Yamaha YP-D71 external PSU

PKI

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Joined 2011
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I am in a process of restoring this Yamaha TT and thinking about moving PSU and most importantly the transformer outside of the deck. I've done it in the SL-1200 according to the thread here and I liked the result.

Any suggestions recommendation on what would be the best way to do it here? The schematics is attached. I am planing on using two LM-based regulators, but have some concerns about the second tap, if I get enough regulated voltage...

Would appreciate any suggestions.
 

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If discrete regulators are still working fine, I'd put only the transformer out of the case together with a diode bridge (if 1N4007 are OK for Wayne, the are OK for me) and a CRC cell, remove D101 bridge and C102 snubber, put two jumpers on ID481 holes and connect 29V to AA.

Immagine 2021-05-06 074815.png

For the other tap (white/white) I'd put on external PSU D103 and C107 (together with a 470 to 1000uF), make a jumper in their place and connect 7V line to BB.

As 6L6 wrote for SL1200, you'll have the main benefit by putting away from the deck all the AC, so I think a simpler approach would be enough.

s-l1600 (1).jpg
 

PKI

Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Now there is a question how to organize switching procedure. It used to be one switch that cuts the transformer primary. Now I will need to cut two DC coming from the external supply.

What about this:
1. I will use the higher voltage DC and will be switching it with the existing switch.
2. Tap 12V from this 29VDC and wire it to a relay to switch the second DC circuit?

Maybe something as simple as this:
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Channel-Isolation-Support-Trigger/dp/B00LW15D1M/

Or should I jus get bigger transformer set up this 29VDC and just down regulate this 7V from it with a simple LM regulator?

agree with peppennino

put xformer out, maybe even rectifying parts, and route that accordingly to ttable

take care to put fresh 'lytics and that's it

If discrete regulators are still working fine, I'd put only the transformer out of the case together with a diode bridge (if 1N4007 are OK for Wayne, the are OK for me) and a CRC cell, remove D101 bridge and C102 snubber, put two jumpers on ID481 holes and connect 29V to AA.

View attachment 949173

For the other tap (white/white) I'd put on external PSU D103 and C107 (together with a 470 to 1000uF), make a jumper in their place and connect 7V line to BB.

As 6L6 wrote for SL1200, you'll have the main benefit by putting away from the deck all the AC, so I think a simpler approach would be enough.

View attachment 949174