steenoe said:I dont think that the BOM is so important afterall. Just pop in the best value that you have!
Steen🙂
Thanks Steen, that was what I needed to read. I order soon the part list in the previous page from Digikey, and the chassis shown above.
Hi,
I will also use the HiFi2000 chassis. I've used them for all may electronic projects so far and I'm quite satisfied with the quality, which is not perfect, but good enough! I plan to build 4 channels of Zv9 in two separate chassis. These will be combined with 4 channels of UcD180AD (to drive my woofers) in the same chassie (i.e 2 channels Zv9 and 2 channels UcD in each chassis). My main concern (besides to mention UcDs in this forum 😉), is the temperature of the chassis which will be around 60-65 degrees. I don't know if the UcDs can stand such high temperature for and extended time. Does anyone have an opinion? I've get no answers from the ClassD forum...
I will also use the HiFi2000 chassis. I've used them for all may electronic projects so far and I'm quite satisfied with the quality, which is not perfect, but good enough! I plan to build 4 channels of Zv9 in two separate chassis. These will be combined with 4 channels of UcD180AD (to drive my woofers) in the same chassie (i.e 2 channels Zv9 and 2 channels UcD in each chassis). My main concern (besides to mention UcDs in this forum 😉), is the temperature of the chassis which will be around 60-65 degrees. I don't know if the UcDs can stand such high temperature for and extended time. Does anyone have an opinion? I've get no answers from the ClassD forum...
steenoe said:Yep 1% metalfilm's allright. I dont think that the BOM is so important afterall. Just pop in the best value that you have!
Steen🙂
Hey, that chassis looks great😎
May I ask how to implement a LED for the front of chassis?
Here is a nice little calculator for the current limiting resistor for LED's: http://www.penguinlovers.net/audio/led_resister_value.html
You can power the LED from a convenient place in the psu. The first set of caps in the raw psu, would be a good place. (Before the regulator)
Steen🙂
You can power the LED from a convenient place in the psu. The first set of caps in the raw psu, would be a good place. (Before the regulator)
Steen🙂
Thanks Steen, kind as usual 🙂
To the part list have to be added 2 lines (from DigiKey catalogue):
2 pcs 67-1751-ND LED 5MM BLUE/BLUE DIFF LENS 0 1,80000 €3,60
5 pcs PPC13.3KXCT-ND RES 13.3K OHM METAL FILM .50W 1% 0 0,15600 €0,78
I calculated 50V for 30mA low intensity blu led.
To the part list have to be added 2 lines (from DigiKey catalogue):
2 pcs 67-1751-ND LED 5MM BLUE/BLUE DIFF LENS 0 1,80000 €3,60
5 pcs PPC13.3KXCT-ND RES 13.3K OHM METAL FILM .50W 1% 0 0,15600 €0,78
I calculated 50V for 30mA low intensity blu led.
Does anyone know if the HIFI2000 enclosures are available in the USA (or could be shipped here for not too much expense)?
Paul Ebert said:Does anyone know if the HIFI2000 enclosures are available in the USA (or could be shipped here for not too much expense)?
I buy hifi2000 enclosures from www.audiokit.it . They can ship to USA but the enclosure i ordered is 7,3 KG (16.3 lbs): take a look UPS site for the cost.
P.S.
I checked the price in www.poste.it : to NY USA it is 93€ 🙁
The Slimline series with 10 mm faceplate looks pretty cool too🙂hifi2000 enclosures
Steen🙂
steenoe said:The Slimline series with 10 mm faceplate looks pretty cool too🙂
Steen🙂
Hi Steen,
Slim line has no heat sinks. €93 is delivery costs to USA.
Nope, but since you need an active preamp for the ZenV9, a BoZ would look nice in that chassis😉 A BoZ would be a nice mate for the ZenV9. That is the preamp I like best with the Zen9, really dynamic and nice sounding.Slim line has no heat sinks.
Steen🙂
BTW Talking about chassis, take a look at these:
http://www.thlaudio.com/casebpwrE.htm
The PRAL-30267F All Alum. Chassis for Pre. amp. would really be something for a BoZ😎 Watch the dimensions though, its not
big'ish.
Well, the easy work is done. Just the pot is different from part list (where it is in the wrong size), and the Mundorf mcap I had at home already.
Here is the ps. A little doubt: is the rectifier in the right side?
Now I'm waiting for transformer and chassis.
Steen, maybe I don't need an active preamp, as I have 96dB speakers 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is the ps. A little doubt: is the rectifier in the right side?
Now I'm waiting for transformer and chassis.
Steen, maybe I don't need an active preamp, as I have 96dB speakers 🙂
That doesnt matter much as long as you watch the polarity. It seems like you have connected the rectifier in the intended end with the bleeder resistor. What value did you use for the bleeder?is the rectifier in the right side?
The boards are great looking🙂
About the active preamp, I am not sure you can be without?. You will find out when you connect the amp for a listen though🙂
Steen 😎
steenoe said:What value did you use for the bleeder?
It is 2.2K.
Do you think the preamp is needed for power? I have a 5W t-amp and I can shake windows with my fostex fe206 🙂
Ciao
Thomas
P.S.
Chassis from thlaudio are wonderful.
Hmmm, Yes. Its just that the ZenV9 needs some output-voltage swing from the source to put out the 15 watts. My guestimate is around 4-5 volts for full output. Most CD players can deliver in the neighborhood of 2 volts. My X'ed BosoZ with the pot wired at the output is no good, but since using the X'ed in single-ended out I have allready halved the outputswing. So this leads me to think that a preamp is needed, and the BoZ is a shotgun😉 Drives anything with ease. My speakers are not really efficient though, so you could try without the preamp.Do you think the preamp is needed for power?
Steen🙂
BTW Here is a source for BoZ pcb's:

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Looks very nice!
It would be very interesting to know how warm the HiFi2000 chassis get?
This week I've ordered one of the larger chassis with heatsinks, the height is 16 cm and the depth is 40 cm.
I cant wait to start building my own Zv9!
It would be very interesting to know how warm the HiFi2000 chassis get?
This week I've ordered one of the larger chassis with heatsinks, the height is 16 cm and the depth is 40 cm.
I cant wait to start building my own Zv9!
Hello everyone,
is there anyone who would be willing to share a leftover stereoset of Veteran´s Zv9 boards?
Thanks!!!
Chris
is there anyone who would be willing to share a leftover stereoset of Veteran´s Zv9 boards?
Thanks!!!
Chris
As I was requested, I post again the Zen 9 part list I used for the modules shown above:
corrected some errors and raplaced the Pot with the right size one.
I got a beautiful HIFI2000 all black chassis with handles and huge heat sinks, while I'm still waiting for the transformer.

corrected some errors and raplaced the Pot with the right size one.
I got a beautiful HIFI2000 all black chassis with handles and huge heat sinks, while I'm still waiting for the transformer.
Hi,
what caps do you european fellows use with the boards (and where to buy)?
I have BC-Components (ex-Philips) 10mF/63V and they don't fit pinwise.
thanks,
Rüdiger
what caps do you european fellows use with the boards (and where to buy)?
I have BC-Components (ex-Philips) 10mF/63V and they don't fit pinwise.
thanks,
Rüdiger
Hi Rudiger, RS components has several Panasonic types. The board is layed out for standard 10mm snap-in (assuming you mean C1 on the main board) Here is a link:
RS- online snap-in caps
Steen🙂
RS- online snap-in caps
Steen🙂
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