🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 I just got my boards from pass DIY today and were already filled up with parts but the sad news is that I have to wait for transformers( din't know about that) but the good news is that I have the chance to look for heatsinks(where you guys come in for help......I think soooo!!!!!I was looking at MECI,M&M Metal, Aavid but haven't decided yet because don't know a thing about this, again.....that's why I need your help guys!!!!!!!!! Another thing is that project show at the power suply schematics only one cap(25000uf) I 'd liked to know if there is an advange in use 2 caps(25000uf) for each chanel. Thanks everybody in advance and special thanks to Mr. NP for sharing his IDEAS .THANKS AGAIN
I think you should follow Nelsons directions since you got the boards and Q pack. Nelsons hand winding skills are lagging lately, sorry he only does the slow turn, rights only.
are you sure you are not on the american idols !!!!!!!!!!
/joy my halo/I enjoy my halo
are you sure you are not on the american idols !!!!!!!!!!
/joy my halo/I enjoy my halo
Using more than one 25,000 uF cap in the power supply will usually give you somewhat better low frequency response by supplementing the current flow in the power supply.
Low frequencies require a much higher amout of power than high frequencies. So, when a loud low frequency transient hits, the power supply can run out of current. The capacitors are there to supply extra current in these situations.
Another thing you might want to try is, run a bunch of 10,000 uF 50V (or63V if you can get them) caps in parallel. They are readilly available and pretty affordable.
One last thing.... If you use multiple caps in the power supply, consider putting a coil in the center of the capacitor bank. i.e. if you use two 25,000 uF caps, put the coil betwee the positive terminals of the two caps. If using 4 10,000 uF caps, put it between the positive terminals of the second and third cap. Basically, it should be in the middle of the capacitor bank. This coil will help eliminate any remaining ripples coming out of the power supply.
I don't remember any exact values (my son was born a couple days ago, and I'm a little sleepy) but there are a few threads that contain values. You may also be able to find some good values on other people's power supply schematics.
Low frequencies require a much higher amout of power than high frequencies. So, when a loud low frequency transient hits, the power supply can run out of current. The capacitors are there to supply extra current in these situations.
Another thing you might want to try is, run a bunch of 10,000 uF 50V (or63V if you can get them) caps in parallel. They are readilly available and pretty affordable.
One last thing.... If you use multiple caps in the power supply, consider putting a coil in the center of the capacitor bank. i.e. if you use two 25,000 uF caps, put the coil betwee the positive terminals of the two caps. If using 4 10,000 uF caps, put it between the positive terminals of the second and third cap. Basically, it should be in the middle of the capacitor bank. This coil will help eliminate any remaining ripples coming out of the power supply.
I don't remember any exact values (my son was born a couple days ago, and I'm a little sleepy) but there are a few threads that contain values. You may also be able to find some good values on other people's power supply schematics.
CONGRATULATIONS 😎
we just had our first, nine months ago. i remember that dazed feeling.
---
i've been researching zen power supply stuff too - if i remember correctly, the recommended coil specs are 2 to 4 mH, at the lowest resistance possible. (like, less than 1ohm.) i've seen numbers like 0.3ohm. i guess the point is to minimize voltage loss across the inductor. someone correct me if i'm wrong.
also, the recommended inductance is 2-4milli-H, not micro-H...correct?
/andrew - will search again to make sure
we just had our first, nine months ago. i remember that dazed feeling.
---
i've been researching zen power supply stuff too - if i remember correctly, the recommended coil specs are 2 to 4 mH, at the lowest resistance possible. (like, less than 1ohm.) i've seen numbers like 0.3ohm. i guess the point is to minimize voltage loss across the inductor. someone correct me if i'm wrong.
also, the recommended inductance is 2-4milli-H, not micro-H...correct?
/andrew - will search again to make sure
If the coil resistance is to high then the coil will melt and take your nice caps down with it!!!
Zen v4
Thanks every one for your response it is very preciated. USEKGB: I' m going to use 4 caps of 25000 (2 for each channel) then if I understood well , the inductor should be connected to positive terminal of the second and third caps in parallel. Faustian bargin: Yes, I saw a post saying that the recommended inductance should be between 2-4mh. I'll post some photos of my layout later, thank you guys, you are great!!
Thanks every one for your response it is very preciated. USEKGB: I' m going to use 4 caps of 25000 (2 for each channel) then if I understood well , the inductor should be connected to positive terminal of the second and third caps in parallel. Faustian bargin: Yes, I saw a post saying that the recommended inductance should be between 2-4mh. I'll post some photos of my layout later, thank you guys, you are great!!
That sounds right to me. Those inductor values seem about right in the previous couple posts. I just couldn't remember at the time 😱 . I'd love to see how your amp turns out.
Right now, I'm trying to get a good transformer without spending an arm and a leg on the Plitron. I've recently come across 4 JBL Model 6006B monoblock amplifiers and I'm thinking of stripping them down and using the parts and chassie. The only problem is, the transformer puts out 58V. It does have a couple step-down transformers that I can use on my electrostatics though
.
Cheers for now and happy building for everyone.
Right now, I'm trying to get a good transformer without spending an arm and a leg on the Plitron. I've recently come across 4 JBL Model 6006B monoblock amplifiers and I'm thinking of stripping them down and using the parts and chassie. The only problem is, the transformer puts out 58V. It does have a couple step-down transformers that I can use on my electrostatics though
.Cheers for now and happy building for everyone.
cheapo transfo
check out apex jr. ---the Signal BL1752. this is the one i'm going to try, once i actually get off my duff and order some parts.
someone on another forum recommended using this...just use both secondaries at 115V in for a total of 38V output. close enough anyway. for 8 bucks you can't go wrong.
being a total newb, i'm not sure how exactly to wire that...if someone can clue me in with a little diagram i'd be much obliged.
