Because most of the cost is related to the required power and heat to evacuate.
Think twice about Class A versus Class B.
IMO, this is the first decision step.
Class B which is actually, in audio; AB with more or less of A in the B ( more or less quiescent current ).
Think twice about Class A versus Class B.
IMO, this is the first decision step.
Class B which is actually, in audio; AB with more or less of A in the B ( more or less quiescent current ).
+1
Well designed AB amps will not produce substantially worse distortion and tend to be more universal with respect to different speakers / loads.
With breathing room I mean, I don't want to turn the amp more than 1-2 o'clock level. But I am not sure, maybe it will still sound great. 🙂
xrk971, it can be my second build, will need much more effort and material expenditures to build it. 😀
Yes. It is my only concern.
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Holton HPA-NXV200L R4.1 comes to my mind, unfortunately very expensive.
Btw. it would be nice if I could also utilize my 2x35VAC transformer. Chassis could also easy to obtain for class AB.
I wouldn't worry too much about breathing room on a class A amp. Remember that it's running full-bore no matter where the volume control is set (the only difference is whether all that current is being dumped out to the speakers or into the heat sinks).
The Firstwatt F3 would make good use of your transformer, using one secondary for each channel. It's a bit more of a specialist than the Aleph J, though. (The F3 is more "tubey" in nature with limited damping, although it is a good fit for full-range drivers like your Fostex.)
(Note: I'm not trying to sell you on a class A design; it's just all I have experience with in DIY form.)
The Firstwatt F3 would make good use of your transformer, using one secondary for each channel. It's a bit more of a specialist than the Aleph J, though. (The F3 is more "tubey" in nature with limited damping, although it is a good fit for full-range drivers like your Fostex.)
(Note: I'm not trying to sell you on a class A design; it's just all I have experience with in DIY form.)
The Holton looks very nice (especially the layout) but reading its specs, it really is in the same ballpark as the Honey Badger or the various slewmaster variations. You could use your transformer with those.
This thread is worth reading too:2stageEF high performance class AB power amp / 200W8R / 400W4R
Then most class AB amps would be operating in class A for most of the time. I misread that, was thinking of 1 or 2 (if volume went up to 10!) nevermind, if would depend on the amps bias level
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Pass amps come with designed distortion to suit different tastes i.e. the choice of speaker and the music material. They are a classic audiophile stuff focusing on vocal reproduction and real instruments.
It is a different ball game than AB. with class A you do not want more power than you will be using in a particular room with particular speakers as it will drive the cost (and size!) of the chassis up, and only generate heat and be an issue in the summer time. they also have peak power which is double the nominal and they tend to sound more powerful than rated.
for a Fostex driver F5 is probably not recommended as it emphasizes the top and is not for forward sounding drivers. It does control the bottom very well, drives low impedances and generates less heat than Alephs for example.
AlephJ is a good choice for 8 ohm speakers. Aleph30 is simpler in terms of the availability of parts for the input diff pair. F4 would be my recommendation with a preamp of your choice.
for more details you can check things out over at the Pass forum.
If you want a cost effective introduction to Pass flavoured amps, try an ACA for only 6-7 watts/ch (only mind the available source voltage as the gain is low; especially with ACA2 which will be released by end of year).
good luck.
It is a different ball game than AB. with class A you do not want more power than you will be using in a particular room with particular speakers as it will drive the cost (and size!) of the chassis up, and only generate heat and be an issue in the summer time. they also have peak power which is double the nominal and they tend to sound more powerful than rated.
for a Fostex driver F5 is probably not recommended as it emphasizes the top and is not for forward sounding drivers. It does control the bottom very well, drives low impedances and generates less heat than Alephs for example.
AlephJ is a good choice for 8 ohm speakers. Aleph30 is simpler in terms of the availability of parts for the input diff pair. F4 would be my recommendation with a preamp of your choice.
for more details you can check things out over at the Pass forum.
If you want a cost effective introduction to Pass flavoured amps, try an ACA for only 6-7 watts/ch (only mind the available source voltage as the gain is low; especially with ACA2 which will be released by end of year).
good luck.
Unfortunately the source is just as important if not more than the amp. Without fixing this first improving the amp will bring mostly sonic frustration. As a diy endeavour it may still be fun and rewarding.
As we are a diy forum i can't recomment modules with a cost of 700 euro😱
We have here very well documentation, cheap,not exotic parts,tested again and again with published testing results.
There isn't any reason to pay a tone of money!
Better buy a new car!
We have here very well documentation, cheap,not exotic parts,tested again and again with published testing results.
There isn't any reason to pay a tone of money!
Better buy a new car!
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APEX FR100 is also very nice sounding amp, absolutely no problems with building and running, I love it 
. By the way, does anyone compared it to APEX A40? (I'm also looking for next amp to build 😉)
. By the way, does anyone compared it to APEX A40? (I'm also looking for next amp to build 😉)- Status
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