Anybody?
does anybody know how to remove the metal grill and thing to cover the screws without damaging it?
Also, how do you know what chip they are? They are not marked.
Finally, I got the circuitry out of the metal case, and removed the board that connected the control unit to the speakers. It connected with 2 rows of 11 pins, one on each side. They are labeled:
PGND
DGND
VDIG
SGND
RR AMP
SGND
LR AMP
SGND
RF AMP
SGND
LF AMP
and on the other side:
N/A
SHIELD
VREGSS
SGND
VREGDD
MUTE AMP
STDBY AMP
SGND
SUB AMP
SGND
CENTER
I assume SGND just means gnd, since it is above each input.
Are these chips in mute or standby when there is no signal on the pin?
What is PGND, DGND, VDIG, SHIELD, VREGSS and VREGDD?
The board also has 5 SMD 8-pin chips, probably volume controls.
Can I just connect a potentiometer and input between sub amp and the SGND for it, and the same with the other amps?
Thanks!
-Mike
does anybody know how to remove the metal grill and thing to cover the screws without damaging it?
Also, how do you know what chip they are? They are not marked.
Finally, I got the circuitry out of the metal case, and removed the board that connected the control unit to the speakers. It connected with 2 rows of 11 pins, one on each side. They are labeled:
PGND
DGND
VDIG
SGND
RR AMP
SGND
LR AMP
SGND
RF AMP
SGND
LF AMP
and on the other side:
N/A
SHIELD
VREGSS
SGND
VREGDD
MUTE AMP
STDBY AMP
SGND
SUB AMP
SGND
CENTER
I assume SGND just means gnd, since it is above each input.
Are these chips in mute or standby when there is no signal on the pin?
What is PGND, DGND, VDIG, SHIELD, VREGSS and VREGDD?
The board also has 5 SMD 8-pin chips, probably volume controls.
Can I just connect a potentiometer and input between sub amp and the SGND for it, and the same with the other amps?
Thanks!
-Mike
Banned
Joined 2002
Educated guesses only,
PGND = power ground
DGND = digital ground
VDIG = B+ digital
SGND = signal ground
RR AMP = right rear +
SGND = signal ground
LR AMP = left v +
SGND = signal ground
RF AMP = right rear +
SGND = signal ground
LF AMP = left front +
each SGND is probably mated with a speaker +
and on the other side:
N/A
SHIELD = shield
VREGSS = B+ signal (regulated?)
SGND = signal ground
VREGDD = B+ digital (regulated?)
MUTE AMP = mute control signal
STDBY AMP = standby control signal
SGND = signal ground
SUB AMP = sub +
SGND = signal ground
CENTER = centre +
dave
PGND = power ground
DGND = digital ground
VDIG = B+ digital
SGND = signal ground
RR AMP = right rear +
SGND = signal ground
LR AMP = left v +
SGND = signal ground
RF AMP = right rear +
SGND = signal ground
LF AMP = left front +
each SGND is probably mated with a speaker +
and on the other side:
N/A
SHIELD = shield
VREGSS = B+ signal (regulated?)
SGND = signal ground
VREGDD = B+ digital (regulated?)
MUTE AMP = mute control signal
STDBY AMP = standby control signal
SGND = signal ground
SUB AMP = sub +
SGND = signal ground
CENTER = centre +
dave
OK, thanks.
I am using the center and rear speakers for my surround stereo system, so what I want to do is make a 2.1 system for my laptop. So, would I have to just connect the outputs from the PC to RF and LF and their SGNDs, and the sub input to SUB AMP and it's SGND?
Do I have to do anything with the other pins? Do the MUTE or STDBY pins have to be connected to anything or are the chips not in mute or standby by default?
Thanks!
-Mike
I am using the center and rear speakers for my surround stereo system, so what I want to do is make a 2.1 system for my laptop. So, would I have to just connect the outputs from the PC to RF and LF and their SGNDs, and the sub input to SUB AMP and it's SGND?
Do I have to do anything with the other pins? Do the MUTE or STDBY pins have to be connected to anything or are the chips not in mute or standby by default?
Thanks!
-Mike
Im sure a lot of people have had the same thing happen as you, and want to find a way to use the speakers.
Someone else has wired up two sets together
forum:
http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/index.php?fn=browse_forum&f=704&p=
Someone else has wired up two sets together
forum:
http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/index.php?fn=browse_forum&f=704&p=
I have taken my set, and rebuilt the amps. Instead of making a 5.1 system, I just stuck with a 2.1.
