Think I will go ahead to order four 12" Peerless SLS and have a go at this design and see how it measures standing on end:
To keep the front and back cut outs as far from each other as feasible, I increased the chamber widths (heights as in the CAD above) but the cavity volume is still about 10% less than I've estimated Charlie's design is. Drivers are on back order and need to find time to cut the pipe, so will be a few weeks at least before firing up.
To keep the front and back cut outs as far from each other as feasible, I increased the chamber widths (heights as in the CAD above) but the cavity volume is still about 10% less than I've estimated Charlie's design is. Drivers are on back order and need to find time to cut the pipe, so will be a few weeks at least before firing up.
Hi tigeranand, I have not got anything up and running yet, have been too busy plus I'm waiting for the weather to get warmer and drier outside so I can cut up some more pipe - the mess flies everywhere! I did cut some pipe up but not very well, need to try again to get a squarer cut, not easy on 12" pipe! Bought two drivers, some black mdf for the ends and some threaded rods to clamp it all together so I have all I need to build one unit to test, just need time.
Nice! All so nice. Original poster, great choice on finish contrasting shades of oak ^. Oak takes stain the nicest
Franks brown sub reminds me of one I'm working on.
Im making one now. It looks almost the same size, mine houses a 10 that kicks like a mule in the tight quarters. More info in sub forum. And updates later.
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^^^ Are quotes turned off? Lol, we got 1 of those pots.
Its a pot, lots of people do. I like contrasting wood with metals. And that was already the dimension I wanted.
It doesn't look like it started life as a pot anymore, its a baffle for first of two subs https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...tanic-Mk-4-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-295-401?quantity=1
I'm making this set 3.1, actually it will be a 2.2. https://6moons.com/audioreviews/gallo/ref3.html
MDF blows, litterally. I only used it cause that was free. I forgot how crap it is. Baffle is another 1/2" thicker (.75 x2 plywood birch. Its also much better quality. So glad I hated the MDF in the end.
The 10 fits the pot bang on perfect with 3/4" from ID of baffle to ID on the metal edge. It fit perfectly tight after I clapped the pot slightly to take it back to the original "perfect circle". All the heating/cooling may of threw it off a couple thousandth. Or maybe it had a temperamental chef in its past life.
Its working out splendidly 😉
Its a pot, lots of people do. I like contrasting wood with metals. And that was already the dimension I wanted.
It doesn't look like it started life as a pot anymore, its a baffle for first of two subs https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...tanic-Mk-4-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-295-401?quantity=1
I'm making this set 3.1, actually it will be a 2.2. https://6moons.com/audioreviews/gallo/ref3.html
MDF blows, litterally. I only used it cause that was free. I forgot how crap it is. Baffle is another 1/2" thicker (.75 x2 plywood birch. Its also much better quality. So glad I hated the MDF in the end.
The 10 fits the pot bang on perfect with 3/4" from ID of baffle to ID on the metal edge. It fit perfectly tight after I clapped the pot slightly to take it back to the original "perfect circle". All the heating/cooling may of threw it off a couple thousandth. Or maybe it had a temperamental chef in its past life.
Its working out splendidly 😉
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Hi,
aside from repurposing a pot or drain pipes, what could be used -or sourced- for a cylindrical cabinet?
I'm rather thinking of 12"-18" drivers.
jauu
Calvin
ps. are there now any sensible measurements of the alvipet sub around that support their extraordinary claims?
For example ... going ever smaller in dimensions costs on efficiency, regardless if a driver works in a monopole, dipole or any other fashion. Their claim is higher efficiency at 1/3 or less cabinet volume. I doubt it .... as I doubt almost all of their superiority claims so far.
aside from repurposing a pot or drain pipes, what could be used -or sourced- for a cylindrical cabinet?
I'm rather thinking of 12"-18" drivers.
jauu
Calvin
ps. are there now any sensible measurements of the alvipet sub around that support their extraordinary claims?
For example ... going ever smaller in dimensions costs on efficiency, regardless if a driver works in a monopole, dipole or any other fashion. Their claim is higher efficiency at 1/3 or less cabinet volume. I doubt it .... as I doubt almost all of their superiority claims so far.
Snoop around companies that manufacture steel among other things. When they start a roll or for transportation sometimes they use heavy rigid paper fibre rolls. Also in printing industry. But they won't come in larger than 6 8". I'm using some to house mids.
The ones I have in mind are a lot stronger than cement forms and don't peel apart so easily. The ones I mean can be stood on, a couple people can actually stand on them and they don't budge. Check around industrially no commercially. Germany has a lot of that going on you might get lucky on some bigger ones.
SVS has been making tube subs for years. Maybe they would fill you in on where they source the rolls from.
Or you can make them if you have the right connections. I got a 2' x 10' sheet of beautiful high grade stainless steal. I'd make much nicer rolls if I had the right machinery.
I suppose you could use cement forms from hardware stores if can't fine anything better. But I would layer them in glass and resin because they seem a bit flimsy. Guys have used them although.
Secondly I can't say if they come larger than 12".
The sizes your after could well be a custom project you might have to take on yourself. Personally I prefer metal for its strength and look but composite for its acoustic properties. Dynamat gets expensive when you have 3 other side audio projects going when its needed.
SVS
