wytco: Do you mean a drawing of the PSU board and ZAPpulse modules, instead of the photo of them?
I will make this wiring diagram, when i get home if you find it helpful.
All the best
Lars
I will make this wiring diagram, when i get home if you find it helpful.
All the best
Lars
Lars, drawing or a photo with annotations just saying what each connection is would be brilliant. I would do it myself but I dont know what I am doing !
If there was a photo or diagram showing each connector and stating what connects to it I would be able to work with the schematic but thats is missing at the moment.
If there was a photo or diagram showing each connector and stating what connects to it I would be able to work with the schematic but thats is missing at the moment.
Lars, I'm sorry, but I'm sitting in limbo a little here. Could you perhaps review my message with my "bag of bits" and suggest a best course of action please...?
Thanks
Ed
Thanks
Ed
Ed: OK, it's not that bad.
1..Hook up your 2 secondaries to the good predator PSU.
2..Then remove the 2 rectifiers (RS808) from the faulty board.
3..Place one predator PSU in each side of the enclosure close to each ZAPpulse module.
4..Connect the two boards on the DC side, using the leftopen ZAPpulse pad's on each PSU. (There is pads for two modules, but you only use one).
5..Depending on if you are using the gate drive or not, also connect that.
Go
Lars
1..Hook up your 2 secondaries to the good predator PSU.
2..Then remove the 2 rectifiers (RS808) from the faulty board.
3..Place one predator PSU in each side of the enclosure close to each ZAPpulse module.
4..Connect the two boards on the DC side, using the leftopen ZAPpulse pad's on each PSU. (There is pads for two modules, but you only use one).
5..Depending on if you are using the gate drive or not, also connect that.
Go
Lars
Personally I think the Cookbook on the LCaudio site is very good. Why not just add a chapter how to connect it to the Predator or virtual 4 pole PS?
Anyway I hav a question too (for Lars, hope Ed doesn't mind to much)
If I have two 1000VA/45 VAC toroids, is it then not better to use 2 Predators (with the 80V caps) and a sync module (to avoid the mono block problems)?
I want to use the Zaps for a bass amps btw (130L sealed enclosures with 12" Lambda's). I need good basscontrol and a lot of power (speakers are 85 db/w/m).
Anyway I hav a question too (for Lars, hope Ed doesn't mind to much)
If I have two 1000VA/45 VAC toroids, is it then not better to use 2 Predators (with the 80V caps) and a sync module (to avoid the mono block problems)?
I want to use the Zaps for a bass amps btw (130L sealed enclosures with 12" Lambda's). I need good basscontrol and a lot of power (speakers are 85 db/w/m).
wytco0: Do you mean something like this?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Aha, I see. So basically, it would be even easier (and identical) if I took the caps off one of the boards, and just left the first board in place, then take the DC lines out the good board, into the caps, and from there onto the board? (Presumably the ground is still needing to be joined between the two caps on both sides, or rather that point becomes my ground on the caps-only side, and I join it to the ground on the board side?)
OK, so basically, your suggestion for best design can be simpified further to: single/pair of rectifiers to get our DC, then wires can be of arbitrary length as long as we have a pair of caps just before the boards...
Now, as for my predator boards, I seem to have damaged both of them unfortunately. It's not clear whether I will have damaged the amp modules either though (since I foolishly had them wired up when I first tested the PS... Learned a lesson there huh!)
Testing the predator boards, shows a circuit to ground from any of the AC inputs. I suspect that all the rectifiers are blown...? Would the small caps, etc also likely to be damaged?
Thanks Lars
Edit: With regards to builders notes as suggested by the previous poster. This silly mistake really comes from trying to implement dual mono power supplies without having understood the issues of a dual rail power supply. Perhaps it might be worth adding a quick note to the effect of "Stop, look, think" to try and help any one else avoid doing what I did...?
OK, so basically, your suggestion for best design can be simpified further to: single/pair of rectifiers to get our DC, then wires can be of arbitrary length as long as we have a pair of caps just before the boards...
Now, as for my predator boards, I seem to have damaged both of them unfortunately. It's not clear whether I will have damaged the amp modules either though (since I foolishly had them wired up when I first tested the PS... Learned a lesson there huh!)
Testing the predator boards, shows a circuit to ground from any of the AC inputs. I suspect that all the rectifiers are blown...? Would the small caps, etc also likely to be damaged?
Thanks Lars
Edit: With regards to builders notes as suggested by the previous poster. This silly mistake really comes from trying to implement dual mono power supplies without having understood the issues of a dual rail power supply. Perhaps it might be worth adding a quick note to the effect of "Stop, look, think" to try and help any one else avoid doing what I did...?
Duck-Twacy: Basically, what you are describing is what I was trying to do, foolishly though without adding the second torroid... I had assumed that a single torroid paralleled to the two boards would be enough...
I do have a sync module available, but what is the "mono-block" problem that you allude to?
I do have a sync module available, but what is the "mono-block" problem that you allude to?
Hi Ed,
I was refereing to the issue in the do's and dont's section http://www.lcaudio.dk/com/index.php?page=63
If I understood correctly the (potential) problem doesnot exist if you have 1 PS.
I know of some people having build monoblocks (without the sync module) with no problem whatso-ever. Others are less lucky and hear some soft (high frequency) noise. The exact reason for this I don't know (maybe sensitive speakers are also are more problematic). I think the sync generator is not that expensve, so why take chances (although using them for lows only maybe makes it less important)?
Also (if I understand correctly) I can place the Zappulse modules a little farther apart (so there is less interaction/influance between them). Of course the will be still in the same enclosure.
I was refereing to the issue in the do's and dont's section http://www.lcaudio.dk/com/index.php?page=63
If I understood correctly the (potential) problem doesnot exist if you have 1 PS.
I know of some people having build monoblocks (without the sync module) with no problem whatso-ever. Others are less lucky and hear some soft (high frequency) noise. The exact reason for this I don't know (maybe sensitive speakers are also are more problematic). I think the sync generator is not that expensve, so why take chances (although using them for lows only maybe makes it less important)?
Also (if I understand correctly) I can place the Zappulse modules a little farther apart (so there is less interaction/influance between them). Of course the will be still in the same enclosure.
Lars ,
Firstly thank you for looking into this and for doing so on a Sunday when you are on holiday, it's much appreciated.
That diagram is excellent, I know you have explained the AC but including that would also help.
You have labeled the DC as +-60 which I assume is the Zapulse voltage but I think its a function of the transformer used so more general voltage labeling might be better?
PS you mentioned that torroids are not centre tap and I had a look at the one I have, I hadn't noticed it before but as you suggested the centre tap is actually 2 wires tied together and put in a single sleeve, I guess I could have separated them but my new transformers are arriving tomorrow !
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