Lowrider said:
I think that "hump" is a good thing. So I believe that harman Kardon guys did know what they did and why!
keithgreenhalgh said:
I will tell lather who is right. 🙂 Maybe I should put up a betting office or a bookie. 🙂
I have a friend in the Ukrain and he is allready on the tubes and than I will check the impedans to on the speakers and looked my speakers a bit more closely and all of it, just I need some more time.
Can you wait? 🙂
Figured that 5 ton press is not ecxacly out of my sight either, seen it almost every second day. 🙂
Lowrider said:
Pity, because the press is great, good sound and it's live! 🙂 You never even get closer to a crash sound with anything. Tube? No way, maybe with the Harman. 🙂
Ps: I give you a discount on shpping.
Lowrider said:
🙂 Se what I mean? It's one in the lifetime oportunity.
Should I pack?!!??????!! 🙂
seriously, (this time) I need to get answer what en capacitator do in the amp and how come a tube sound different even if they are the same but coming from different manufacturers.
This questions are of educational puphoses to someone like me who knows as much about this as a newborn DNA copy of one man and vomen somewhere out there.
This questions are of educational puphoses to someone like me who knows as much about this as a newborn DNA copy of one man and vomen somewhere out there.
If yours work, dont worry with capacitors yet, later you will start by replacing the coupling capacitors (between stages) by some nice Russian PIO (paper in oil), the silver and green cylinders on mine... 😉
Everything sounds different, God knows why, but they do...
I dont know why you seem so surprised, the lenses on your cameras, different film (I am old fashioned, I know), etc, also have different results...
Everything sounds different, God knows why, but they do...
I dont know why you seem so surprised, the lenses on your cameras, different film (I am old fashioned, I know), etc, also have different results...
Lowrider said:If yours work, dont worry with capacitors yet, later you will start by replacing the coupling capacitors (between stages) by some nice Russian PIO (paper in oil), the silver and green cylinders on mine... 😉
Everything sounds different, God knows why, but they do...
I dont know why you seem so surprised, the lenses on your cameras, different film (I am old fashioned, I know), etc, also have different results...
Not the film because it could be only B/W or colour and have different speed but the results are the same, But lenses yes there is some difference between the old and new ones and they are mostly this. The old ones are not coated or just single coated and the new ones has multiple coating but is't all got to do with color reproduction and aberration of the color when working with B/W throught the lens elements.
However some old ones are sharp like hell so it maybe some differance on that one but no one ever made any scientific test on those it's all up to the photographers personal taste.
As it's allways ones own are the sharpest. 🙂
But tube? Cant really understand It would be if Kodaks 400 asa B/W film would differ from Ilfords 400, which of course does not.
It happens exactly the same with tubes and capacitors, no scientific test will explain all the differences, in the end it is a matter of personal taste, like with your lenses...
By the way, the color rendition was very different with KodaK and FUJI film, I preferred KodaK, more natural, FUJI kind of exaggerated the color, maybe nice with some subjects, but tiring with most...
And dont forget synergy, very important, some go better with some other, independent of quality, like amplifiers and speakers...
By the way, the color rendition was very different with KodaK and FUJI film, I preferred KodaK, more natural, FUJI kind of exaggerated the color, maybe nice with some subjects, but tiring with most...
And dont forget synergy, very important, some go better with some other, independent of quality, like amplifiers and speakers...
Lowrider said:
Again the only way to compare is to expose the same type film (speed, type) in the same situation on the same subject but it should be developed in the same lab because it could differ. It's even hangs on how old is the developer is in the mashine.
And the big part of it how the emulsion composed by the manufcturer.
So it could be the same of the tubes, material, tolerances the gas or the vacum inside the tube even maybe the fitting or the type of glass and their tickness they are using.
But I don't know it's just my own teory if it's any teory at all.
Oh note, the bias adjustment DOES make a difference in the sound. .40 to .45 volts might get you long tube life, but the bottom end (bass) tightens up noticeably with .55 to .60 volt bias on each of the output tubes.
Charles.
Charles.
Unable to adjust Bias
This is really weird. After I got all the lo down from all the experts and wanted to "tune" my bias to .55V-.60V, I put the multimeter on all the pods, and they were all around 0.6V to start out with except tube 2. I got no registration of voltage, nor can I adjust the bias on the voltage there. Incidentally, I've been noticing a 'hum' coming from the L channel, which would be driven by V1 and V2, I presume. Without taking things apart and checking to see if something's burnt, was just wondering if any of you guys could shed some light on the subject? I've been trying to move the probe up and down/left and right just to make sure its not poor contact, but nah, nothing, nada, zilch... Could there be something simple 'burnt' on the circuit board, and if so, what could it be? Thanks guys.
This is really weird. After I got all the lo down from all the experts and wanted to "tune" my bias to .55V-.60V, I put the multimeter on all the pods, and they were all around 0.6V to start out with except tube 2. I got no registration of voltage, nor can I adjust the bias on the voltage there. Incidentally, I've been noticing a 'hum' coming from the L channel, which would be driven by V1 and V2, I presume. Without taking things apart and checking to see if something's burnt, was just wondering if any of you guys could shed some light on the subject? I've been trying to move the probe up and down/left and right just to make sure its not poor contact, but nah, nothing, nada, zilch... Could there be something simple 'burnt' on the circuit board, and if so, what could it be? Thanks guys.
If I remenber right you have 240volts mains. Maybe that affected something. Do all 4 kt88 filaments light up? If yes,then you got a special tool(screwdriver) with the amp to adj the bias,try turning this a bit to see if you are on a dead spot of the bias adj pot. If this doesn't work I suspect the bias adj pot has been damaged.These are very delicate and have to be adjusted with care.
Yes, all 4 of the KT88 light up and there is sound coming from both channels, just that the bias voltage on V2 reads 0v, and cannot be adjusted, that's the funny thing, and also the 'hum' coming from the left channel. Its weird.
Your bias adj is in series with your kt88 and output transformer winding. Try switching Kt88.s. If this doesn't work,possibly you don,t have your high voltage(b+).IT could also be an open cathode resistor(in kt88 ckt) but I don't know why it would go open. My bet bet is the bias adj pot is open or damaged.Anyway try switching KT88's to elimate a tube problem.Its possible that there is something thats gone open inside the kt88.Perhaps one was damaged in transit.
Thanks buddy. I managed to get a voltage reading after pulling the KT88 out and reinserting it. Jiggling along the way, and managed to adjust it to 0.55V when first start up. After a bit of warm up, the hum returns and voltage across the bias points gone to zero again. Perhaps the pot is defective? If you have an open circuit with the pot, would it give you a hum? The amplification still works, as it still has sound coming out of the L channel....