As always, many thanks!
It is only 3.6 db of more headroom? Then I would keep it
like it is. No script. Audio and Video are interleaved in a file. I would need to split it, sync it again etc. No fun when you deal with 100 hours of footage. When it is really loud, I can switch to the cams onboard mics.. Again Marcel, many thanks for your help, thoughts and aid!
It is only 3.6 db of more headroom? Then I would keep it
like it is. No script. Audio and Video are interleaved in a file. I would need to split it, sync it again etc. No fun when you deal with 100 hours of footage. When it is really loud, I can switch to the cams onboard mics.. Again Marcel, many thanks for your help, thoughts and aid!
Hi. Just registered here (usualy at the other forum) to ask for a bit of clearness with the p1 modding.
i want to power a cloudlifter with the p1 wich gets signal from a moddern ribbon with 300ohms and so far my plan add a mic input xformer after the xvive p1 (redorder side) before line in/mic in of my recorder wich has low input impedance (mic 200 ohms and above, line 500 ohms and below)
will simply swapping the correct 2 elkos out for a higher version up to 47µF fix the issue or is that not possible bc of pcb restrictions?
are the elkos guaranteed the problem OP? Or could there be impedance mismatching? I am kinda not sure whats the verdict out of this thread and the amazon review. Please share bc i would like to use full frquency and not screw up a nice natural ribbon tone.
thanks
i want to power a cloudlifter with the p1 wich gets signal from a moddern ribbon with 300ohms and so far my plan add a mic input xformer after the xvive p1 (redorder side) before line in/mic in of my recorder wich has low input impedance (mic 200 ohms and above, line 500 ohms and below)
will simply swapping the correct 2 elkos out for a higher version up to 47µF fix the issue or is that not possible bc of pcb restrictions?
are the elkos guaranteed the problem OP? Or could there be impedance mismatching? I am kinda not sure whats the verdict out of this thread and the amazon review. Please share bc i would like to use full frquency and not screw up a nice natural ribbon tone.
thanks
Salar had two issues: loss of bass due to too small coupling capacitors in the Xvive phantom supply and loss of bass due to the poor microphone preamplifier in Salar's camera.
Fixing the loss of bass in the Xvive phantom supply was a matter of connecting extra (electrolytic) capacitors in parallel with the original ones.
The loss of bass due to the poor microphone preamplifier in the camera required Salar to use the line input instead and built an alternative microphone preamplifier small enough to be built into the phantom supply enclosure. Most of this long thread is about that alternative microphone preamplifier.
Fixing the loss of bass in the Xvive phantom supply was a matter of connecting extra (electrolytic) capacitors in parallel with the original ones.
The loss of bass due to the poor microphone preamplifier in the camera required Salar to use the line input instead and built an alternative microphone preamplifier small enough to be built into the phantom supply enclosure. Most of this long thread is about that alternative microphone preamplifier.
Thank you! So just to be sure what value electrolytic to what exact og ones please?
i assume to those red ceramics. No resistors and no impedance change/risk for things before/after the p1 right?
i assume to those red ceramics. No resistors and no impedance change/risk for things before/after the p1 right?
Hi, I did not put the new caps in parallel with the original SMD ones. I removed the originals and bridged the gap. Because space is so tight and traces so small, I soldered the Electrolytics/Elkos between the XLR pins and PCB.
Would parallel (wich means simply adding them to the legs of the ceramics right?) work too?
is the sound now unaltered by the p1? Not making sense to do all this if p1.
salar if parallel as marcel suggests wont work please explain or show in detail the bridge and elko placement so i can be aure not to blow things up
is the sound now unaltered by the p1? Not making sense to do all this if p1.
salar if parallel as marcel suggests wont work please explain or show in detail the bridge and elko placement so i can be aure not to blow things up
I did but its confusing that you refer to smd caps while i thought its about the red tht ceramics?
47uf in series to the red tht ones should work?
47uf in series to the red tht ones should work?
SMD removed-replaced with 4.7uF Foil - replaced with 47uF Elkos for lower corner frequency. Use the values of C4 and C5 of the last schematics, but 100uF is ok.
The negative pin is connected to where the signsl goes to.
Der negative Anschluss der Elkos wird in Signalrichtung angelötet. Soll heissen: kommen die Elkos vor die Platine des P1, wird der Positive Pol an dem XLR Eingang angelötet, der negative an der Leiterbahn, durch welche das Signal des Micros fliesst. Der Ministecker muss natürlich entfernt werden.
The negative pin is connected to where the signsl goes to.
Der negative Anschluss der Elkos wird in Signalrichtung angelötet. Soll heissen: kommen die Elkos vor die Platine des P1, wird der Positive Pol an dem XLR Eingang angelötet, der negative an der Leiterbahn, durch welche das Signal des Micros fliesst. Der Ministecker muss natürlich entfernt werden.
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Cant pm due to being new memebr so will continue here in board language.
sorry for asking hand holding but iam not sure the mod is for me when i need to touch smd parts.
do you think there is a simpler way when i make room for it? I plan to´ rehouse it with a cloudlifter pcb so i can make space but would prefer a simpler way to mod it. Can i leave everything as is and just add the elkos in series as marcel suggested?
sorry for asking hand holding but iam not sure the mod is for me when i need to touch smd parts.
do you think there is a simpler way when i make room for it? I plan to´ rehouse it with a cloudlifter pcb so i can make space but would prefer a simpler way to mod it. Can i leave everything as is and just add the elkos in series as marcel suggested?
As far as I remember, the higher the values for the caps, the better, as low values cut bass too early.
It also depends on the input resistance of the desination, your mixer. As far as I remember with my little knowledge: The value of the cap can be low i.e. 1uF if the input resistance of the destination is high, like 10Mohms. Problem was, that my camera has an input resistance of only 2kohms. So the low input resistance of 2kohms and the low value of the caps of the P1 acted as a highpass. This is why we had to start the whole stuff about raising the values of the caps as much as possible.
So if the mixer/Soundcard you use has a high input impedance, there is no reason to rouch the caps on the P1. Google „Sengpiel“ and „Hochpassfilter“ „Eckfrequenz“
It also depends on the input resistance of the desination, your mixer. As far as I remember with my little knowledge: The value of the cap can be low i.e. 1uF if the input resistance of the destination is high, like 10Mohms. Problem was, that my camera has an input resistance of only 2kohms. So the low input resistance of 2kohms and the low value of the caps of the P1 acted as a highpass. This is why we had to start the whole stuff about raising the values of the caps as much as possible.
So if the mixer/Soundcard you use has a high input impedance, there is no reason to rouch the caps on the P1. Google „Sengpiel“ and „Hochpassfilter“ „Eckfrequenz“
Thanks thats a new information. The recorder impedance super low (tape) but given this info i cant try to do transformer impedance adjustment, but would loose gain i guess. I will first try that + elkos in series with the tht caps
Do those through-hole caps have one pin connected to the input connector and the other to the output connector, possibly via a small resistor?
Connecting electrolytic capacitors in series with the original capacitors is just going to make things worse. Shorting the pads of the original capacitors and connecting electrolytic capacitors between the PCB and the output connector, as done by Salar if I understand it correctly, should work fine - provided you short the pads of the right capacitors.
Connecting electrolytic capacitors in series with the original capacitors is just going to make things worse. Shorting the pads of the original capacitors and connecting electrolytic capacitors between the PCB and the output connector, as done by Salar if I understand it correctly, should work fine - provided you short the pads of the right capacitors.