OK I have an anouncment and I am boasting
It’s my birthday net Wednesday and guess what my fiance bought me for a present?????
A pair of Vifa P13’s to add to the pair I ordered last week, you could have knocked me over with a feather when I opened the box from Speaker Bits and found four (YES 4!!!) drivers inside the box.
Is that high WAF or what??
Now that I have a quad of them my plans may change and I am open to suggestions
It’s my birthday net Wednesday and guess what my fiance bought me for a present?????
A pair of Vifa P13’s to add to the pair I ordered last week, you could have knocked me over with a feather when I opened the box from Speaker Bits and found four (YES 4!!!) drivers inside the box.
Is that high WAF or what??
Now that I have a quad of them my plans may change and I am open to suggestions
something like this would be very good ;-))
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/ARGOS/blackwood.html or
http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-aethers
except use a Jaycar 10" for bass and a 3-way series x-o.
Something similar to the Blackwood x-o would get you pretty close.
Do not ask the P13 to do bass and mid duties.
coordinate the speaker design with SWMBO !!
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/ARGOS/blackwood.html or
http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-aethers
except use a Jaycar 10" for bass and a 3-way series x-o.
Something similar to the Blackwood x-o would get you pretty close.
Do not ask the P13 to do bass and mid duties.
coordinate the speaker design with SWMBO !!
Andy what do you think of the Peerless 830668 woofer
http://www.speakerbits.com/Default.aspx?menupage=150&pi=3
Not to shabby on the graph and its reasonably cheap being made in China and optimised for sealed boxes.
http://www.speakerbits.com/Default.aspx?menupage=150&pi=3
Not to shabby on the graph and its reasonably cheap being made in China and optimised for sealed boxes.
I've had my eye on that one. looked at it more than once, but have not used it yet.
I have had an all Peerless version of Blackwood in mind, but it hasn't happened yet.
I won't tell you what I would be paying for that driver. You really ought to find an ABN and see if you can get 'trade' status with WES, great for prices on Vifa, Scan, Peerless !!!
I only pay $45 for the Jaycar 10"s !!! Not sure what retail price is.
Glad your other liked the reference !
I have had an all Peerless version of Blackwood in mind, but it hasn't happened yet.
I won't tell you what I would be paying for that driver. You really ought to find an ABN and see if you can get 'trade' status with WES, great for prices on Vifa, Scan, Peerless !!!
I only pay $45 for the Jaycar 10"s !!! Not sure what retail price is.
Glad your other liked the reference !
You have a pair of Jaycar 10" Response carbons???? Lucky boy !!! Put them in vented cabs you will get very, very nice bass !!! The carbons are even better than the polys, which I really like for bass work. Gumby used the 12" carbons.
The B139 is nice for bass too, but I think they require quite a big cab (again iirc). I have a pair in TL cabs, smooth and deep !!
But I would NOT mix bass drivers !!! One or tuther !!!
If you go OB mids, with the U-frame about 75mm deep behind the baffle, your cut off on the mids will be somewhere around 180ish iirc, which is perfect for the P13's, but means you really do have to use a normal old-style woofer, not a sub driver.
Also, the P13 prefers to cross around 2400Hz or a bit below at its top end.. Use a good tweeter (Seas are best value for money), and again you are just about in the optimum x-o region for both.
btw.. did you know we will soon have a new Seas dealer in Australia.... more later.... I'll post his web url when I get it.
The B139 is nice for bass too, but I think they require quite a big cab (again iirc). I have a pair in TL cabs, smooth and deep !!
But I would NOT mix bass drivers !!! One or tuther !!!
If you go OB mids, with the U-frame about 75mm deep behind the baffle, your cut off on the mids will be somewhere around 180ish iirc, which is perfect for the P13's, but means you really do have to use a normal old-style woofer, not a sub driver.