I used 3886s for the satellites, and 2 bridged opa549s for the sub. Because of this, I had to use a different transformer, because the torrid in the 680s puts out too much voltage (+/-36 or so, and opa549 is limited to +/-30).
But thats OK for me, because I instead built a stereo LM3875 amp using the torrid from the 680s.
With my new system, I find the sound much better than the original 680s, and the sub is still very loud, but less "thuddy" loud.
If you really want to hear the potential of these speakers, the amps they use are not even close to sufficiant.
I used 3886s for the satellites, and 2 bridged opa549s for the sub. Because of this, I had to use a different transformer, because the torrid in the 680s puts out too much voltage (+/-36 or so, and opa549 is limited to +/-30).
But thats OK for me, because I instead built a stereo LM3875 amp using the torrid from the 680s.
With my new system, I find the sound much better than the original 680s, and the sub is still very loud, but less "thuddy" loud.
If you really want to hear the potential of these speakers, the amps they use are not even close to sufficiant.
SoundNerd, this is how you remove the grill
http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/index.php?fn=view_thread&t=420578
"so the subwoofer grill is connected to the subwoofer with glue in 4 places. so the way to get the thing off is to take a paper clip or anything that's thin enough to get into the subwoofer grill's holes. The way you do it is to stick the paperclip into the holes on the edge of the grill (the direction of the stick would be towards the center of the grill or subwoofer cone) right where it meets the gray plastic circle part of the sub and then you gnetly pry it open by pushing the paperclip towards the subwoofer, which causes the paperclip to push up on the subwoofer grill.
do this like 20-40 times all the way around the grill and eventually you'll get the grill out of the sub box. be careful not to poke the cone."
I tried on my set but I couldn't get it to come off. Let me know if u manage to do it, I just ended up with a lot of bent paper clips.
I'd say this system could benefit from a bigger powersupply for a start.
http://www.neoseeker.com/forums/index.php?fn=view_thread&t=420578
"so the subwoofer grill is connected to the subwoofer with glue in 4 places. so the way to get the thing off is to take a paper clip or anything that's thin enough to get into the subwoofer grill's holes. The way you do it is to stick the paperclip into the holes on the edge of the grill (the direction of the stick would be towards the center of the grill or subwoofer cone) right where it meets the gray plastic circle part of the sub and then you gnetly pry it open by pushing the paperclip towards the subwoofer, which causes the paperclip to push up on the subwoofer grill.
do this like 20-40 times all the way around the grill and eventually you'll get the grill out of the sub box. be careful not to poke the cone."
I tried on my set but I couldn't get it to come off. Let me know if u manage to do it, I just ended up with a lot of bent paper clips.
I'd say this system could benefit from a bigger powersupply for a start.
There's actually another thread going on about modding the Z-680s
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48695&highlight=
Take a look
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48695&highlight=
Take a look
Other points of interest I have come across
the logitech z5500, which are the 680 replacements actually have Tangband W3-871 in them.
The centre speaker has a different driver from the other satelites, I'm not too sure why except maybe to get it to fit into the pod. They're far smaller coils, that's why there's such a big weight difference, plus the centre speaker is a sealed box rather than a vented one. it's left and right vents are just fake. Not too sure whether or not that makes a differences as these drivers, being that they have phase plugs and no completely sealed box could be achievable with them.
The sub box has no padding in it what so ever, the walls could be braced, and the transformer is actually inside the sub box, which that and the wiring from the back is a cause of some ppl's rattling problems
The control pod cord is going to have signal lines running parallel with power lines, so that can't be too good.
I wouldn't mind giving it a go modding my set of 680's ideas anyone?
are the amplifier chips any good on them? Capacitor replacements? DAC replacements? The audio decoder chip on the control pod is specified to work up to 7.1 decoding, I wonder if these could be reinabled. There sounds like there is a frequency range missing on them, but that does surprise me that much, common in sub satellite combos. But they're fine for movies, music is another matter. Maybe crossover redesigning could help.
the logitech z5500, which are the 680 replacements actually have Tangband W3-871 in them.
The centre speaker has a different driver from the other satelites, I'm not too sure why except maybe to get it to fit into the pod. They're far smaller coils, that's why there's such a big weight difference, plus the centre speaker is a sealed box rather than a vented one. it's left and right vents are just fake. Not too sure whether or not that makes a differences as these drivers, being that they have phase plugs and no completely sealed box could be achievable with them.
