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coil link
Digi-Key - 732-1175-1-ND (Manufacturer - 7447789004)
You can also try rewinding the stock toroids to 4.7uH but I played with type 2 toroid cores and think the WE-PD will still sound better although they may run a bit hotter.
link to the coils you bought? plz
Digi-Key - 732-1175-1-ND (Manufacturer - 7447789004)
You can also try rewinding the stock toroids to 4.7uH but I played with type 2 toroid cores and think the WE-PD will still sound better although they may run a bit hotter.
Sure
I use the Sure 2X100 amps so they fit right on. You would have to add wires to convert the WE-PD coils to through hole. You could just cut the toroids out, leaving as much of the first turn as possible still on the board in order to attach the new coils. If you wanted to put the toroids back you would then just unwind one turn on each end to get enough loose wire back again.
I use the Sure 2X100 amps so they fit right on. You would have to add wires to convert the WE-PD coils to through hole. You could just cut the toroids out, leaving as much of the first turn as possible still on the board in order to attach the new coils. If you wanted to put the toroids back you would then just unwind one turn on each end to get enough loose wire back again.
Off course these coils affect the sound very much, they are directly responsible for the Q of the filter. It's supposed to stay linear, a coil that doesn't might 'sound' great to your opinion, but actually it shouldn't 'sound' at all.
I get a strong 'sourcerer's apprentice' sensation out of such mods without any measurements to back up the linearity of the filter is maintained. And that's just one out of many aspects that are very interesting to measure and compare.
Even though hearing differences in sound from different parts is fun, it's rather pointless in a scientific sense, even in a sense of achieving high fidelity because it's leading nowhere...there is no reference other than personal taste...For all we know you might have fallen in love with a dreadful kind of distortion??
Let alone the problems that are easily introduced when you can't make a spectrum analysis, can't measure EMI, high frequency oscillations, unwanted high frequent feedback, core saturation etc. etc.
It takes more than just cranking some parts on a board and have a listen....
I get a strong 'sourcerer's apprentice' sensation out of such mods without any measurements to back up the linearity of the filter is maintained. And that's just one out of many aspects that are very interesting to measure and compare.
Even though hearing differences in sound from different parts is fun, it's rather pointless in a scientific sense, even in a sense of achieving high fidelity because it's leading nowhere...there is no reference other than personal taste...For all we know you might have fallen in love with a dreadful kind of distortion??
Let alone the problems that are easily introduced when you can't make a spectrum analysis, can't measure EMI, high frequency oscillations, unwanted high frequent feedback, core saturation etc. etc.
It takes more than just cranking some parts on a board and have a listen....
guru
You are the Guru. You measure them.
.
You are the Guru. You measure them.
.
Off course these coils affect the sound very much, they are directly responsible for the Q of the filter. It's supposed to stay linear, a coil that doesn't might 'sound' great to your opinion, but actually it shouldn't 'sound' at all.
I get a strong 'sourcerer's apprentice' sensation out of such mods without any measurements to back up the linearity of the filter is maintained. And that's just one out of many aspects that are very interesting to measure and compare.
Even though hearing differences in sound from different parts is fun, it's rather pointless in a scientific sense, even in a sense of achieving high fidelity because it's leading nowhere...there is no reference other than personal taste...For all we know you might have fallen in love with a dreadful kind of distortion??
Let alone the problems that are easily introduced when you can't make a spectrum analysis, can't measure EMI, high frequency oscillations, unwanted high frequent feedback, core saturation etc. etc.
It takes more than just cranking some parts on a board and have a listen....
wrong link
Sorry I gave the wrong link. Those are too small. The coils need to be at least the XL size. Too bad the XXL is no longer listed for 4.7uH.
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Digi-Key - 732-1221-1-ND (Manufacturer - 74477004)
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Sorry I gave the wrong link. Those are too small. The coils need to be at least the XL size. Too bad the XXL is no longer listed for 4.7uH.
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Digi-Key - 732-1221-1-ND (Manufacturer - 74477004)
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.
Are not these even better?
I'm sorry, but I'm interested in output coils too...
