Structural plywood is not generally recommend for speaker cabinets. Too many voids. Baltic birch plywood is much preferred.
Hi Thermal.
How are you going with the build?
Did you go for the optional ugrades (caps, resistors and tube posts)?
Do the instructions inform you how best glue together the two x 1" thick baffle panels? These need to be sandwhiched together.
Also, do the instructions advice to drill holes through internal panels marked C, so the wiring can be run from the crossovers to the external speakers?
I'm puzzled how you can line up and fit correctly the internal floor sections marked A, B, & C in the cabinet plans.
I was thinking, you'd need to rebate 1/4" channels in the side and rear panels so you can correctly fit and align the internal dividers.
Is that what you're doing?
cheers
Cliff
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Reading through this thread recommendations and other threads and forms on the speaker built there has been recommendations addressing different ways of doing the wiring to make it look neater and assembling the box so I’m learning on the shoulders of other people who came before me who did the hard work and we’re kind enough to post their findings and recommendations.
I will probably be using 7/8 inch thick Baltic Birch like I did my other speaker build the Fostex BK-20. I was even thinking of Sam and urging the entire front plate with a sound deadening absorbing material and laminate it between two pieces of 7/8” Baltic Birch. As for my final finish undecided it always could be changed at any time in a later date. At first I may just use possibly a stain maybe no stain and either clear lacquer or clear shellac. If I decide at a later date I want to veneer it I can always sanded down and veneer it or I could use the shellac or lacquer as a base and paint it a solid color if I choose so to match the decor of my living room.
As for free Time for my hobby is extremely limited I’m owner operator of two different businesses and when this shelter in place virus thing is over I have some night school classes I have to take so my projects take many months to complete. I’m actually busier right now because of this shelter in place virus thing because my competition are mostly closed down in my business is considered crucial service so I’m getting no off time rest I actually overtime.
I’ll post some pictures when I start cutting up the wood to assemble the cabinets along my progress.
Thanks Thermal.
The pieces which reinforce the enclosure and partition the woofer cavities marked A, B, & C in the cabinet plans would look difficult to place and glue without 1/4" rebated channels in the side and rear panels.
Will you be channeling the panels so you can correctly fit and align the internal dividers?
Also, has any thought gone into fitting a thicker (2 pieces laminated together) section of baffle board which holds the Woofers?
If you use 7/8" Birch panelling for the baffle, It might be critical that the 2 laminating panels, and acoustic deadener in between combine to a 2" thickness as specified by Danny R.
The other thing is that Danny described the soundwaves as wrapping around the baffle of open baffle speakers and then opening up at the rear.
I wonder if thought has gone into either having a sharp edged baffle board, or whether it should be rounded?
Most of the time you'd stuff a sealed cab with a long (vertical in this case) dimension fully. How dense is up to you, lining the walls with ultratouch recycled denim then stuffing the mid with some loose polyfill or some such is probably the way to go.
Some say overstuffing makes a boring sound, so watch out for that. To me, I'm a "large monitor" type of guy so I get my excitement from big drivers and amps rather than nuanced stuffing techniques.
Some say overstuffing makes a boring sound, so watch out for that. To me, I'm a "large monitor" type of guy so I get my excitement from big drivers and amps rather than nuanced stuffing techniques.
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