speakers in parallel and load resistors
as you stated earlier that putting the drivers in parallel would drasticly lower the impedance to the amplifier thus be harmful to to the amplifier, so I need to raise the resistance to stablize the amplifier. Speakers in series the impedance of one affects the other since it will vary voltage between the two, where as using them in parallel will divide the voltage equally, therefore uniform response between the two. Since I have to use the best linear spread of FR matched the best linear spread of linear impedance with the lower impedance being 4 + 4 for amplifier impedance + 4 to stretch FR Range in the lower range divided 2 + .8 for capacitance adjustment
My speaker are mounted on the wall and the room is more wide then long so I wanted a cone drive to help with dispersion and I do not listen to music very loud and I will be time phase aligning the bose at the crossover frequency and the brightness will be ajsuted
the notch filter is for the vifa that I will flatten out a little
as you stated earlier that putting the drivers in parallel would drasticly lower the impedance to the amplifier thus be harmful to to the amplifier, so I need to raise the resistance to stablize the amplifier. Speakers in series the impedance of one affects the other since it will vary voltage between the two, where as using them in parallel will divide the voltage equally, therefore uniform response between the two. Since I have to use the best linear spread of FR matched the best linear spread of linear impedance with the lower impedance being 4 + 4 for amplifier impedance + 4 to stretch FR Range in the lower range divided 2 + .8 for capacitance adjustment
My speaker are mounted on the wall and the room is more wide then long so I wanted a cone drive to help with dispersion and I do not listen to music very loud and I will be time phase aligning the bose at the crossover frequency and the brightness will be ajsuted
the notch filter is for the vifa that I will flatten out a little
send me your email or
go by this discription
positive bass lead load resistor to LP coil to capacitor in parallel
.72 mH coil 3.3 capacitor
figuring around 3.9 load resistor will determine correct value from final testing
tweeters .08 mH in parallel for for 12 or 15 k 1.73 C is added to branched off from the lower end tweeter that has 5.3 C so the two will be in series
tweeter 3Khz to 12 or 15 Khz .35 mH plus the .08 mH and a 5.3 capacitor in series before the inductor coils
additonal resistance will be add to parallel paths for stablizing and voltage push back
go by this discription
positive bass lead load resistor to LP coil to capacitor in parallel
.72 mH coil 3.3 capacitor
figuring around 3.9 load resistor will determine correct value from final testing
tweeters .08 mH in parallel for for 12 or 15 k 1.73 C is added to branched off from the lower end tweeter that has 5.3 C so the two will be in series
tweeter 3Khz to 12 or 15 Khz .35 mH plus the .08 mH and a 5.3 capacitor in series before the inductor coils
additonal resistance will be add to parallel paths for stablizing and voltage push back
what alien language are you guys bantering back and forth lol. i just want to make a nice looking and sounding set of speakers. now it seems it is an almost impossible task unless i can learn to decipher this cryptic language of yours. back to the books i guess ggrrrrr.! i knew i should have started younger
cant you read the other posts?
They were inquiring about the speakers I am building and since I am using silverflutes speakers which was talked about earlier and they are interested in my speaker design and not yours on some of these responses. We will at time switch topics. To fill you in on the so call foreign language you should look up crossover designing and electronic terminology
understand what a Butterworth LR Bessel first order second order 3 order 4 order and find a page with audio electrical glossary
speaker building is not as easy people think you just dont put a bunch of speakers in a box and wire them together most of the cost in speaker designing is in time and experimentation and correcting thing you do something incorrect you will either blow or burn your speaker or burn out your amp 
They were inquiring about the speakers I am building and since I am using silverflutes speakers which was talked about earlier and they are interested in my speaker design and not yours on some of these responses. We will at time switch topics. To fill you in on the so call foreign language you should look up crossover designing and electronic terminology
understand what a Butterworth LR Bessel first order second order 3 order 4 order and find a page with audio electrical glossary
speaker building is not as easy people think you just dont put a bunch of speakers in a box and wire them together most of the cost in speaker designing is in time and experimentation and correcting thing you do something incorrect you will either blow or burn your speaker or burn out your amp Hi mcmahon,
I hope you dont mind if I describe the xo here to make it clearer to understand by others.
The bass section of he xo consist of 2nd order L-C network, But with a resistor before that, To raise the impedance due to the very low impedance posed by the 2 paralleled 4ohms woofer, as supposed by mcmahon. Which is the wrong way to do it if you ask me.
I hope you dont mind if I describe the xo here to make it clearer to understand by others.