I've to place an order to a local e-shop, but it hasn't got the Sendler's WE-PD of that inductance value...it has only WE-HCC series ("High current") there is any difference? Are not even better? They have a max current of 13-15A and a lower series resistance... I've found these: 7443330470 and 7443320470
I'm sorry, but I'm interested in output coils too...
I've to place an order to a local e-shop, but it hasn't got the Sendler's WE-PD of that inductance value...it has only WE-HCC series ("High current") there is any difference? Are not even better? They have a max current of 13-15A and a lower series resistance... I've found these: 7443330470 and 7443320470
Sorry
I tried those. They don't sound quite as good. If you read through my posts in the Sure 2X100 thread you will see all of the coils I tried. It almost looked like Wurth was going to drop the WE-PD line of coils as they were out of stock for quite a while last year. Thankfully most of the big online distibutors have them again.
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I tried those. They don't sound quite as good. If you read through my posts in the Sure 2X100 thread you will see all of the coils I tried. It almost looked like Wurth was going to drop the WE-PD line of coils as they were out of stock for quite a while last year. Thankfully most of the big online distibutors have them again.
.
I'm sorry, but I'm interested in output coils too...
I've to place an order to a local e-shop, but it hasn't got the Sendler's WE-PD of that inductance value...it has only WE-HCC series ("High current") there is any difference? Are not even better? They have a max current of 13-15A and a lower series resistance... I've found these: 7443330470 and 7443320470
Just today finally testing TK2050 v1 & v2 assembled I found that something is not going fine with them (both).
- I hear a big noise (thump ??) when switching-off the amps.
- All channels have background noise, but right tweeter (on v2) is too high
- Tested DC offset and set them near "0"; noise still there.
- v1 remains "on" even if I switch onboard switch off
- I found "78M05 transistors" on both amps (v1 & v2) have middle leg broken (I'll try to post a photo later)
First time I switch them on for testing all seemed to be fine; no switch-on/off thump and not background noise. All connections have been made in order, so I don't see what was wrong!
Any idea of what happened?
- I hear a big noise (thump ??) when switching-off the amps.
- All channels have background noise, but right tweeter (on v2) is too high
- Tested DC offset and set them near "0"; noise still there.
- v1 remains "on" even if I switch onboard switch off
- I found "78M05 transistors" on both amps (v1 & v2) have middle leg broken (I'll try to post a photo later)
First time I switch them on for testing all seemed to be fine; no switch-on/off thump and not background noise. All connections have been made in order, so I don't see what was wrong!
Any idea of what happened?
FYI, I'm using 2xMeanwell SMPS 27v 350 (one for each board).
Is it safe to keep amps running this way?
Pics from Tk2050 v2 added (v1 is exactly the same)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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78M05 is the voltage regulator that provides 5V to the chips. Middle leg is GND, same as dissipator. Since dissipator is soldered to the board GND, the middle leg is not necessary. My early T2 board is the same and works perfectly.
I don't know where your issues come from, but it is not from this cut leg.
Tks alkasar.
I know nothing abt electronics. I've related this because it's the only extrange thing I've found in the plate; rest visually seems to be ok.
Maybe someone (hifimediy himself) have any idea where theese ugly things come.
PD. Excuse my bad english... I can not always find the right words to explain myself clearly!
I've been rechecking all connections and found 1 mistake:
- Ground was inverted in 01 loudspeaker between tweeter and woofer (I mean, line was ok in both drivers, but tweeter ground was to woofer, and woofer ground was to tweeter).
Once wiring was done ok:
1. Background noise disappeared
2. Onboard switch on T1 is now working again
3. Shutdown pop noise is still there
Any advice on point 3?
PD: Loudspeakers are driven active, woofers by T1 and tweeters by T2.
- Ground was inverted in 01 loudspeaker between tweeter and woofer (I mean, line was ok in both drivers, but tweeter ground was to woofer, and woofer ground was to tweeter).
Once wiring was done ok:
1. Background noise disappeared
2. Onboard switch on T1 is now working again
3. Shutdown pop noise is still there
Any advice on point 3?
PD: Loudspeakers are driven active, woofers by T1 and tweeters by T2.
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