That 22nf cap gets blammed for everything however with your symptoms it MAY be the problem. Have you replaced it? Alternatively, there is a serious problem(short?) such that allowing diagnotic mode would cause serious damage(melt down) to the amp. Difficult to troubleshoot in this case, maybe isolate/remove various stages/boards?
Thank you so much for the suggestions. I will start by replacing the 22nf capacitor and, if that does not solve it, I will try to isolate the problem by removing the stages/boards.
By the way, this receiver supposedly worked fine before it was shipped to me with almost no packing material. This is another reason why I initially ruled out the 22nf capacitor as the culprit.
By the way, this receiver supposedly worked fine before it was shipped to me with almost no packing material. This is another reason why I initially ruled out the 22nf capacitor as the culprit.
I've got myself a faulty (as it turns out) v2600. Shutting down after certain amount of time (at first was few hours, now just couple of minutes from cold start). Everything is disconnected. I'm getting TMP2PRT:002 Q (value ranges from 000 to 003, acceptable value is 20-182) code errors in self diagnosis mode. Other AD data check values are normal. According to manual, TMP2 is the rear temp sensor. However by touch, rear radiator is cool, and front one with voltage regulators is way toastier. Before checking error messages I've changed thermal paste for voltage regulators and bent the holding bracket for better contact. I've also implemented continuous fan mode so now neither radiator gets hot.
Is there something I can try before trying to pull out MAIN(2) board where the TMP2 IC is located? It's a deep dig, and I'm not sure I'll be able to diagnose it anyway.
I've also replaced C4 cap.
Is there something I can try before trying to pull out MAIN(2) board where the TMP2 IC is located? It's a deep dig, and I'm not sure I'll be able to diagnose it anyway.
I've also replaced C4 cap.
Some have suggested the wrong capacitor gets replaced instead of the bad one..
I believe this similar yamaha capacitor replacement with pics might be the correct location;
https://www.avforums.com/threads/yamaha-rxv1700-power-problem.1533016/
PS for anyone working on these, the outer cover screws are like locktight glued from the factory, especially the top 2. SO be Sure to first time, hit them with a small torch-lighter. The heat will melt the threads glue and make them come right off instead of stripping!
Also make sure the 3 speed internal like 2-9vDC fan turns on when hot. It might be possible to clean/oil it if not.. or replace..
Take care
I believe this similar yamaha capacitor replacement with pics might be the correct location;
https://www.avforums.com/threads/yamaha-rxv1700-power-problem.1533016/
PS for anyone working on these, the outer cover screws are like locktight glued from the factory, especially the top 2. SO be Sure to first time, hit them with a small torch-lighter. The heat will melt the threads glue and make them come right off instead of stripping!
Also make sure the 3 speed internal like 2-9vDC fan turns on when hot. It might be possible to clean/oil it if not.. or replace..
Take care
Please be sure to replace the C4 cap with one that has an X2 rating. The X2 rating ensures that the capacitor doesn't catch on fire even if it fails due to overload, e.g. excess voltage. This capacitor is directly connected to mains voltage, and the mains voltage is not a stable one, it can carry voltage spikes of several tens or even hundreds of volts above the rated voltage (e.g. 230VAC or 120VAC). In fact these excessive voltage spikes are the very cause of the C4 capacitor loosing its capacitance. It's a pain that Yamaha doesn't warn in its service manual that electrical safety requirements mandate that an X2 rated capacitor be used in this position, and in any position where a capacitor is directly connected to mains voltage. Using an X2 capacitor may save your home from burning down and so save property of even save lives.
And replace the 47nF cap (473 marking) with a 47nF, while replace the 22nF cap with a 22nF (223 marking). 22nF is for 230VAC amplifiers while 47nF is for 120VAC amplifiers.
A very good advice to wrap up, "to take home": Do not repair electronic devices e.g. amplifiers, if you are not a professional (e.g. a service technician). Do not do so, even if you are encouraged by people on forums like this one. They may have been just lucky to not suffer loss, but you may not be so lucky. An improper repair may result in fire, electric shock, maybe even loss of a human life or human lives.
And replace the 47nF cap (473 marking) with a 47nF, while replace the 22nF cap with a 22nF (223 marking). 22nF is for 230VAC amplifiers while 47nF is for 120VAC amplifiers.
A very good advice to wrap up, "to take home": Do not repair electronic devices e.g. amplifiers, if you are not a professional (e.g. a service technician). Do not do so, even if you are encouraged by people on forums like this one. They may have been just lucky to not suffer loss, but you may not be so lucky. An improper repair may result in fire, electric shock, maybe even loss of a human life or human lives.