My room is 16' by 43' so pretty large, but I would be mostly sitting only 10-12 feet away from the speakers. I've never built a speaker cabinet before, but had looked a lot at the frugal horn stuff like 5 years ago. I have no issue with cutting weird angles and stuff since I have been woodworking for over a decade. I like the Kirishima plans from frugal horn. Is there a full range driver priced like the FE206En or other enclosures I should look at? Thanks!
Many designs are intended to be simple wood working wise, as most dont have the tools and experience you have to fabricate. I suppose it comes down to complexity of the project and how much build challenge you'd like to take on.
Some of the Woden designs Woden Design look like they have a few more internal pieces to make up the cabinet - perhaps they'd be more of a challenge to construct.
I've been thinking "Metronome" lately, but that's just a table 'n jig saw construct-able.
Some of the Woden designs Woden Design look like they have a few more internal pieces to make up the cabinet - perhaps they'd be more of a challenge to construct.
I've been thinking "Metronome" lately, but that's just a table 'n jig saw construct-able.
Is there a full range driver priced like the FE206En or other enclosures I should look at?
There are a wealth of drivers in similar pice class to FE206 that are well liked.
Kirishima, except for making sure all the pieces go to the right place, and it is big is not that challenging a woodwork issue.
Kirishima will play really loud with little power. Good bass, mids, a bit rough up top. It really wants a high output impedance amplifier to work best.
What amp do you have?
I tend towards the Mark Audio drivers, the cousins of Kirishima’s big brother, Woden Vulcan, Avebury (Alpair 12p) & Brodgar (Apair 11ms), are simialr size to Kirishima, take advantage of room boundaries to go lower, and ar emuch more agnostic to what amp you use.
dave
My amp is currently an old yamaha rx n600. Ive only ever hooked it up to stereo speakers but it was given to me back in collage. I wouldn't be surprised if I need to upgrade, but it would be great to not to so Mark Audio drivers sound nice if they aren't so picky. Those speaker designs like the Avebury look pretty cool too. Thanks!
My room is 16' by 43' so pretty large
I'll say. That's larger than some entire apartments and condos. Heck, I've even been in houses smaller than that.
All I can add to what these smart guys are saying is consider an auxiliary woofer. That's a lot of space to fill and FR drivers might leave you wanting even with the specialized boxes of today.
Mark Audio drivers tend to work with all decent amps i used on them, but that yamaha will be way to powerfull for them. They need max 50w. A good cheaper one is the Marantz PM5005 if you need to buy something new. I use the precestor of it with great success. Tube amps work also very good on them btw... I use own designs altough, not those that Dave mentioned.
Cal, the big horns do pretty decent bass. That large cabinet does a lot to replace an added woofer by multiplying the output of the FR driver.
dave
dave
Yup, the larger MA drivers (110 - 120mm nominal diameter) would be at the top of my list, and definitely enclosures of the tall double mouth style such as Silbury, Avebury, etc would do a pretty decent job of filling a room that size - but I wouldn’t dismiss Cal’s suggestion re powered sub(s).
As for “too much power”, for me downsizing the amp wouldn’t be a priority of system design choices. Over the past 20yrs, I’ve built/owned a fair range of amps from flea power tubed to 100+ Watt class D, and am now much happier with my “higher” powered SS units.
As for “too much power”, for me downsizing the amp wouldn’t be a priority of system design choices. Over the past 20yrs, I’ve built/owned a fair range of amps from flea power tubed to 100+ Watt class D, and am now much happier with my “higher” powered SS units.
There are a wealth of drivers in similar pice class to FE206 that are well liked.
Kirishima, except for making sure all the pieces go to the right place, and it is big is not that challenging a woodwork issue.
Kirishima will play really loud with little power. Good bass, mids, a bit rough up top. It really wants a high output impedance amplifier to work best.
What amp do you have?
I tend towards the Mark Audio drivers, the cousins of Kirishima’s big brother, Woden Vulcan, Avebury (Alpair 12p) & Brodgar (Apair 11ms), are simialr size to Kirishima, take advantage of room boundaries to go lower, and ar emuch more agnostic to what amp you use.
dave
I was not aware of the Brodgar. That would be an awesome project for anyone desiring a cabinet that big. That speaker driven by an SMSL DA-8s would really be amazing.
I wonder how the Frugel-Horn XL would compare with the Brodgar Horn side by side both mounted with Alpair 11ms drivers. Someone must have built Brodgar Horns by now. The Alpair 11ms drivers are extremely good. Maybe none better in the full range category.
The big boz extract sthe most out of the driver, and being specific to the driver, not so generic as the FHXL also helps.
dave
dave
Just to add more information into this thread, has Scott designed an Olson-style Double Path Manifold Horn for the Mark Audio Alpair 7ms as well ?
A little more intricate internally for the woodworker I see.
I wonder what would happen if you could make that square plate behind the speaker translate, so as to adjust the cavity volume somewhat from the outside? I wonder how one could make such a thing with no rubbing, buzzing...
Anyway, back to reality. I bet Scott would design it for any speaker driver you pay him to do. Even a Lii F15..."Hope you got a big house" -
I wonder what would happen if you could make that square plate behind the speaker translate, so as to adjust the cavity volume somewhat from the outside? I wonder how one could make such a thing with no rubbing, buzzing...
Anyway, back to reality. I bet Scott would design it for any speaker driver you pay him to do. Even a Lii F15..."Hope you got a big house" -
There have been a couple efforts to use the extra void to allow the creation of a quite non-rectangular air cavity.
Taking the Air Cavity/pre-chamber to the next level...
dave
Taking the Air Cavity/pre-chamber to the next level...
dave
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