Vituixcad is a tool designed to work with the full spectrum of off-axis measurements. If all one wants to do is study on-axis response to passive crossover networks, I find XSim to be more useful.
XSim free crossover designer
Vituixcad is extremely powerful, but like any powerful tool, it is best suited to experts. I have been doing this for years, and Vituixcad can make me feel like an idiot sometimes. I have not mastered it, I am only just becoming comfortable with the basics of it.
XSim is much more limited, but much easier and faster to use.
XSim free crossover designer
Vituixcad is extremely powerful, but like any powerful tool, it is best suited to experts. I have been doing this for years, and Vituixcad can make me feel like an idiot sometimes. I have not mastered it, I am only just becoming comfortable with the basics of it.
XSim is much more limited, but much easier and faster to use.
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More limited makes it easier and faster for beginners because user can't screw up anything he doesn't have.
Nothing. I was just saying that there is no such speaker project which would not deserve proper design methods and tools. Any method and tool supporting on-axis or some other single direction is not proper. Just a nightmare which has lasted for decades and still continues on diyaudio.
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Experienced forum members could shape up and bury all that crap for good so that beginners would have some chances to learn.
People have been doing full crossovers for so long, using conventional simulators. They could learn for themselves how to do it.
They may have to calculate power themselves, but a spreadsheet could do it, or we could code it. Measure through the crossover and adjust for power incrementally..
It took a little longer but we were in control, so we could do unconventional DIY designs. I used to find Speaker Workshop useful at all levels because it could do response plot arithmetic. I could explore and cultivate ideas on EQ and translate them back to a crossover.
They may have to calculate power themselves, but a spreadsheet could do it, or we could code it. Measure through the crossover and adjust for power incrementally..
It took a little longer but we were in control, so we could do unconventional DIY designs. I used to find Speaker Workshop useful at all levels because it could do response plot arithmetic. I could explore and cultivate ideas on EQ and translate them back to a crossover.
This looks so real, clear, helpful and easy for everyone that I could stop developing and publishing anything else.
check out the green and red line in your first picture. I think you are losing some frequency between 1khz and 2khz in which is at its weekest point -10db..
You need to adjust the crossover there so it matches these frequency better.
Well, I think you know better. Anyway, keep up the good work. Last time I developed a tool was about 30 years ago, it was implemented on a MacPlus, worked for me but was crap to today's standards. I'd hate to see I had to start that all over again.
Just wait until you get older, and hearing past 15k Hz stops becoming an issue! Do you know how high you can hear? Everyone is different, but most adults max out 15-17k.
-Geoff
Good point, I lived on the farm as a kid and I could hear bats up until I was early 30s.
Can't hear them any more very often.
Too much loud dance music.
I looks good, but I would lower the midrange a notch, it might sound tiring after a while.
The unfortunate side effect of an audio habit - by the time you can afford the good stuff and have time to tinker, the effects of old age start catching up!
-Geoff
The two woofers will be closer to the listener... the heights are wrong though in that pic...
Yeah it looks great. My current PMC OB1s have a similar looking mid-range and they sound good. I think they are scanspeak.
Or this: 21/2″ SATORI MD60N-6 / Fabric – Sbacoustics
My preference for cross over at the bass end is 700Hz - 900Hz and 3.5KHz - 4KHz for the treble. This is formulated from the following reasoning.
A flatter phase for mid range improves realism.
The upper frequency has to allow the tweeter to integrate wavelength-wise with relative baffle positions.
The lower frequency should be an octave above resonance.
400Hz is where bass warmth occurs. This should be handled by the biggest driver.
The crossover is a window and not a specific frequency. This allows the drivers and the crossover to find a 'best fit'. This is less work than forcing the design to adhere to absolutes. The Morel driver seems to be a perfect fit for this kind of alignment. It is oft stated that mid range should guide the design. I agree.
A flatter phase for mid range improves realism.
The upper frequency has to allow the tweeter to integrate wavelength-wise with relative baffle positions.
The lower frequency should be an octave above resonance.
400Hz is where bass warmth occurs. This should be handled by the biggest driver.
The crossover is a window and not a specific frequency. This allows the drivers and the crossover to find a 'best fit'. This is less work than forcing the design to adhere to absolutes. The Morel driver seems to be a perfect fit for this kind of alignment. It is oft stated that mid range should guide the design. I agree.
Thanks
I've just been tweaking tonight and have a nice flat line crossing at 700 and 5700.
Something must be wrong as it's a flat line at 95dB!
Using this Mid: https://sbacoustics.com/product/2-5in-satori-md60n-6-fabric/
I'll post pics in the morning as I really want to start buying the components.
You have made a radical switch from a 5 inch cone to a 2.5 inch dome. There are evaluations of some finer points needed. If you have not already done so, visit Troels Gravesen's website and read his own reviews. He has tried just about everything.
Two things to think about (not the only two). The dispersion of the mid and tweeter should blend at crossover. The datasheets show off-axis responses. The Morel will probably have lower distortion at the lower end due to its 1mm travel. The Satori is 0.5mm. There is no wrong or right.
A cautionary word.
I persuaded a colleague to build rather buy a speaker. Of course I ended up doing it all, as I had the experience. When it came to completing the crossover, my workmate who had seen all the design simulations, expected me to install it and button it up. Two and half hours later he was frustrated by my tinkering. Each change was followed by audition. Finally he sat down and I witnessed an OMG look on his face. I stood by the side and smirked. Job done.
As this is your first serious design, expect the final result to be a long drawn out process.
Two things to think about (not the only two). The dispersion of the mid and tweeter should blend at crossover. The datasheets show off-axis responses. The Morel will probably have lower distortion at the lower end due to its 1mm travel. The Satori is 0.5mm. There is no wrong or right.
A cautionary word.
I persuaded a colleague to build rather buy a speaker. Of course I ended up doing it all, as I had the experience. When it came to completing the crossover, my workmate who had seen all the design simulations, expected me to install it and button it up. Two and half hours later he was frustrated by my tinkering. Each change was followed by audition. Finally he sat down and I witnessed an OMG look on his face. I stood by the side and smirked. Job done.
As this is your first serious design, expect the final result to be a long drawn out process.
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