The bass section of he xo consist of 2nd order L-C network, But with a resistor before that, To raise the impedance due to the very low impedance posed by the 2 paralleled 4ohms woofer, as supposed by mcmahon. Which is the wrong way to do it if you ask me.
go by this discription
positive bass lead load resistor to LP(low Pass Filter) coil to capacitor in parallel
(.72 mH coil value) 3.3 capacitor
figuring around 3.9 load resistor( a resistor that is put in to increase the impedance to the circuit so it will be in the safe rage of the amplifier) will determine correct value from final testing
tweeters .08 mH in parallel for for 12 or 15 k ( frequency crossover at 120001 or at 15000).73 C (capacitance value)is added to branched off from the lower end tweeter that has 5.3 C so the two will be in series
tweeter 3Khz to 12 or 15 Khz Frequency range of 1 tweeter will be from 3000 hz to either 120000 or 15000hz) .35 mH plus the .08 mH and a 5.3 capacitor in series before the inductor coils
additonal resistance will be add to parallel paths for stablizing and voltage push back( a resistor that stablizes and also redirects part of the voltage and current to the speaker to keep volume up
positive bass lead load resistor to LP(low Pass Filter) coil to capacitor in parallel
(.72 mH coil value) 3.3 capacitor
figuring around 3.9 load resistor( a resistor that is put in to increase the impedance to the circuit so it will be in the safe rage of the amplifier) will determine correct value from final testing
tweeters .08 mH in parallel for for 12 or 15 k ( frequency crossover at 120001 or at 15000).73 C (capacitance value)is added to branched off from the lower end tweeter that has 5.3 C so the two will be in series
tweeter 3Khz to 12 or 15 Khz Frequency range of 1 tweeter will be from 3000 hz to either 120000 or 15000hz) .35 mH plus the .08 mH and a 5.3 capacitor in series before the inductor coils
additonal resistance will be add to parallel paths for stablizing and voltage push back( a resistor that stablizes and also redirects part of the voltage and current to the speaker to keep volume up
which is better using two woofer/ mid in parallel or in series
I am think of getting equal power to the mid/woofers for better sound and less inter-reaction between the impedance in series and how it affect the sound
linear impedance is around 70 to 4000 from 4 down to 2 ohms
if allow up to 12 ohms of impedance I get up 40Hz at the low end
I chose 3khz and preferr 12k for 2 octave spread
I do not know how well the Vifa is able to radiat off axis in the 3k to 16k and it about 2db above 90db which is where the silverflute are very smoothe at
I do not have the FR Graph and impedance yet I am hoping that the bose tweeter will be smother in the 3k to 12k range I add another capacitor in series to drop the capcitance to the next xover point and using a l pad to adjust the brightness and drop off with impedance going up where the other comes in or use a notch filter to slope down and out if need be
I used the calculators at http://ccs.exl.info/calc_cr.html#second
I chose the impedance of the Vifa also at 4 ohm
The two coils add together for the inductance of the lower tweeter and the smaller coil for the inductor for the higher frequency
I am still working on the cabinet dimensions
here is something you can help me on I heard not to place the speaker in the middle of the cabinet wall suggestion on place ment
I am think of getting equal power to the mid/woofers for better sound and less inter-reaction between the impedance in series and how it affect the sound
linear impedance is around 70 to 4000 from 4 down to 2 ohms
if allow up to 12 ohms of impedance I get up 40Hz at the low end
I chose 3khz and preferr 12k for 2 octave spread
I do not know how well the Vifa is able to radiat off axis in the 3k to 16k and it about 2db above 90db which is where the silverflute are very smoothe at
I do not have the FR Graph and impedance yet I am hoping that the bose tweeter will be smother in the 3k to 12k range I add another capacitor in series to drop the capcitance to the next xover point and using a l pad to adjust the brightness and drop off with impedance going up where the other comes in or use a notch filter to slope down and out if need be
I used the calculators at http://ccs.exl.info/calc_cr.html#second
I chose the impedance of the Vifa also at 4 ohm
The two coils add together for the inductance of the lower tweeter and the smaller coil for the inductor for the higher frequency
I am still working on the cabinet dimensions
here is something you can help me on I heard not to place the speaker in the middle of the cabinet wall suggestion on place ment
No matter what, the load on your amp is always drivers DC resistance
Though I have some experience with crossover i must admit I really dont understand much of what it is you are talking about
Even a measured crossover doesnt work in first shot, so you cant expect this will either...apparently simulated XOs do, which I dont understand either
Though I have some experience with crossover i must admit I really dont understand much of what it is you are talking about
Even a measured crossover doesnt work in first shot, so you cant expect this will either...apparently simulated XOs do, which I dont understand either
Re: cant you read the other posts?
Hmmm....
Reading the above you seem to think you know what you are doing.
You do not ..... and you are not helping the original poster at all.
Your crossover is confused garbage (not to put too fine a point
on it) and you need to learn a lot more about speaker design.
Take a look at the links in post #3.
Design a proper MTM using the XT25 tweeter. (2 way)
Or possibly a MMT 2.5 way using the XT25 tweeter.
(The chances of the bose tweeter being useful are near zero IMO)
For a 8 ohm speaker you use two 4 ohm drivers in series.
Putting them in parallel and then adding a circa 4 ohm
series resistor to them is mindnumbingly clueless.
So is a MTMT with a T to T crossover point of 12KHz.
MTTM would indicate at least some understanding.
/sreten.
