 Class D Digital Amplifier Board 100W + 50W + 50W 50mA -in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
Frss Shipping TPA3116 2.1 2 X 50W+100W Class D Amplifier Board Deluxe Versio The best price!!!-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
2.1 TPA3116 Class D Digital Amplifier Board 100W + 50W + 50W 50mA -in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
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I've been following this thread almost since inception, thanks to a friend who pointed it out. I'm preparing to build a 4 channel amp with active crossover to power a speaker project, I'm actually interested in who specifically the amps are being purchased from, whether it be E-Bay, or Ali express, and your reactions to the purchase...
I'm asking this because while I'm intrigued with the amp and the generally good comments, I really want just a tiny bit more power.... The amp this thread has seemed to revolve around ( the 3116 chip based amp ) would work well for the upper reaches of my project ( above 1K with a 2" fullrange driver ), but I feel a bit more power will be required for the lower channels, so I'm trying to gauge impressions of the posters as to the folks you bought from hoping to extrapolate that into purchase of an additional higher power amp of similar ilk....
For example "Honesty Shenzen" has listings on Ali Express for several higher power amps that would work with a 24V power supply and provide higher power ratings while still having the high efficiency of the Class D amps ( Eg. the TDA 7498 @ about 80 W 8Ohm ).
Thanks,
John
I'm asking this because while I'm intrigued with the amp and the generally good comments, I really want just a tiny bit more power.... The amp this thread has seemed to revolve around ( the 3116 chip based amp ) would work well for the upper reaches of my project ( above 1K with a 2" fullrange driver ), but I feel a bit more power will be required for the lower channels, so I'm trying to gauge impressions of the posters as to the folks you bought from hoping to extrapolate that into purchase of an additional higher power amp of similar ilk....
For example "Honesty Shenzen" has listings on Ali Express for several higher power amps that would work with a 24V power supply and provide higher power ratings while still having the high efficiency of the Class D amps ( Eg. the TDA 7498 @ about 80 W 8Ohm ).
Thanks,
John
If you need more power for the sub get another amp - this amp has, IMO, audiophile quality output below 40 w/ch stereo and 80 w/ch on the sub. With efficient drivers it should be enough for most home applications. On a sub, the sound quality is probably not as critical as the mids and highs where the clarity and soundstage of this amp excels at. A good powerful amp from TI is the TAS5630 also available from same website for $60. It has 300 w/ch but 150 w/ch if you want audiophile quality sound. You will need a 24 v to 30 v high current power supply to go with it though.
Not quite I'm afraid. Output power of any amplifier is always given by the supply voltage and the speaker impedance as dictated by Ohm's Law. There no way to increase output power without either increasing supply voltage or decreasing load impedance. So if a manufacturer claims 80W 8ohm on 24V supply it's a lie. It's as simple as that.
P(avg) = V^2 / (2Z), where
P(avg) is average power, also wrongly referred to as RMS power,
V is supply voltage, and
Z is speaker impedance
You are of course correct, my bad. I believe that amp requires something in the neighborhood of 32-36V for that output according to their listings.
XRK971, thanks for the Heads up on the other chip, I'll look into it.
John
Thanks! I expect great results. Good and cheap electronics and Scan-Speak drivers.
Back on topic, bought the TPA3116 and 24V SMPS on Aliexpress, around USD60 for everything. I hope it arrives mid-end November. Yay for lazy customs!
I am very curious on how the Wurth inductors will sound, they were worshipped in Tripath threads. It would also be great if someone could test values below 10uH since it yields good results on T-amps.
Has anyone bought the version with the case?
It looks very odd that single capacitor in the middle of the PCB. Is the picture correct?
The board looks very similar to this one:
...and capicitors are 2!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It looks very odd that single capacitor in the middle of the PCB. Is the picture correct?
The board looks very similar to this one:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
...and capicitors are 2!
The two caps are in parallel. They are using one on it's side to fit in the low profile case.
Hi,
I found the problem when I noticed a large amount of the switching frequency on the sub. channel whilst checking the clipping levels with a scope. It was verified with a frequency counter to be running at around 100kHz instead of 400kHz. I am not sure how you could check the frequency without the use of a counter or scope. I didn't have speakers connected during this time, just a 5Ω load on each channel so I have no idea how it would affect the sonic performance.
The component you need to check, assuming the layout is the same in this area, is the one shown in the image.
Attachments
Qbert25
Please read my post #312 regarding the value of C41. I think the values chosen by TI are a bit "finger in the air" so any combination of C41 and R73 that still allows a full logic level voltage swing to the sync pin will be OK. It just happened that I had a 100pF capacitor to hand and it worked. The edges of the sync signal were slew rate limited but still reached the logic high and low so I deemed it to be OK.
It looks as if the designers of the ebay board blindly copied TI's application circuit, errors included, without actually checking that it worked to specification. I'm surprised TI haven't updated the app. note as they are aware of the issue. Maybe they are like the large company I used to work for; too much paperwork for an engineer to raise for a minor amendment, just leave it until something more significant comes along!
Please read my post #312 regarding the value of C41. I think the values chosen by TI are a bit "finger in the air" so any combination of C41 and R73 that still allows a full logic level voltage swing to the sync pin will be OK. It just happened that I had a 100pF capacitor to hand and it worked. The edges of the sync signal were slew rate limited but still reached the logic high and low so I deemed it to be OK.
It looks as if the designers of the ebay board blindly copied TI's application circuit, errors included, without actually checking that it worked to specification. I'm surprised TI haven't updated the app. note as they are aware of the issue. Maybe they are like the large company I used to work for; too much paperwork for an engineer to raise for a minor amendment, just leave it until something more significant comes along!
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Apart from the fact that they did change the output inductor values... again without checking that it would actually work as specified (which it won't).
Check discussion here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-28.html
I mentioned using 10uF input caps and the discussion was about modifying to poly caps.
I have since done some calculating and may go larger than 10uF.
It does seem to really control the bass of the woofers very well.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-28.html
I mentioned using 10uF input caps and the discussion was about modifying to poly caps.
I have since done some calculating and may go larger than 10uF.
It does seem to really control the bass of the woofers very well.