Hi, firstly I apologise my first post is a question! But no better way to get my feet wet here 😀
I have a Yaqin CD3 tube buffer and would like to try upgrading the caps, I am a complete noob to anything like this, however I can weild a soldering iron pretty well so It doesn't seem that hard?
My question was is it ok to replace the caps listed below with ones with higher VDC? Any sonic disadvantages to doing this?
I can locally source Jantzen Superior Z caps so would like to use these if possible/applicable.
Current caps are-
.47u 275v x 4
.22u 275v x 2
Jantzen Superior Z's I think I can use-
.47uF 800VDC
.22uF 1200VDC
Thanks for any help or advice offered.
Also for those who own one of these- if you find the front Yaqin power light too bright it's quite easy to mod it.
Remove the front aluminium fascia, push the plastic Yaqin front plate from behind (it's attached by soft glue).
What I did was use a kitchen scourer to remove the black paint from the rear of the plastic, then masked up the shape I wanted and applied 3 layers of a blue vinyl masking tape to the rear until the brightness was reduced to my liking. Pic attached if your interested (the camera makes it look brighter than it is in person)
I have a Yaqin CD3 tube buffer and would like to try upgrading the caps, I am a complete noob to anything like this, however I can weild a soldering iron pretty well so It doesn't seem that hard?
My question was is it ok to replace the caps listed below with ones with higher VDC? Any sonic disadvantages to doing this?
I can locally source Jantzen Superior Z caps so would like to use these if possible/applicable.
Current caps are-
.47u 275v x 4
.22u 275v x 2
Jantzen Superior Z's I think I can use-
.47uF 800VDC
.22uF 1200VDC
Thanks for any help or advice offered.
Also for those who own one of these- if you find the front Yaqin power light too bright it's quite easy to mod it.
Remove the front aluminium fascia, push the plastic Yaqin front plate from behind (it's attached by soft glue).
What I did was use a kitchen scourer to remove the black paint from the rear of the plastic, then masked up the shape I wanted and applied 3 layers of a blue vinyl masking tape to the rear until the brightness was reduced to my liking. Pic attached if your interested (the camera makes it look brighter than it is in person)
Attachments
Looks good - what are the tubes?
Do not know the Jantzen Superior caps - aim for polypropylene construction from a good brand and you'll be fine.
Voltage is irrelevant to a degree - I doubt you'll need more than 450V TBH. BTW be careful in there - 200V+ could be sitting on a capacitor in there for days so use a meter to confirm first!
Do not know the Jantzen Superior caps - aim for polypropylene construction from a good brand and you'll be fine.
Voltage is irrelevant to a degree - I doubt you'll need more than 450V TBH. BTW be careful in there - 200V+ could be sitting on a capacitor in there for days so use a meter to confirm first!
Jantzen Superior are realy Superior. Beter then Superior are Jantzen Silver caps. Very good are also PIO K40 version, take 400V version, 630V or 1000V are to big.
One mounth ago I upgraded this CD3 buffer for one my customer and I put in it Superior Caps and russian 6N8C NOS tubes. The improvement was evident.
Cool thanks, it's just when I look at mid-range and above caps the two particular values I need .22 and .47, they all seem to be rated at least 800-1200vdc.
So I could get away using these without any downsides? (safety and sound wise)
Oh I plan to be paranoid, before I posted I read through the 'electrical safety' thread!
The tubes are the standard Chinese ones that came with the unit, I have a selection of NOS tubes enroute to try out 😎
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@matejsirk - I'd like to try the Superior-Z as I can get them locally. When you say '..630V or 1000V are to big', do you mean voltage or physical size?
The Jantzen Silver Caps have the same high VDC rating and are physically larger. Am I looking at the wrong caps maybe?
^the tubes are 6H8C, russian equivalent of the 6SN7....
topology is cathode follower, yes this a cathode follower with both sections of the tube paralleled....
i was unable to measure operating current when i had the chance to open up one...
but you can try measuring it by taking the voltage reading accross the 1k resistor...
topology is cathode follower, yes this a cathode follower with both sections of the tube paralleled....
i was unable to measure operating current when i had the chance to open up one...
but you can try measuring it by taking the voltage reading accross the 1k resistor...
Hi,
I am mean that russian PIO K40 630V or 1000V are physically to big. The JA Superior will fit in CD3. They are bigger than the blue caps, but in CD3 is enough free space. You can use caps with bigger voltage.
Well finally.... got around to doing the caps, went for the Jantzen Superior Z's, couldn't be happier with the improvement!
Was a tight fit in places but nothing a dremel couldn't resolve 😛
Thanks for the help everyone
Was a tight fit in places but nothing a dremel couldn't resolve 😛
Thanks for the help everyone
Is your tube buffer still working?
Hi Mate, Just wondering your tube buffer still going alright? Can you kindly tell me where did you order your Jantzen Caps from?
I have neve wield a soldering iron before and thinking of following what you did.
Any advise would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Mate, Just wondering your tube buffer still going alright? Can you kindly tell me where did you order your Jantzen Caps from?
I have neve wield a soldering iron before and thinking of following what you did.
Any advise would be much appreciated. Thank you.
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