If you mean the Klipsch speakers I am replacing, yeah they do have an original look hehe.
I was wondering if it was possible to open them and re-use them in another set of speakers. Maybe add a bigger woofer to give them some bass too.
Another project!
Structure is done!
Again, because of my warped wood I had to turn them sideways, making the internal walls not tall enough. I had to join 2 pieces in each slot in order to achieve the proper length. I am not very happy with the result but I am hoping that with proper sanding and filling the gaps with a mix of glue and wood dust it will look better.
Ok, time to attack the baffles! I bought a Jasper Circle Jig Model 400 for my router. It was my first time using that so I tested it on a piece of scrap wood. It works like a charm!
To note :
On the plan, it specifies that the outer radius of the Alpair 5.2 is 3"15/16 and inner radius 3"1/16. It was too tight to fit, I had to increase the radius by 1/16 and it fits perfectly!
3"15/16 becomes 4"
3"1/16 becomes 3"1/8
I have a question to ask those who constructed this speaker before.
How do you manage to bevel the inside of the hole at 45 degrees? It is not thick enough for even a small router bit to "roll".
Thanks!
Again, because of my warped wood I had to turn them sideways, making the internal walls not tall enough. I had to join 2 pieces in each slot in order to achieve the proper length. I am not very happy with the result but I am hoping that with proper sanding and filling the gaps with a mix of glue and wood dust it will look better.
Ok, time to attack the baffles! I bought a Jasper Circle Jig Model 400 for my router. It was my first time using that so I tested it on a piece of scrap wood. It works like a charm!
To note :
On the plan, it specifies that the outer radius of the Alpair 5.2 is 3"15/16 and inner radius 3"1/16. It was too tight to fit, I had to increase the radius by 1/16 and it fits perfectly!
3"15/16 becomes 4"
3"1/16 becomes 3"1/8
I have a question to ask those who constructed this speaker before.
How do you manage to bevel the inside of the hole at 45 degrees? It is not thick enough for even a small router bit to "roll".
Thanks!
rasp away
Yes that will work fine.
Make sure you mark out where your mounting screws go and leave some extra wood near those locations. IE; do not bevel the entire circle as you will not have enough wood to hold the screws tight.
Yes that will work fine.
Make sure you mark out where your mounting screws go and leave some extra wood near those locations. IE; do not bevel the entire circle as you will not have enough wood to hold the screws tight.
Ok thanks for the tip!
I was wondering, does it have to be 45 degrees? Can it be another angle, or can it be rounded?
I was wondering, does it have to be 45 degrees? Can it be another angle, or can it be rounded?
I wouldn't round it. As far as the angle, the more air that can move past it without restriction, the better. As an exagerated, unreal example: if the baffle were the same thickness as the recessed rim of the speaker, that would be ideal.
Mike
Mike
Victory!
Lazy me won again and used the router!
My brother gave me the idea. I made a hole the same size as the inner hole in another plank and used it as a guide underneath my main plank. Works like a charm!
Lazy me won again and used the router!
My brother gave me the idea. I made a hole the same size as the inner hole in another plank and used it as a guide underneath my main plank. Works like a charm!
I finally had time to continue. A lot of progress was made in the last couple days. First, I finished the structure of the speakers, and started gluing the damping material. Simple wood glues does a marvellous job! It is a pain in the *** to cut thickness wise though.
I then glued the back walls, and pierced the holes for the terminal cups. The terminal cups I bought last year are way too big for no reason I think. I wish I had chosen something else, but oh well, I'll live with it! I had to chop some plastic pieces on the "hidden" side of the cups as they were too long and touched the wall inside.
I'm quite satisfied with how they turned out. Piercing the holes was a step that was stressful but it went very well. Time to pass the wires and glue the top pieces!
Can't wait to finish assembling all the pieces and to try them out!
I then glued the back walls, and pierced the holes for the terminal cups. The terminal cups I bought last year are way too big for no reason I think. I wish I had chosen something else, but oh well, I'll live with it! I had to chop some plastic pieces on the "hidden" side of the cups as they were too long and touched the wall inside.