The sub box has no padding in it what so ever, the walls could be braced, and the transformer is actually inside the sub box, which that and the wiring from the back is a cause of some ppl's rattling problems
The control pod cord is going to have signal lines running parallel with power lines, so that can't be too good.
I wouldn't mind giving it a go modding my set of 680's ideas anyone?
are the amplifier chips any good on them? Capacitor replacements? DAC replacements? The audio decoder chip on the control pod is specified to work up to 7.1 decoding, I wonder if these could be reinabled. There sounds like there is a frequency range missing on them, but that does surprise me that much, common in sub satellite combos. But they're fine for movies, music is another matter. Maybe crossover redesigning could help.
Thanks for all of the replies.
Right now, these stupid things broke AGAIN. Guess I've learned why Logitechs are so cheap for so much power.
Either way, I'm gettin the Z-5500 (same as 680s but with a 10 inch sub, better designed amp so it doesn't rattle, new control panel, and in black, which in my opinion looks better). They have taken over 3 months so far, since for the first month they had an incorrect order put in, then after I called, I was supposed to get the new ones because the 680s are discontinued, and, since then, they have been out of stock of those.
With my current system, I think I'll try some modifications. First, I think I'll fill the satellites and sub with insulation, then I think I'm going to try closing the port in the drivers. It seems the only reason for those is for higher output level so they can claim higher power. In think with them closed I will get better sound output.
After reading the other thread and learning what speakers these use, are Tangband good speakers?
Oh, and does anybody know who makes the sub driver?
Right now, these stupid things broke AGAIN. Guess I've learned why Logitechs are so cheap for so much power.
Either way, I'm gettin the Z-5500 (same as 680s but with a 10 inch sub, better designed amp so it doesn't rattle, new control panel, and in black, which in my opinion looks better). They have taken over 3 months so far, since for the first month they had an incorrect order put in, then after I called, I was supposed to get the new ones because the 680s are discontinued, and, since then, they have been out of stock of those.
With my current system, I think I'll try some modifications. First, I think I'll fill the satellites and sub with insulation, then I think I'm going to try closing the port in the drivers. It seems the only reason for those is for higher output level so they can claim higher power. In think with them closed I will get better sound output.
After reading the other thread and learning what speakers these use, are Tangband good speakers?
Oh, and does anybody know who makes the sub driver?
wasn;t the tda7293 mentioned here also used in the Linn Klimax Twin ? You could have a look at the psu and, if possible, upgrade it. More capacity, better bypassing etc. Give it a nice (low impedance) supply and you'll be amazed!
The tangband w3-871 is supposedly a great little driver; check here for cabinet and crossover suggestions for the tb-w3871
The Z5500 is protected by a 4A slow blow fuse.
So, it's a bit bizzare that it's rated at 505W RMS, that would mean about 105% of amplifier efficiency.
Nobody here heard about Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra or Creative Gigaworks S700 (or S750) ???
These are the systems you need if you really like SQ from a multimedia system...
So, it's a bit bizzare that it's rated at 505W RMS, that would mean about 105% of amplifier efficiency.
Nobody here heard about Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra or Creative Gigaworks S700 (or S750) ???
These are the systems you need if you really like SQ from a multimedia system...
Yep I've heard the Gigaworks systems before, far better systems than the Z680's for music. Klipsch are a bit hard to come by around my neck of the woods, but I've heard good things of them. The main advantage to me is that the Logitech's have a AC-3 / DTS decoder with the. All of these multimedia systems are better than the cheapo theatre in a box systems you get, but still fall short when compared to hifi brands. My uncle's Kef satelite/sub setup blows my logitechs out of the water, mind u they should since they cost more than my logitech's and my projector put together.
I haven't seen the Z5500 yet, but they're suppose to be a lot more balanced than the Z-680s, no boomy bass, flatter response, better drivers.
I haven't seen the Z5500 yet, but they're suppose to be a lot more balanced than the Z-680s, no boomy bass, flatter response, better drivers.
SoundNerd, How did your logitech's break? is it just the fuse? I've heard that's pretty common for the logitech's, but never experienced it myself. I wonder what causes it. I take it with high volumes, mine never get that high because I use em only for home theatre, playing stuff thru the the analog inputs seem to be alot louder.
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