(Offence is not intended, just trying to illustrate the reality)
mcmahon48 said:
mcmahon48 said:They were inquiring about the speakers I am building and since I am using silverflutes speakers which was talked about earlier and they are interested in my speaker design and not yours on some of these responses. We will at time switch topics. To fill you in on the so call foreign language you should look up crossover designing and electronic terminology
understand what a Butterworth LR Bessel first order second order 3 order 4 order and find a page with audio electrical glossary
Hmmm....
Reading the above you seem to think you know what you are doing.
You do not ..... and you are not helping the original poster at all.
Your crossover is confused garbage (not to put too fine a point
on it) and you need to learn a lot more about speaker design.
Take a look at the links in post #3.
Design a proper MTM using the XT25 tweeter. (2 way)
Or possibly a MMT 2.5 way using the XT25 tweeter.
(The chances of the bose tweeter being useful are near zero IMO)
For a 8 ohm speaker you use two 4 ohm drivers in series.
Putting them in parallel and then adding a circa 4 ohm
series resistor to them is mindnumbingly clueless.
So is a MTMT with a T to T crossover point of 12KHz.
MTTM would indicate at least some understanding.
/sreten.(Offence is not intended, just trying to illustrate the reality)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=139289
Thread regarding the (t)MTM,/sreten.
Thread regarding the (t)MTM,
/sreten.all, while being a noob to speaker building i am certainly no noob to forums and the occasional thread hi jacking. i was just trying to interject a little levity into a subject that looked to be turning into a bit of a bashing session on said hijacker. guess he told me didn't he lol.
before i built my first pc it was all goobledygook too and then i read and learned and don't buy mainstream anymore. this too i can do with speakers i believe. i will however refrain from these boards until i can comprehend the language of xover design and building. thanks
before i built my first pc it was all goobledygook too and then i read and learned and don't buy mainstream anymore. this too i can do with speakers i believe. i will however refrain from these boards until i can comprehend the language of xover design and building. thanks
Hi,
I was not implying the jacking was deliberate, maybe niave.
There is no need to refrain unless you are determined to design
your own speaker, which TBH for a 6.5"/1" 2 way is somewhat
pointless for the good driver choices, usually some one has
been there already.
The SDX7 is not a good bass/mid for a 1" tweeter 2 way.
What are you planning ? Use with a subwoofer or not ?
/sreten.
I was not implying the jacking was deliberate, maybe niave.
There is no need to refrain unless you are determined to design
your own speaker, which TBH for a 6.5"/1" 2 way is somewhat
pointless for the good driver choices, usually some one has
been there already.
The SDX7 is not a good bass/mid for a 1" tweeter 2 way.
What are you planning ? Use with a subwoofer or not ?
/sreten.sorry it is my first project too
I apologize for what appeared as hijacking the topic
like most of us we all are trying to get the best performance and he did not understand the jargon. so I was suggesting that he look up the terminology so that it would help him, and for me I do not have expensive software to model the speakers and knowing that speakers have their strengths and weaknesses. I have spent a lot time trying to figure out the pro and cons and I still dont understand everything and that is why something that is related to my project I will ask questions
jumping into a little bit too much
I apologize for what appeared as hijacking the topic
like most of us we all are trying to get the best performance and he did not understand the jargon. so I was suggesting that he look up the terminology so that it would help him, and for me I do not have expensive software to model the speakers and knowing that speakers have their strengths and weaknesses. I have spent a lot time trying to figure out the pro and cons and I still dont understand everything and that is why something that is related to my project I will ask questions
jumping into a little bit too muchno apologies are needed here .
you know i can't even answer the question about a sub or not as i don't know if i will need one. there are just too many great looking designs available that i am still undecided as what to build. i don't think i should start with a 3-way tower and expect it to rival a 20,000.00 dollar system. not yet anyway.
my main confusion is tackling the software and jargon in xover design and i was and still am terrible with math. you start mixing letters and numbers together for any reason besides a license plate and i'm lost haha.
i believe i should start with a very good book on it and do some trial and error on say a smaller two way from zaphs maybe. and i still need to know what all the types are tm, mtm, ob, tmmtmr obct trmrblt or something like that. i have a folder full of designs others from the various forums have posted and hit all the speaker houses printing off the types that were used. maybe a an unassembled kit would be the way to start. anyway i hope to be able to upload a product for review in several months.
. you know i can't even answer the question about a sub or not as i don't know if i will need one. there are just too many great looking designs available that i am still undecided as what to build. i don't think i should start with a 3-way tower and expect it to rival a 20,000.00 dollar system. not yet anyway.
my main confusion is tackling the software and jargon in xover design and i was and still am terrible with math. you start mixing letters and numbers together for any reason besides a license plate and i'm lost haha.
i believe i should start with a very good book on it and do some trial and error on say a smaller two way from zaphs maybe. and i still need to know what all the types are tm, mtm, ob, tmmtmr obct trmrblt or something like that. i have a folder full of designs others from the various forums have posted and hit all the speaker houses printing off the types that were used. maybe a an unassembled kit would be the way to start. anyway i hope to be able to upload a product for review in several months.
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