I'm quite satisfied with how they turned out. Piercing the holes was a step that was stressful but it went very well. Time to pass the wires and glue the top pieces!
Can't wait to finish assembling all the pieces and to try them out!
Almost there!
Only have to pierce the front faces and glue them up, then I can finally listen to them hehe.
Only have to pierce the front faces and glue them up, then I can finally listen to them hehe.
Lots of job done since last update. Pierced the holes for the actual speakers, which went rather well except for one moment where my guide slipped. Stupid mistake on my part.
Of course the missing piece is right where a screw is supposed to go!
So I had to trace on another piece of wood and cut as best as I can with the router and a little sanding to fix it. I was afraid it would rip apart when trimming with the router after gluing but nope it went well!
Let's attach the wires with rubber band and test them out!
So, my fist listening impressions. Please keep in mind that I don't really have the audiophile vocabulary hehe.
I was a bit short on time so I just unplugged my Klipsch floorstanding speakers from my 20 years-old-cheapest-of-the-store Kenwood amplifier in the living room and used the wires for the Bloodhound. I was quite underwhelmed with the sound quality. It felt very "light" with almost no bass. The highs were piercing and too present for my taste. I did not like what I heard. That was a bit disappointing to say the least.
Later. I took the time to plug them on my work desk where they should be. I am running a Loxjie D30 DAC with a simple SMSL Audio SA-36A amplifier. The difference was mind blowing. It went from "meh..." to "wow!".
The sound is much more pleasing to the ear. The highs are not piercing anymore, they feel just right and precise. The mids are pleasing and the bass, while not powerful, are tight and not overwhelming, which I really like.
I need to unplug them now and work on the sanding and finishing. I am going with oil. I will post some pictures once they are done.
Of course the missing piece is right where a screw is supposed to go!
So I had to trace on another piece of wood and cut as best as I can with the router and a little sanding to fix it. I was afraid it would rip apart when trimming with the router after gluing but nope it went well!
Let's attach the wires with rubber band and test them out!
So, my fist listening impressions. Please keep in mind that I don't really have the audiophile vocabulary hehe.
I was a bit short on time so I just unplugged my Klipsch floorstanding speakers from my 20 years-old-cheapest-of-the-store Kenwood amplifier in the living room and used the wires for the Bloodhound. I was quite underwhelmed with the sound quality. It felt very "light" with almost no bass. The highs were piercing and too present for my taste. I did not like what I heard. That was a bit disappointing to say the least.
Later. I took the time to plug them on my work desk where they should be. I am running a Loxjie D30 DAC with a simple SMSL Audio SA-36A amplifier. The difference was mind blowing. It went from "meh..." to "wow!".
The sound is much more pleasing to the ear. The highs are not piercing anymore, they feel just right and precise. The mids are pleasing and the bass, while not powerful, are tight and not overwhelming, which I really like.
I need to unplug them now and work on the sanding and finishing. I am going with oil. I will post some pictures once they are done.
Yes I did chamfer the backside, I even have proof :
I left some non chamfered area for the screws to have wood to bite into. I might have left a bit too much though.
I left some non chamfered area for the screws to have wood to bite into. I might have left a bit too much though.
Damn, it is already glued!
When I did the chamfer my router bit was set a bit too high so it went too far into the wood, I didn't want risking breaking the edge and ruin the piece.
Anyone has an idea how to cut a chamfer from the outside?
When I did the chamfer my router bit was set a bit too high so it went too far into the wood, I didn't want risking breaking the edge and ruin the piece.
Anyone has an idea how to cut a chamfer from the outside?
I've used a rasp to chamfer from the outside. It wasn't as peretty as using the router. but it worked very well.
Yes I might do just that.
I looked online for "inverted chamfer bits" and variations but it seems to be very exotic router bits.
Thanks for the tip!
I looked online for "inverted chamfer bits" and variations but it seems to be very exotic router bits.
Thanks for the tip!
Done!
Took about an hour to do both so it was easier and faster than I thought.
Thanks for the tip guys!
Took about an hour to do both so it was easier and faster than I thought.
Thanks for the tip guys!