Also, the P13 prefers to cross around 2400Hz or a bit below at its top end.. Use a good tweeter (Seas are best value for money), and again you are just about in the optimum x-o region for both.
btw.. did you know we will soon have a new Seas dealer in Australia.... more later.... I'll post his web url when I get it.
SO!? youve finished the :Manhattens" then??
I may have offered to swap the Jaycar for your KEF's
I have a friend here in Reservoir ( Hungarian actually) who makes a great F&R woofer boxes using Jaycar drivers, and using drivers with different parametres seems to work in his front and rear firing units, I haven't built my Tardis yet, still saving and planning for the wedding .
BUT after the wedding ************ maybe I'll get some time to go out to the shed and play
I may have offered to swap the Jaycar for your KEF's
I have a friend here in Reservoir ( Hungarian actually) who makes a great F&R woofer boxes using Jaycar drivers, and using drivers with different parametres seems to work in his front and rear firing units, I haven't built my Tardis yet, still saving and planning for the wedding .
BUT after the wedding ************ maybe I'll get some time to go out to the shed and play
thats impressive.
i only knew one girl that actually appreciated high performance speakers.
with other girls it ranges from indifference ( using laptop speakers instead of a decent stereo because plugging the cable into laptop headphone output jack is too much hassle ) to antagonism ( using laptop speakers to listen to music because "bass makes my head hurt" )
i only knew one girl that actually appreciated high performance speakers.
with other girls it ranges from indifference ( using laptop speakers instead of a decent stereo because plugging the cable into laptop headphone output jack is too much hassle ) to antagonism ( using laptop speakers to listen to music because "bass makes my head hurt" )
Hi Andy, thanx for the look at "Blackwood" SWMBO likes the look of them.
I have been thinking of an open back midrange project for a while but was under the mistaken impression that a high Q driver was required.
A couple of questions if I may; I have a pair Vifa D27 tweeters here, would the cross-over designed for the reference project ( and shown on Rabbitz site) be adaptable for this ??? I have spare Behringers units here so I will cross to the woofers electronically and bi-amp.
Also would there be any need for acoustic damping at rear, given that I would keep the side wings to around 100mm deep, also what advantage if any is there to having the wings at an angle and if using an angle what angle gives the best responce? Do you use the usual mirror image format with offcentre placement of the drivers in an open baffle? or is it less critical in this application??
I will use the jaycar carbon fibre bass drivers, but probably sealed with first order passive hi-pass, and possibly front and rear firing.
regards
I have been thinking of an open back midrange project for a while but was under the mistaken impression that a high Q driver was required.
A couple of questions if I may; I have a pair Vifa D27 tweeters here, would the cross-over designed for the reference project ( and shown on Rabbitz site) be adaptable for this ??? I have spare Behringers units here so I will cross to the woofers electronically and bi-amp.
Also would there be any need for acoustic damping at rear, given that I would keep the side wings to around 100mm deep, also what advantage if any is there to having the wings at an angle and if using an angle what angle gives the best responce? Do you use the usual mirror image format with offcentre placement of the drivers in an open baffle? or is it less critical in this application??
I will use the jaycar carbon fibre bass drivers, but probably sealed with first order passive hi-pass, and possibly front and rear firing.
regards
Hi Q is only really applicaable for bass OB stuff, doesn't matter for mids
D27's are good tweeters, but I can't comment about the x-o needed, sorry.
for 4"-5" drivers the U-frame depth is 4" from front of baffle (I use 70mm timber behind the baffle, which is about the same thing.
Your ears and your room will tell you if a layer of poly wadding is required behind the drivers.
baffle placement depends on your whim . could use pure vertical if you want. only measuremenst will tell you the difference, I think.
D27's are good tweeters, but I can't comment about the x-o needed, sorry.
for 4"-5" drivers the U-frame depth is 4" from front of baffle (I use 70mm timber behind the baffle, which is about the same thing.
Your ears and your room will tell you if a layer of poly wadding is required behind the drivers.
baffle placement depends on your whim . could use pure vertical if you want. only measuremenst will tell you the difference, I think.
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