/andrew
check out apex jr. ---the Signal BL1752. this is the one i'm going to try, once i actually get off my duff and order some parts.
someone on another forum recommended using this...just use both secondaries at 115V in for a total of 38V output. close enough anyway. for 8 bucks you can't go wrong.
being a total newb, i'm not sure how exactly to wire that...if someone can clue me in with a little diagram i'd be much obliged.
/andrew
Faustian bargin: Sorry, I can not help you, because Am totally newbie, like you. I saw my trans. and they have a lot of wires that I don't know how to connect too. But don't worry in this forum are good guys, masters guys tha I think are going to help us(I hope so......).
This transformer will work for you, but you may get a little hum from it. If you do use this transformer, you may want to enclose it in some kind of EM shield to keep the rest of your electronics free from EM interference.
To get the 38V output (this output will be fine), you just need to wire the two secondaries in series with each other. To do this, simply run the output of the first secondary winding in to the input of the second secondary winding. This is also what you are doing if you follow Mr. Pass's power supply schemtics with the toiroid. To get an idea of what the schematics look like, check out the PassDIY web site and study the power supply for the Zen V4. Instead of wiring two 18V secondaries in series, you will just be wiring a 24V and a 14V in series. Got it?
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Just remember, everyone was a newbie at one time or another. 😉
To get the 38V output (this output will be fine), you just need to wire the two secondaries in series with each other. To do this, simply run the output of the first secondary winding in to the input of the second secondary winding. This is also what you are doing if you follow Mr. Pass's power supply schemtics with the toiroid. To get an idea of what the schematics look like, check out the PassDIY web site and study the power supply for the Zen V4. Instead of wiring two 18V secondaries in series, you will just be wiring a 24V and a 14V in series. Got it?
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Just remember, everyone was a newbie at one time or another. 😉
There was one thing I forgot to add in my previous post. You may not quite get the current you will need to run the Zen V4 at full bore. You may experience some mechanical buzzing from the transformer, and it might also heat up a little bit. If it heats up too much, shut down the amp before you have a fire. They smell REALLY bad, and it's no fun to watch a shop (or house) go up in flames. If you find yourself having either of these two problems, you may just have to get yourself a transformer that is rated at at least 300 Watts (more if possible).
Thanks for all the info - most helpful. I thought wiring in series might be the way to go, but i wasn't sure.
as for buzzing - will that occur if i use 1 transformer per channel? that's what i was planning to do. mr. pass says the toroid transf tended to buzz when used for both channels, but not for single channel.
how do you figure the watt (or VA) rating - V*A for each secondary, and add them together?
/andrew
as for buzzing - will that occur if i use 1 transformer per channel? that's what i was planning to do. mr. pass says the toroid transf tended to buzz when used for both channels, but not for single channel.
how do you figure the watt (or VA) rating - V*A for each secondary, and add them together?
/andrew
Hello.
Sorry about the delay in responding. In regards to your transfomer, you can't just add the two power ratings together. The maximum power rating you will be able to get out of your transformaer is that of the smallest secondary. The voltages will add together, but not the current.
Basically, the outputs on a transformer are rated for the MAXIMUM current that the secondary will put out. Think of it as a certain diameter water pipe, and current as the water flowing through it. The smaller the pipe, the less water can flow through it. If you try to pull 24 amps through a coild that can only handle 12, you may very well melt your transformer.
Basically what this means with your amp is, you won't be able you crank your bias current up as high as you would with a high current transformer.
Finally, don't get discouraged. Your amp will still work, just at lower power. I'm still working on my Zen V4. I was a dumbass and left the P-channell followers off of my order
so I will have to place another order, pay the shipping, and wait some more. Oh well. At least I have my new son to play with. Maybe it's a good thing that I don't have all the parts yet. 😉
Cheers
Sorry about the delay in responding. In regards to your transfomer, you can't just add the two power ratings together. The maximum power rating you will be able to get out of your transformaer is that of the smallest secondary. The voltages will add together, but not the current.
Basically, the outputs on a transformer are rated for the MAXIMUM current that the secondary will put out. Think of it as a certain diameter water pipe, and current as the water flowing through it. The smaller the pipe, the less water can flow through it. If you try to pull 24 amps through a coild that can only handle 12, you may very well melt your transformer.
Basically what this means with your amp is, you won't be able you crank your bias current up as high as you would with a high current transformer.
Finally, don't get discouraged. Your amp will still work, just at lower power. I'm still working on my Zen V4. I was a dumbass and left the P-channell followers off of my order
so I will have to place another order, pay the shipping, and wait some more. Oh well. At least I have my new son to play with. Maybe it's a good thing that I don't have all the parts yet. 😉 Cheers
seems like there's several of us new-father types on the boards here. we just had our daughter 9 months ago. which is pretty much why i'm not doing much work on my amp either...just gathering info and figuring out where to get the cheapest parts. 
thanks for the transformer lesson...so in this case:
Signal BL1752
Primary 230V Secondary 48VCT 7A & 28VCT 3A
or Primary 115V Secondary 24VCT & 14VCT
running at 115V, the VA rating is 14*3? or is it 38*3?
/andrew - needs to read some more about transformers...they are more than meets the eye.
thanks for the transformer lesson...so in this case:
Signal BL1752
Primary 230V Secondary 48VCT 7A & 28VCT 3A
or Primary 115V Secondary 24VCT & 14VCT
running at 115V, the VA rating is 14*3? or is it 38*3?
/andrew - needs to read some more about transformers...they are more than meets the eye.
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