Pin 1: 2.60v
Pin 2: 2.59v
Pin 3: 0.01v
Pin 4: 0.16v
Pin 5: 2.05v
Pin 6: 3.80v
Pin 7: 2.04v
Pin 8: 4.92v
Pin 9: 2.11v
Pin 10: nothing
Pin 11: 2.60v
Pin 12: nothing
Pin 13: 11.22v
Pin 14: 2.60v
Pin 15: 11.22v
Pin 16:5.19v
just about the same as before.. but this time d27 did not light up
Pin 2: 2.59v
Pin 3: 0.01v
Pin 4: 0.16v
Pin 5: 2.05v
Pin 6: 3.80v
Pin 7: 2.04v
Pin 8: 4.92v
Pin 9: 2.11v
Pin 10: nothing
Pin 11: 2.60v
Pin 12: nothing
Pin 13: 11.22v
Pin 14: 2.60v
Pin 15: 11.22v
Pin 16:5.19v
just about the same as before.. but this time d27 did not light up
What is the DC voltage on the first leg of each of the power supply FETs?
If you read 0v, make sure that you still have approximately the same as you posted above.
If you read 0v, make sure that you still have approximately the same as you posted above.
ok.. well.. i cant seem to located the proper tool to remove the extra heatsink so i can read the number on the fets so im gonna assume that q4 thru q12 are the power supply fets. and not knowing which leg is the first one...
from left to right voltage is the same on all of them
1: 2.82v
2:11.91v
3: nothing
from left to right voltage is the same on all of them
1: 2.82v
2:11.91v
3: nothing
Confirm that you read ~0 ohms between the main ground on the amp and half of the speaker terminals.
on the 200 scale this is what i got..
left front:
+ term 77.5
- term 18.7
right front
+ term 18.7
- term varied from 13. to 15.
passive channels were both
+ term 82.0
- term varied from about 17. to 20.
mono channel
+ term varied around -70.
- term 18.6
left front:
+ term 77.5
- term 18.7
right front
+ term 18.7
- term varied from 13. to 15.
passive channels were both
+ term 82.0
- term varied from about 17. to 20.
mono channel
+ term varied around -70.
- term 18.6
Does your meter read 0 ohms when you touch the probes together?
Are you sure that it would have read 0 ohms when you measured the resistances above? If not, re-check the ones that read below 50 ohms.
Did you do this with no power applied?
Are you sure that it would have read 0 ohms when you measured the resistances above? If not, re-check the ones that read below 50 ohms.
Did you do this with no power applied?
when i touch the probes together on 200 scale... it reads 00.4
just a cheap meter from harbor freight tools...
amp did have power for those readings. with out power it reads -1 on right side of screen
just a cheap meter from harbor freight tools...
amp did have power for those readings. with out power it reads -1 on right side of screen
I don't work on many xtant amps but I thought that all used balanced inputs and had the non-bridging speaker terminals connected to the amp's main ground. I don't have a 3300 here so I can't confirm this. Maybe someone else here can check to see if they're supposed to be connected to the main ground.
not sure if this helps... taken from owners manual
Balanced / Floating Input: All “x” Series amplifiers offer input docking
ports which accept the optional Balanced Line Module (BLM-1). When added to
the input stage, this circuitry helps to eliminate “system noise” associated with
“ground-loops”. ive just got jumpers on those ports
i think the x and c are supposed to be the same amp???
i click on the link for c version but comes up with x and it looks the same..
also i completely disconnected the amp an brought it inside.. its way to cold to stand out there for to long 🙂
took those same readings again an got yet a diff reading??
left front
+ term nothing bridged term
- term 47.6
right front
+ term 47.6
- term nothing bridged term
same reading with the passive channels
mono channel
+ term nothing
- term 47.6
Balanced / Floating Input: All “x” Series amplifiers offer input docking
ports which accept the optional Balanced Line Module (BLM-1). When added to
the input stage, this circuitry helps to eliminate “system noise” associated with
“ground-loops”. ive just got jumpers on those ports
i think the x and c are supposed to be the same amp???
i click on the link for c version but comes up with x and it looks the same..
also i completely disconnected the amp an brought it inside.. its way to cold to stand out there for to long 🙂
took those same readings again an got yet a diff reading??
left front
+ term nothing bridged term
- term 47.6
right front
+ term 47.6
- term nothing bridged term
same reading with the passive channels
mono channel
+ term nothing
- term 47.6
The consistent readings between 3 of the terminals is better (less confusing).
If you set your meter to AC volts and touch the probes across the battery in your car, what does it read?
Do you have a power supply to power it up inside?
If you set your meter to AC volts and touch the probes across the battery in your car, what does it read?
Do you have a power supply to power it up inside?
on the ACV 200 setting it read 27.6
an i'm not sure about the power supply... i've been playing with a atx computer power supply converting it to a bench one... of sorts... rated at 12v 20amps.. but i'm not sure about it yet.
i've tried running stuff of pc psu before but always just shut down. the article i'm reading says something about adding some resistors to it to create a load. and that's supposed to fix it i guess..
an i'm not sure about the power supply... i've been playing with a atx computer power supply converting it to a bench one... of sorts... rated at 12v 20amps.. but i'm not sure about it yet.
i've tried running stuff of pc psu before but always just shut down. the article i'm reading says something about adding some resistors to it to create a load. and that's supposed to fix it i guess..
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Some meters won't read AC mixed with DC. Yours is one of those meters. Do you have another meter or can you borrow one (Fluke preferred)?
Sometimes, the start-up surge shuts down computer power supplies.
I've read that some supplies need a load to power up but I've never seen one that did and I've tested a lot of supplies.
Sometimes, the start-up surge shuts down computer power supplies.
I've read that some supplies need a load to power up but I've never seen one that did and I've tested a lot of supplies.
If it's not a fluke, you need to check to see if it reads DC as AC by touching it across the battery as you did with yours.
just to clarify..
i meant i have a power supply to hook up to the amp now..
the computer psu worked... 🙂
i meant i have a power supply to hook up to the amp now..
the computer psu worked... 🙂
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